Vie in Eastern Ontario

Start on 'La Soufriere' and traverse on crimps to finish on 'The Boogeyman'.

Video on yves Instagram

https://youtu.be/Pd9OQkDX9Yc

Open Project. Climbs straight through the huge roof. Bring every tool in the toolbox for this project.

Psyched! AKA Yves's project on the nine-tenths boulder. Finally sent this masterpiece! One of my favourite climbs to date! Been working this one on and off for the past few years. Starts with a left hand undercling and right hand low on the arrete. Very hard compression boulder problem on a beautiful arrete. (Yves's description from 8a.nu account)

*Some recent repeats (Samuel T., JF Reid) suggest a downgrade with a grade closer to 11/12.

Climb the thin crack towards the huge roof. Climb through the roof while trying to open an elevator door on bad crimps while being upside down. Hit the lip and pray your core hits in. Then crimp your way through the vertical top.

On main trail just behind Tsunami in North Africa.

Small crimps move up to arete... see video

https://youtu.be/ORhAK1xYP_k

At the end of the video the stand of the project is there (the Boogeyman). Left hand on crimp and right hand on right crimp (same hold has la soufriere)

https://www.instagram.com/p/COtwS8IDOSE/?igshid=1b389p12uojcs

Needs topo and description. See guidebook.

Start as for Coward's Way Out. After the third clip, continue straight up through the steep overhang, past 3 bolts before re-joining CWO.

https://youtu.be/_1wrTLcZFC8?t=181

Left of Rabbit Hole. Super good hard route potential up the face. Climb to the undercling and then work the face

Very tricky beta for the first half of the route. Then the huge roof becomes even more smoke and mirrors non sense.

Climb the arete until you hit the crux where a Jetpack is needed to hit a reach hold on the face

Follow overhanging face up to roof. Power thought the roof to the anchor.

Big roof with just enough holds to make this route possible.

Equipper- Joe Skopec

Same start Dr. Jekyll, but goes left at the third bolt. Sadly this climb is easier climbing to a very hard Boulder problem. A Horrible pinch arete and super small crimps guard the crux.

Climb up to the huge roof. Traverse left under the roof where the final crux awaits. Finish off on Iago's Roof.

Climb the bolt line right of "Beam Me Up Scotty".

This route is a bit of a legend. Known to be led by a certain bold and strong lad. The legend is as follows. Start on Camisole Cusp. When you finish the first steep section and the short left traverse, keep going left of the bolts. Continue up on really small gear.

Climb the overhanging face at the left end of the cliff on small underclings and sidepulls with bad feet. First climbed in the early 80s and is unrepeated. Grade not verified.

Start up the bolts at the left end of the roof, then follow the bolts along the roof to exit out the right side.

Starts to the left of Vulcan Mind

Start on small arete under roof. Out to an edge and then left. Topout high right side.

Start far left on sidepull. Move right on horizontal seam and up.

Start on the obvious sloping ledge and climb up to the lip.

Similar to 'The High Road' but follow the lower sloping rail instead of the lip.

Grade has been fluctuating a lot, but word on the street is that with the improved beta (foot jam) it's around V7/V8, depending on reach. Without the foot jam the grade is more around V8/V9. Either way, enjoy this sick problem!

Start just right of Fast Dreams, just left of a ramp (often wet). Climb straight up the face, staying just left of the wet ramp. A series of underclings leads to a very hard boulder crux. Continue up and left through tricky 5.11 climbing to the lower off.

Ride the Arete. A boulderers dream route!

Climbs the first 4 bolts of the route going towards the roof, but then follow the bolts going left on the jug traverse. Then finish on Iago's Roof.

Shared start with Chewbaka. Head up toward chain draw. Head up passed two bolt station and finish at the end of Chewbaka.

Grade awaits confirmation.

Shares the same start as Technical Jazz, but goes right at the first bolt. If you thought Technical Jazz hands had small holds, then you will be stoked to touch even smaller crimps on this blank face. Another classic Vertical climb

Shares the first few moves with Vulcan Mind, but instead of traversing right, continues directly up the face above.

Start as Brutus. Head right and up.

On the north side, climb just left of the right arête to a really bad set of side pulls and underclings. Proceed onto the face, gunning for the ledge underneath the top block. Finish up the block and top out.

Traverse along the roof starting on the sloping rail in the bottom right of the cave and link-up with 'Yellow Fever'.

A lower start to 'Twisted by Design' using the undercling under the roof.

Start down and right of the first bolt and slowly trend left. Clip the big chain on the roof, which guards the first crux, but a few more boulder problems await you before the anchors.

Probably the smallest crimps at the cliff that just slowly become smaller and smaller. Route named after grigri was not properly locked in during the FA. Always do your safety checks

If top roping, use the anchor far back from the edge, you'll need a long rope for this. Do the first moves of Deliverance, then traverse right past the sketchy block (make sure your belayer is well clear). Dyno to the feature at the lip, then get super tech going up the face above with the mini dihedral. Great moves. It's been sent on gear.

Easier start to a no hands rest, which leads to the final boulder problem before the anchors.

Starts just left of Fred's Folly, goes up an overhang (gear) to a crimpy and difficult-looking finish on 3ish bolts above.

Climb the Vertical black face. Full of small crimps, lay backs, and small feet.

Continue past the lower offs for Twinkie. Above, steep powerful moves lead to a thrilling top out. Avoid extra slack in the belay at the first crux.

A short, fingery route. Climb easily up to the undercling to make the first clip. Hard moves and a difficult second clip. Grade awaits confirmation.

If you continue along the cliff past the "Calabogie Sunset" face, you will come to another large roof near the top of the cliff.

This climb goes up a set of bolts near the left edge of the roof to anchors at the top.

Shares the first 6 bolts of Sugar and Spice, but goes left after the Lip. Extending some draws is highly recommended. Another 3 star route at Skywalk!

Starting on the underclings to the right of 'Sahara'.

Left hand on nasty crimp, right hand on arete and ok crimp. Top out using heel hook or feet on the wall. Grade needs confirmation. Basically 1 hard move. It's the end of the V5 isn't it?

Video for starting holds

https://youtube.com/shorts/HKl136Y32WA?feature=share

Sit start in the cave matched on the lowest flat rail below the blocky jug. Climb up and out of the cave.

Move into 'Beautiful Odyssey' from a much lower start. Begins on a ledge to the bottom right.

Use crimps to climb direct up boulder to apex

SDS on the glory jugs with a great right heel. Fire out to the small, sloping crimp and then the decent sloper rail. Find a way to the top of the prow. Bad Landing. Est V5.

Start on the rail and reach. Grade highly height dependent.

Sit start at the base of the obvious left facing corner. Climb it! Key foothold broke (again...) (originally V8).

Easier from left to right. Start on Deliverance and traverse right along the base of the overhang. Go past Testicular, around the corner down low, and finish on jugs just before it becomes dangerous. Go there and back again for a solid 5.12-5.13 burn. Some fun variations exist going up to the ledge at various spots on the corner. Downclimb from these beside testicular.

Start just left of “Smoke and Mirrors”. Same start as the roof open project, but at the third fix draw continue to traverse through the steam of jugs. Links into “ Iago Roof”. Super fun jug pulling!

Closed route - pictographs.

Stick clip first and second bolt! Sustained climbing all the way though the notch in the roof.

Start up and move right into crack and thin seam. Follow bolts up into and though roof. Sustained.

A 60m rope will (just) make it to the the bottom of the Laboratory at Tech Quilla from these anchors.

The mega line and it doesn’t get much better. Great climbing that does not let up right to the lip.

Meander your way up easy slab climbing to an obvious crux. Keep it together and finish through classic roof pulling.

Shares the start of Duck Feet for the first two bolts, then goes left following the Arête. Joins with Duck Feet at the top again. Some fun compression climbing!

4 bolt warm up, then 5 bolts of power endurance through the left leaning crack and roof.

Start below an obvious flake at the left edge of the steep, clean wall. Climb the flake then move right to a short left - facing corner/seam. Climb through a hard and reachy boulder problem up and right before moving back left. Continue up the vertical wall to the lower off.

Good resistance climbing. Stick clip a high first bolt. A puzzling sequence leads to sustained climbing and a pumpy finish.

Start right hand side on a jug and head up.

Around the right side of the slab

Start on right side of arete and move up then to left aete.

Start on undercling. Up and left on slopers.

Start in cave. Move to and fire to the lip and finish I'll Be Back.

Start with your left hand on the good edge of "Line 1" / "Nemesis" and your right on a side-pull edge. Move right to the small crimps in the horizontal crack, then work up the sloper rail.

The large jug and the side-pull of "Line 3" are out.

Sit Start with a left hand on a good incut crimp and left hand on a bad sidepull. Using the 2 Good crimps above the start holds make your way right using a very small crimp/pinch on the face and topout as per Razor Flakes. A hard eliminate.

Sit start with left hand on a small but positive 2 finger hold under the graffiti and right hand on the small crimp as Razor Flakes. Make a hard left hand move to the slot and finish as per Razor Flakes, you can also finish left for the other variation.

Start as per Styrofoam but eliminating both top rails, traverse the whole boulder using small crimps with a tricky sequence in the middle. Topout as per Frosted Razor Flakes

SDS in middle and work sidepulls and smears right. Gain seam and make a huge reach to lip. Arete is out. Open Project.

Stand start on razorblade crimps. Gain arete and top out at the top of the boulder.

Start matched on a sloper on the blunt arete on the back of the boulder. Top out directly above.

Start right end of the roof. Head left and up.

SDS on good jug. Climb the prow.

SDS under roof. Get your mantel on.

SDS right of Robloxian. Topuot via notch on right.

SDS on crimp-sidepull, get the pink and head up. V-Harder than I can guess.

Left of Line Rider on crimp. Travers into Line Rider.

Start right of Orbital Insertion with your left hand on the sloping lip and right hand on a sidepull edge. Make a couple of hard moves up the blunt arete

Start in the lowest flake and moove up on crimps. Get a right heel hook and reach the holds of your choice for topout. Left arete is out.

Start on a small high crimp where the boulders meet. Climb left through the sloped lip and top out at the apex of the overhang.

Squat start in the cave with right hand on a good undercling and left hand with a sidepull around the corner. Emerge from the cave and climb up the face. The stand start goes at around V2.

Start as 'Tsunami' and climb onto the left slab to top out.

Sit start matched on the lowest edge and move up.

Needs topo and description. See guidebook.