Vie in Halton Region

Climb up blocky ledges to a slabbier head wall.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Start 3m left of the obvious Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Climb up flakes to and crack to an overhang. Pull over the bulge (crux) and up the headwall to anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Climb the right-facing crack and corner system on the right side of the overhangs.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

Climb to a bolt under a roof, traverse left, up onto the face, then right around the blunt arete and up to the anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

The line just a few meters right of Zoomba. Rings at the top

Or starts right at the red #25 marker. (about mid-way between Spring Thaw (#19) and "Curved Chimney Descent" (#20A), or about 20m from either.)

Climb the bolted slab on generally good holds to a steeper finish.

Two rings for lower-off.

Start below a small, loose looking cave right of Judy's. Climb up following bolts past the cave.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Same line as Exposure with bolts slightly to the right of the trad line.

Starts a few meters right of Foxtrot (rightmost bolted line). Rings at the top.

The bolted crack 2m left of Charleston. Climb the large flakes.

4M left of zoomba

This is the rightmost route on the Iguana Wall. Starts up the crack. Make your way to the top on small edges and crimps.

As of 2016, this route has been bolted from the ground up. There is no need to place trad gear for the first third of the climb.

Climb the right bolt line sharing initial bolts with '99 Bottles of Beer', then finish out the jutting rock at the top of the pinnacle.

Start with some moderate climbing to a high first bolt just above a small cave feature. Continues on small crimps and ledges to a few nice cracks and finishes with nice big victory jugs at the anchors.

Climb to the ledge to the bolt between the two trees. The crux is about 2/3 up the route, making it a bit of a hard endurance push for climbers working the grade. Ledge can also be gained from far left by Stand & Deliver.

The first bolted route on your right (climber's left) at the bottom of 'Alfred's Gully'. Very polished, making the whole route feel much harder (and scarier) than 5.9. Had an extra bolt added to the bottom circa 2011 to prevent a runout to the second bolt with groundfall potential.

Formerly the "easiest" sport climb at Nemo and many peoples first lead. Often moist in humid weather.

This sport route climbs the main wall kitty corner to the pinnacle. Heads up and over the small roof to a two-bolt anchor at a large jug.

Look for an obvious dirty red streak down from the top of the cliff -- climb up to and through this streak.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Starts left of number 22D. Has a new bolt next to an old piton. Top out where you see the horizontal tree trunk.

-- marked as a 5.8 in the guide

Starts at number 45.

Climb the obvious left-facing flake and crack system up to a ledge with cedars, then up the crack above to 3 glue-in bolts for lower off.

Steep and sustained for its grade.

One of the best climbs of its grade at Nemo. Start on blocks on the right hand side of the main Cat's Tail wall, just left of a bush on the small ledge. Stick-clipping the first bolt is recommended.

More fun than Swiss Cheese

Starts at number 33.

5 bolts to hanging rings.

Bolted route just left of Positron, starts around the corner, then goes up the steep, thin, head wall left of Positron's flake system.

Left of the Fire Escape

Amphitheatre Ledge Area.

Bolted in 2019. Thanks, OAC!

Gain the easy ledge and follow the bolts on the right. Relatively easy for the grade but fun.

Retrobolted with FA permission.

Starts about 10m left of plate 88.

Nice traverse about half way up to a pointy jug.

Bolted line near the far east part of the crag. Climb greasy jugs until about half way, after which the rock quality gets a bit better. Anchor: 2 bolts + rap rings.

More bolts have been added and the route is no longer runout.

Climb up blocky terrain to an overhanging arete that leads to easier holds. Try to avoid going into the corner and using the tree.

Located on the main cliff a little ways left of the pinnacle are two bolt lines that start in a small cave. This is the right of the two bolt lines. Bolted. There are now sport anchors (rap rings) at the top.

This is the bolted line left of Big O Tree (a bit left of the painted number 13), and is located under the lookout.

This route is equiped with lower off cold shuts.

One 5.8 section requires some thinking, the rest is just a nice warmup.

Variant of Ice Castle Plus. Starts to the right, then continues to shared anchor.

Bolted 2019. Thanks, OAC!

Crimpy, balancy face climbing.

Starts at number 23B.

Former trad line, bolted in 2019. Thanks, OAC!

harder (11- or 11 -- more so for short people) if you don't use what remains of the tree after the 2013 xmas ice storm.

Starts 1m left of plate 89, at the arete. Scaryish start to first bolt, but it's actually pretty safe. Real meat of the route is after the 2nd bolt - have fun with pulling that roof!

Best done as a multipitch route. Start at the No. 2 and climb the flakes and underclings up onto a large ledge. Belay here and climb up and traverse left around the face until you hit the nice dihedral. Climb this to the top.

Blocks up to a large ledge.

Or, continue up to second set of anchors past the roof (the end of Be A Mentor).

New for 2019. Thanks, OAC!

Climb the blocks to a nice finger sized crack. Pleasant jams lead up the crack to big jugs around the anchors. Pro is fantastic in the crack but practically non-existent for the first 25' (easy easy 5th class)

Uneven route with 2 bolts' worth of 10c at top and bottom each of the grade, easier in middle. Falling while making the 2nd clip too high is close to groundfall (always clip from the jug!) - maybe stick clip it. Sometimes wet in key pockets at bottom. New bolt added in middle to protect groundfall from ledge 2/3up summer 2015.

Left of the Chemist Returns

The 5.8 trad section is now bolted to the ground, separate from Train in Vain. Thin face climbing, good rests and many, many liebacks.

A fun climb with a number of roofs to pull. Start slightly left of the painted number 11B and a curving tree which leaves the ground growing horizontally.

Anchors are 2 shunts that you can clip and lower off on. Do not top rope on them, hang draws instead please.

Follow the broken crack system, being careful about the wedged but worryingly movable, dark coloured block about 3m up. Upon reaching the large vertical crack either go straight up on easy to miss but great holds, or traverse right around the corner for a more technical and less exciting finish.

Quick and easy route. Good for newbs.

Amphitheatre Ledge Area.

Bolted 2019. Thanks, OAC!

Shares bolts with More Than Three Is A Crowd.

Located on the main cliff a little ways left of the pinnacle are two bolt lines that start in a small cave. This climbs the left of the two bolt lines. After the first bolt stay left and use the monopocket for the 10a/10b experience. Otherwise move right to find good holds in the thin crack for an easier variation. Continue straight up past the third bolt, being sure to stay right of the dead tree, until the top.

Bolted. There are now sport anchors (rap rings) at the top.

Starts from the "A" Dance Ledge (to the left of the gully) which has two bolts + rap rings to belay from. Climb the bolted line about 1 m to the left (leftmost of the three bolted routes). Two rings for lower-off.

Last bolted route on the cliff.

One of Nemo's best climbs at the grade. This is the bolted line a couple of meters right of Cat's Tail. Climb the face right of the arête, and the face above, until you can get a closer look at the large roof. Take a deep breath. Exit the roof using the obvious crack. Fight the pump to the top.

Climb the easy ledges and cracks to a high step up onto the top. A great first trad lead with plenty of options for gear and numerous good stances.

Start at number 13 and climb up the corner until the roof, then move right to the large corner. Avoid the loosely attached large, dark-coloured rock to the left. Belay from there then climb the corner and follow the gully out.

Both Korn-erred and Nice Bulge share nearly the same start with Korn-erred being the left option that follows a more prominent crack system with a more overhung start.

Alternative start may include stemming up the boulder

High first bolt to the left of the two trees. Even throughout for the grade, with multiple different types of cruxy elements. Delicate traverse on small holds, awkward balancy mantel, small crimp face climbing.

A bit shorter than Right Popsicle Twin. This is the first route left of the big corner (the popsicle twins and Vuvuzela are on the wall at climber's right).

Start at number 48. Climb the cracks beneath a large roof up and left past the roof. Continue up and left to the top.

This route does not have anchors, although if you go right at the top, you can use the anchors from 'Reg's Route'.

Start at number 22C. Climb the thin cracks up the middle of the inside of the pinnacle.

7m left of Charleston. Keep to the right.

Bolted line (glue-ins) to the left of Cobwebs. Anchor: rap rings

Cave Ledge Area (starts just below the ledge on the right side).

New for 2019. Thanks, OAC!

Start beneath a pillar just climbers left of the stairs. Climb easy moves up to the top of the pillar, beneath a large roof. Pull the roof either by using the cracks to the right or a secret hold found deep in a hole in the roof on the left. Continue up to the top with easier moves.

Start at number 4D. Rebolted as a sport route in 2019.

Climb up to a large ledge to find the anchors for Find A Mentor. Continue up to second set of anchors past the roof.

New for 2019. Thanks, OAC!

Just left of the must tick classic Camel. Thunder Road is shorter with fun climbing and a layback crux.

Referred to as "Medium" in David Smart's 1988 Edition of Ontario Limestone.

Alternative 5.8 starting to climber's right

Climb carefully up onto a large ledge below a crack. Step up to make a high first clip and then make a strong instep to a layback. Continue up and to the right to go over the roof. Finish on a large ledge, using the top-rope bolts for an anchor. There are some old and highly corroded bolts at the top of the cliff which should probably be avoided.

(Retrobolted with FA permission.)

Start below an obvious short hand crack above an overhang about 3m up. Climb the blocks to the overhang, and climb the crack to the top.

Start at the plaque to the right of 8C. Climb the layback crack, moving slightly right just underneath a small overhang and continue up.

The bolts left of Thank Mr. Goose.

Starts 2m left of "So Good". Climbs the face with the anchors over the big ledge. Continue past the anchors to climb the extension variation at 5.10d.

Starts 5m right of number 10a.

Climb up the finger crack (bring smaller nuts and cams) and eventually you will have to traverse left of the roof. Climb a little higher and you will find a rusty piton and a rusty bolt on a ledge. Belay from here to avoid rope drag. Traverse right from the belay and climb to the right of the cedar to finish.

Start at number 22A. Climb up and left, following the cracks in the middle of the pinnacle to the top.

Start at #21 (the number fell off). Climb blocks to small overhang then face above.

Pumpy overhanging bouldery problem. Key pockets sometimes wet under roof. Split off left to Live Bait or right to ledge for As You Like it to finish.

Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment.

Great climbing - tough onsight - hidden holds! Good moves and varied climbing through dark streaks in the rock. Nice long route. Steep and pumpy. Probably one of the best 11s in Ontario! Leftmost route on this wall. Coldshuts at top, difficult to clean due to 20' overhang (better to 2nd).

Bolted route about 10m right of Camel, where a thin crack/groove goes through steep ground lower down, then angle left to an obvious left-pointing flake, pull up through this, and over to an anchor.

Retro-bolted recently (with permission), was a "5.9+" trad route.

Start at number 51, at a small corner. Climb up past a couple pockets via cracks to the top.

The start is a bit hidden behind cedar trees.

This finishes on a wide grassy ledge -- need a gear anchor. To the right across the ledge is a double-bolt rap anchor that can be used for the descent.

Formerly a good 5.9 trad route until a key hold broke off rendering this a 5.10c one move wonder. Easily gain the big ledge, left of the tree. Following the bolt line to the left, go through a couple easy 5.7 moves to two closely spaced bolts. Figure a way through the crux and finish up and to the right. There are several options for anchors, the easiest being to use the rap rings on 'Crawling on Glass'

Retrobolted with FA permission.

Starts at number 9. Starts in a groove and climbs roughly straight up with good gear and holds. Polish at the beginning makes it feel harder than 5.4.

Bolted. Left-most line of bolts, just right of the sign

Start at number 11.

Start 2m right of 'The 5.3 Right of Median'.

Starts on a solid layback for the first few bolts and then moves to a more technical slab near the top.

use 2 alpine draws to reduce drag!