Vie in Europe aperta fra 2024-04-21 e 2024-04-28

Abstieg westwärst möglich (15min). Alternativ Opferkarabiner. Route aktuell noch leicht mit losen Steinen.

Descent westward (15min). Alternativ leave a carabiner. Currently some lose rocks.

Nice crimpy climb

Bürste notwendig!

3m rechts der "Variante zur Baumschule" Wand zu Absatz. Seichte Rinne linkshaltend (SU,große SU,R,SU) zu großem Absatz und Wandstufen gerade zum Band des "Gratweges". Wie dieser zu Nische und links außerhalb (2 Bäumchen) feine Rissspur und kurzen Übertritt zum Gipfel.

Sitzstart an Zangengriff unter dem Dach, dann Querung nach links und über "Kokolorix" aussteigen.

Videolink: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug71NXleEHg

Az út eleje megegyezik a Smooth Operator (6b+) nevű úttal annak standjáig, majd egy szép áthajlással folytatódik, ami közös rész az Ypszilon Cuvée úttal. Az áthajlás kimászása után egy "Y" elágazás jön. Ez az út balra halad tovább a felső áthajláshoz. Itt jön a legnehezebb kunszt. A fogások nem túl kényelmesek:-). Magas mászóknak lehet inkább 6c+, alacsonyabbaknak 7a.

The start of the root is shared with Smooth Operator (6b+) till its top anchor, then continues with a nice overhang which is shared with the route Ypszilon Cuvée. Above the first overhang you find an Y junction. This route continues to the left heading to a bigger overhang wich is the crux of the route. Holds here won't be the best friends of your fingers. For tall climbers maybe 6c+ only or easy 7a. For shorter mates a 7a.

HE; Stand up on a 2-3mm white crystal while holding decent crimps. Easy top out.

HE; Stand up with the right foot on a pink crystal near the bottom of the rock, and then put your left foot on a sloped dark crystal. A more demanding top out.

Not done with perfect beta, feels like a hard 6b

to the left of Compresionant

Short powerful route.

A few important holds have broken and changed the grade significantly. Starts on a sharp pinch with the left and the undercling on the right (sit start). Beautiful route that has a bit of everything.

It might be an easier 7b though.

Recommended gear: small offset friends, offset nuts, an optional cliff

Pitch 1: start from right of Mielul cel bland, on the right side of a chimney, then head upwards and slightly left. Slightly runout before the belay

Pitch 2: head straight up then traverse upward left, under an arch. Pass the overhang (crux of the route, estimated at 7a free) and traverse slightly left on a ledge before heading right to the second belay of Cotofana

Good holds and bouldery style

SD Sitzstart ganz an der rechten Ecke bei Einstieg von 4, Traverse tief, Ausstieg ganz links über 1