Ascensioni in Lussemburgo come vari tipologie da Tobias Auth

Awesome route! 3rd go send. Low end 7b if you're tall.

Beta (Mostly to remind myself): First crux reachy and awkward but easy enough to still do it. Crucial foothold beta by Steffen: Foothold 10cm above the big undercling jug for the left foot for matching the edge. Right foot far right to shift sideways to the first hole. Mediocre foothold for the left and high foot way out right to push left to the 2nd hole. That hole (the smaller, hourglass shaped part of it) with left index and thumb, turned in, standing on the edge matched before w/ the left foot and reaching up w/ right hand to a decent rail. Dyno with high right foot and going with the left. Almost fell after sticking it. 2 more jugs to the anchor. #sportRP

Pretty epic! The non-eliminate felt massively run-out in one spot. Balancy top part with the right-hand edge. After not climbing on sandstone for some time I wasnt used to these tiny, sloping footholds. Grade at the time was 7a.

OS go was reeally good but there is a not onsight friendly section close to the top. Glad that I got my QDs back because I struggled to do the first move 2nd go and smashed into the ledge several times while repeatedly falling into the first QD. Just skin damage though. Wasn't sure about foot beta for the first move. Maybe my max strenght for the first hold was just gone. Solved it 2nd go by using a even higher hold to the left of the crimp rail. I also followed the big holds to the left at the 2nd last draw. Going direct there looked a tad hard. #sportRP

5th go of the season! Sticking the last dyno felt incredible! #sportRP

Videolink: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ovx7OlwO9qE

2nd go. Burly but not as tricky as I expected. #sportRP

Send!! First route of the day. Also put the QDs in. Hyped. — Seems to be quite condition dependant. My skin was quite worn but grip was good and even though I only warmed up with resistance bands, I could hold on to everything well. 6c to the resting point above the slopers. Then lock-off strength to reach the good crimp. Clipping next QD late from a sidepull pocket (maybe shoulder/ gaston). Then the friction foothold left around the arête to reach for the top holds. Actually ok as a warmup or 2nd route. #VVV

First go of the day after working the route for the first time yesterday! Crux beta by Micha worked perfectly for me. My first 7a RP. #sportRP

Long, varied and photogenic! Never gave a route so many attempts so far. 2 trips, 3 days, about 8 attempts. After redpointing it, I thought it was way more technical than it was physical. #sportRP

What a dream of a climb!, Brushed the crux and put two draws in from Felyane. First go of the day! Clipped the anchor from below the mantle so it would be nice to repeat it without the high anchor clip. #sportRP

Finally! After jumping off from quite high I did it 2nd try of the day. A tough one to "real redpoint". Of course I forgot all the beta and had to fight and scream my way up. Glad that it worked out. Would be nice to repeat it next year in a more casual style. (Now that I know how to do the start, haha.) #sportRP

#repeat

RP using just the lower of the two crack. #sportRP

Felt easy now. Chain clip after sloper finish felt rewarding. #VVV

Really deserves the two stars in the guidebook. Fun first crux, a rare Berdorf run-out and another harder crux that is hard to reverse once you're in it. Only just did it. On the harder side of 6c+. At least for onsighting.

#repeat but used the big flake at the height of the 2nd crux. Tried the moves more straight ahead, after building a top rope and got these after 2 or 3 trieds. Would be fun to re-send properly next time. Running out of doable routes in Berdorf though.

Low first crux on a sloper, easier moves on jugs in the overhang, delicate slab to the anchor.

Big moves onto a perfect slab with small holds and cool, technical moves. Straight forward vertical wall with a tricky move to skip a blank section and a better-than-it-looks crimp right before the final mantle. For me the more beautiful one of the "6c twins".

Some beta and draws by Alex.

The start was dry today. Powerful first half. Surprised that I didn't fall off at one point.

Non-eliminate flash.

2nd go send. First crux way more relaxed now and second crux doable with correct beta and tape on the right middle finger for the sharp, deep mono. Super good route! Still tough for the grade and hard on the fingers. #sportRP

Ego booster. Felt very easy today. After doing "Tempête" every hold felt like a jug.

2nd go resend after getting the right beta for the top crux. First crux probably significantly easier for me because I can reach the thumbcatchy hold statically from the sidepull hueco.

Top crux beta: [Far left gaston into sidepull-pocket, adjust feet for layback, clip, rest right hand, right crimp of double slot for right hand (don't match this hold later), left foot onto big foothold rail, left crimp further up, right foot high or pull-up to get foot even higher, lockoff again to reach into the slot on the ledge with right hand.]

2nd go of the day.

Finally! After looking at the crux again and ticking two crucial holds. Probably the 15th time I attempted. #sportRP

Crux high up involves the arete and some tiny holds on the slightly off-vertical wall.

#repeat warm-up

#VVV

#repeat after Sophia tried it in TR.

The fragile rock made this exciting for the wrong reasons. Didnt really want to commit to the lock off above the bulge but eventually did it. Broke a foothold higher up. Bolts look suspicious too but maybe the new topo will clarify what these are. Will improve with traffic Id guess.

Found a good solution for the first moves that I remembered as stiff from doing the 6a to the right. One committing move at mid height.

Rad moves through the steep overhanging corner, nice and easy slab and a committing move above. I used a alpine draw draw for the high first bolt and a long draw for the 2nd bolt to reduce rope drag.

Nice and long climb with pockets and slopers. One part where you need to plan ahead to not go into a dead end. #VVV

My first try was in 2016.

Wow! This wall is just incredible. Super enjoyable jug pulling after passing the crack. Finishes with a delicate slab.

Did this after having done La Plage Left some time ago and wasn't too sure where to go at the very top. 3 anchors very close to each other. But this makes the OS streak of the wall complete. yay

Fun! Techy traverse, pumpy finish. Last moves felt a bit awkward. Pretty stiff as a warm-up. Only route for today because of rain.

Awesome to get it two years after my first try.

After going to far left at half height in first attempt the 2nd go was still demanding. Very nice route though! #sportRP

#repeat

Way better than expected. A hidden gem! The crux felt not too hard with a little bit of hip-flexibility.

Good, average Berdorf climbing. Used the arête.. Felt quite easy like that. Maybe one awkward spot.

Very cool and techy corner! Fun warm-up. Actually glad that I didnt fall. The left wall was quite damp at half height.

Resend/ #repeat 4 years after. Feels like a different route now. Classic!

Didn't feel like I was climbing well but it was enough to not fall. #repeat

#repeat

Retroflash/ basically onsight. Awesome route still. Only just made it. Happy to still never having clipped that piton. Friction almost back to normal. Hoping for better conditions for next time.

Send/ "onsight", 7 years after the first try.

Beautiful! Athletic start, then slightly overhanging on interesting holds, finish on slopers. Quite pumpy for the grade.

A striking line! Another long awaited redpoint two years after. I think there are at least 3 ways of doing the last bit. Went straight ahead this time.

Never realized that this wall is so high! I'm sure I'll do this one again. Would make a classy warm-up. Last route of this Berdorf trip.