Ascensioni in Mount Pleasant

Climbed through the crux smoothly only to fall at the top on sun greased slopers. Will return in better conditions!

Wow, I was not expecting to pull this one off today, thought I’d start working it as a winter project. Had the first bolt pre-clipped so could have been better style, but I don’t really care tbh. Awesome moves the whole way, what I’d expect Peak District grit to be like.

Got it mostly worked out but still stumped at one move. Very stiff for 26, even on TR! Will be interesting to figure out how to protect it.

Got it all sorted, gear included. Will be back soon to lead.

Done on pre-placed gear, so could have been better style and maybe I’ll return for a proper red point one day. Gear would be finicky to place on lead, but possible. I climbed to the right of the topo line, not sure how most do it. It’s easier this way, but also protectable without top roping half the route or soloing. Happy to subtract a point or two, as it’s still a cracker of a line.

Looks like couple crimps have broken off just before you get into the crack?

Wow this thing feels nails! Very techy and balancey, with a burly crux. Epitomises bouldering on a rope. Looking forward to putting it together.

Got up to the bolt fairly easily this time, but still haven’t sorted the mantle.

Gave it a go ground up, but wasn’t confident about the tiny gear. Glad I tested it, as the first piece promptly pulled when I weighted it. Will be back to suss on TR.

Took a few goes to sort out the beta. Initially felt very hard, but on the send was almost trivial. Hard to grade. Probably a V3 boulder problem, quite balancey and sequential.

Feels about V3/V4 so maybe 23/24?

Powerful crack climbing, brilliant and very much a unicorn for the Port Hills. Good gear but also rather finicky in places.

Unsend, even with the top rope! Forgot the sequence, then remembered it. Also sorted out gear beta. Will be back for a go on the sharp end next visit.

Quite a unicorn for NZ: an actual crack, with actual jams, good rock, and no bolts. Packs a lot into 14m! Will be back for the proper red point, gear is good but sometimes finicky.

Some good moves in there, but would be quite dangerous to lead so will probably be happy with a TR ascent.

Climbed a slight variant, also good fun.

Very cool delicate climbing - unfortunately the wind got a little bit too wild for me. Would be very fun to get back on.

Probaby a touch soft, the way I climbed it anyway. It does suit my style though. The climb is somewhat let down by the intial moves to get established onto the arete, on subpar rock. The rest is really good. Draws on but placed the gear, not that it makes any difference.

Top rope tough guy day, sussing out some new lines for future headpoints. Adequate gear on this one, but quite finicky so hard to place on lead.

Almost flashed on TR, had one fall coming out of the pod. Really fun climbing, quite keen to return to lead this one.

Not the best style, but the gear is quite finicky and felt heads up to place on lead. Happy with the pink point for now, but may be back to do it properly.

Made it a lot harder than necessary on the onsight, went easily second go. Pretty fun and balancey.

Warm up lap to get gear sorted on Gruse.

Fell at the bottom, lowered, and sent to the top placing gear. A hard boulder on hand jamBs and a committing top on RPs. What’s not to like?

A decent variation, but wouldn’t want to fall from the top on lead.

Very hard, very bold.

A fun boulder problem, but hard to give it a star given the short length and lack of an anchor.

Actually really fun once you figure out how to protect the start. Nice latter day addition.