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Ordina per: Modifica in blocco (max 100)

1 - 100 di 160 vie.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità Falesia
5 Gandalf
1 5 40m
2 5- 35m
3 5- 25m

A classic & the first route to dry on the wall

FA: Arild Meyer, 1978

Trad 100m, 3 Lofoten
5 Gollum
1 5
2 5-
3 5-

Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block.

FA: Arild Meyer & Sjur Nesheim, 1985

Trad 110m, 3 Lofoten
5+ Forsida
1 3+ 20m
2 4 16m
3 5 30m
4 5 30m
5 5+ 20m

FA: B.Bommen & B.Lyche, 1928

Trad 120m, 5 Lofoten
5+ Appelcake Arete
1 4+ 40m
2 5+ 20m

Start 1-2 meters left of the arete in the black/grey rock. Good protection. First belay on a small ledge beside the big roof over Lys og skygge's first pitch.

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik, Ed Webster, Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1991

Trad 60m, 2 Lofoten
5+ Lys og Skygge
1 5+ 25m
2 4+ 35m

FA: Ed Webster & Trond Solberg, 1991

Trad 60m, 2 Lofoten
5 Living in Paradise Trad 20m Lofoten
5 Rapellruta
1 5 28m
2 4+ 20m
Trad 48m, 2 Lofoten
5+ Liten kuling Trad 20m Lofoten
5+ Smeagul
1 5+ 40m
2 5+ 40m
3 5- 25m

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Smeagul starts left of the block, going up the tricky zig zag crack.

FA: Jonas Dahlstrup & Simon Svendsen, 2008

Trad 110m, 3 Lofoten
5+ Stiv kuling Trad Lofoten
5+ Child's play
1 5-
2 5
3 5+
4 5-

3 unique pitches, the last (4) is part of the Coley smoke.

FA: Michael Hayes & Graham Weston

Trad 130m, 4 Lofoten
5+ Høyre risset Trad 10m Lofoten
5+ Vestpillaren original starten
1 4 40m
2 5 40m
3 5+ 35m
4 4 20m

The original line up to the fixed Storhylla belay

FA: Arild Meyer & Brynjar Tollefsen, 1978

Trad 140m, 4 Lofoten
5 Orkan Trad Lofoten
5+ Frisk bris Trad Lofoten
5 Sea Breeze Trad Lofoten
5+ Escape to paradise Trad Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Masse tak Boulder Lofoten
5 Butter Fingers

Nice sequence of easy craks and a bit of slab.

Trad 30m Lofoten
5 Gun's and Gandalf
1 5
2 5-
3 5-

A nice alternative for anyone wanting to climb Gandalf with a pack

  1. As for Guns n' Roses (40m)

  2. As for Gandalf (35m)

  3. As for Gandalf (25m)

Trad 100m, 3 Lofoten
5+ Sterk kuling Trad Lofoten
5+ Lost Expressen

First pitch of Lost Gandalf, thereafter finish up ´Tromsø ekspressen´ final 2 pitches.

Trad 95m, 3 Lofoten
5+ Rom and Cola
1 5
2 5+
3 2
4 5
5 3
6 5+
7 5+
8 4

FA: Arild Meyer, 1977

Trad 320m, 8 Lofoten
5 Rock and roll slide Sportiva Lofoten
5 Foxy Lady Sportiva Lofoten
5 Big Belly Route Sportiva Lofoten
FB_ALT:4 Flaket Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Torskeryggen Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Nameless problem #10 Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Nameless problem #11 Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Nameless problem #12 Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Nameless problem #13 Boulder Lofoten
5+ Djupfjord Buttress

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1995

Trad 7 Lofoten
5+ Cant believe its not butter

Found on the left side of the "butter" boulder, when looking towards the sea. Offwith crack, with atletic start.

Trad Lofoten
5 Heavy Weather Trad Lofoten
5+ Ørneryggen
1 5
2 5+
3 3+

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993

Trad 100m, 3 Lofoten
5 Demonstranten direkte Trad Lofoten
5+ Slemgutt risset

FA: Kjell Ove Storvik & Kjell Skog, 1976

Trad Lofoten
5 Liten diagonal Trad 10m Lofoten
FB_ALT:4 Stigen Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Pullover Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Fyrglo Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4 At least I can swim Boulder Lofoten
5+ Tindstinden Trad 100m Lofoten
5+ Liten storm Trad Lofoten
5 Røyskatten

Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen.

FA: Kjetil Andersen & Philip C, 7 Ott 2019

Trad 30m Lofoten
5 Skårungens Dans Sportiva Lofoten
5+ Ant Line
1 5- 30m
2 5+ 40m
3 5- 15m

FA: Kjell Ove Storvik & Niels Poulsen, 1988

Trad 85m, 3 Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Hjörnerisset Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Lette Risset Boulder Lofoten
5 Gandalf's kamin
1 5 40m
2 4 20m
3 5- 50m

As for Gandalf, Gollum or Lost Gandalf then move over to the base of the orange chimney (kamin)

Trad 110m, 3 Lofoten
5+ Pianohandler Lunds drøm

FA: Sjur Nesheim & Kjell Ove Storvik, 1979

Trad 80m, 3 Lofoten
5+ Butt crack Trad Lofoten
5 Coley Smoke
1 4
2 5
3 5-
4 5-
  1. 30m

  2. 30m

  3. 30m

  4. 30m

FA: Nick Ashton, Glenn Henry & David Musgrove, 1998

Trad 120m, 4 Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Bare en til Boulder Lofoten
5+ Ant pillar extension Trad 90m, 2 Lofoten
5+ Ørneunge
Trad 3 Lofoten
5+ Ananasekspress
1 5+ 30m
2 5+ 30m

The most popular way to repeat these ´Top 50´ lines cherry picks the best protected and nicest climbing.

  1. Pitch 1 of Lys og Skygge goes up the ramp. Continue left under the roof to build a more comfortable belay on the arete.

  2. Takes the straight crack of Appelcake Arete up to a DBB. Descend via a free-hanging rapp (50m)

FA: Unknown

Trad 60m, 2 Lofoten
5 Værvarsel Trad Lofoten
FB_ALT:4 Til topps Boulder Lofoten
5 Krabbe Trad 10m Lofoten
FB_ALT:4 Baugetaket Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Ramp camp Boulder Lofoten
5+ Demon Rib Trad Lofoten
5 Jeg håper Scottys hus brenner ned

From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit.

FA: Vegard With Stennes & Philip C, 2 Ott 2019

Trad 35m Lofoten
FB_ALT:4 Ukjente hjørnet

The easy stemming/layback corner

Boulder Lofoten
5+ Lille veggen direkte Trad Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Første sva Boulder Lofoten
5 Stormvarsel Trad Lofoten
5 Queen of Rock 'n' Roll
Trad Lofoten
5+ Høstdrømmen

The first route on the cliff. Climb the flake then traverse right over a bulge. Nice jamming continues from here to the summit.

FA: Philip C & Vegard With Stennes, 2 Ott 2019

Trad 30m Lofoten
{FB} 4+ you know you want it

The chimney

Boulder Lofoten
5+ Luke Skywalker
1 5 35m
2 5+ 30m

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993

FA: Johan Sandberg & Truls Seines, 1993

Trad 65m, 2 Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Kjerktrappen Boulder Lofoten
5 Lemon squeezy

Located in the far right corner.

Sportiva 15m Lofoten
5+ Venus Passagen
Trad Lofoten
FB:4B Håndløs Boulder Lofoten
5 Frozen in Time Trad Lofoten
5+ The babysitter Trad Lofoten
FB_ALT:4 Syndere i sommersol Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4 Slaymark Boulder Lofoten
5+ Full storm Trad Lofoten
5 Stopp en Haal! Sportiva Lofoten
5 Fremdeles Tapir

FA: Jonas Dalstrup & Otto Romfro, 2009

Trad 2 Lofoten
5+ X-citing Trad Lofoten
5+ Right pillar Trad Lofoten
FB:4B Rissveggen Boulder Lofoten
5+ Baksida
1 4+ 24m
2 5+ 20m

FA: Bjørn Bommen & B.Lyche, 1928

Trad 44m Lofoten
5+ Shark Ride Trad Lofoten
5 One move wonder

Ascends up to Eastern ridge of Kvandalstinden. Marginally nicer to boulder hop your way here from Kalle (aiming for valley between Vågakallen/Kvandalstinden). The route starts up the boulder field on the right of a grassy ledge below a hand crack.

FA: Ted Ekberg & Ian Gough, 2012

Trad 6 Lofoten
5 Where Puffins Dare

Located on the wall across the gully from the guidebook routes. The route tackles the entire wall via slabs & dihedral climbing. The FAs suggest a single rack to #3 plus wires.

FA: David Kozak, 2017

Trad 370m, 10 Lofoten
FB:4B Fisherman´s Blues Boulder Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Nameless #2 Boulder Lofoten
5+ X-crement Trad Lofoten
5+ AID:A2 Todarodes Sagittatus Trad 200m, 5 Lofoten
FB:4B Hei og hå Boulder Lofoten
5+ AID:A1 Vegetarianeren
1 5 A1 40m
2 4 A1 35m
3 5- 35m
4 5+ 50m

FA: 1968

Trad 160m Lofoten
5 Tamnavulin Trad Lofoten
5 WI4 Første gang Su ghiaccio 5 Lofoten
FB_ALT:4+ Left slab Boulder Lofoten

1 - 100 di 160 vie.

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