Vie in Nordland del grado selezionato

A classic & the first route to dry on the wall

Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block.

Start 1-2 meters left of the arete in the black/grey rock. Good protection. First belay on a small ledge beside the big roof over Lys og skygge's first pitch.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Smeagul starts left of the block, going up the tricky zig zag crack.

3 unique pitches, the last (4) is part of the Coley smoke.

It´s 5 pitches to the last rapp station or 12 pitches to the summit

The original line up to the fixed Storhylla belay

Inner corner offers good 3D climbing. Lots of good holds.

A nice alternative for anyone wanting to climb Gandalf with a pack

1. As for Guns n' Roses (40m)

2. As for Gandalf (35m)

3. As for Gandalf (25m)

First pitch of Lost Gandalf, thereafter finish up ´Tromsø ekspressen´ final 2 pitches.

Nice sequence of easy craks and a bit of slab.

Found on the left side of the "butter" boulder, when looking towards the sea. Offwith crack, with atletic start.

Mixed route. Possible to abseil 2x 60 m ropes necessary for this, or walk off

The first route on the cliff. Climb the flake then traverse right over a bulge. Nice jamming continues from here to the summit.

As for Gandalf, Gollum or Lost Gandalf then move over to the base of the orange chimney (kamin)

Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen.

The easy stemming/layback corner

The most popular way to repeat these ´Top 50´ lines cherry picks the best protected and nicest climbing.

1. Pitch 1 of Lys og Skygge goes up the ramp. Continue left under the roof to build a more comfortable belay on the arete.

2. Takes the straight crack of Appelcake Arete up to a DBB. Descend via a free-hanging rapp (50m)

1. 30m

2. 30m

3. 30m

4. 30m

Some images here:

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Located in the far right corner.

The chimney

5 pitches to the last rapp station. Bail from here or continue to the summit via klubbruta

From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit.