Vie in Northern Norway del grado selezionato

Beta here

The caves classic moderate

Steep fingers & hands up the flake into a mantle and slab finish. Protection is fine despite the heart rating in the guidebook.

Bolted loweroff as of 2019 (possible to setup a TR)

Route description here

Starts right of Aetat via a rope ladder start. Shared lower-off.

Extension to Akantus.

1. (Different start than Kvaløya archives 2007 due to rock fall) Begin right of the big overhang 20 meters above the ground, under a small overhang. Pass the overhang on the right to a thin crack in a dihedral. Climb up the dihedral until you can traverse on big jugs to a dihedral on the left. Climb up this dihedral & continue straight up passing a small roof until you reach a belay under another small roof.

2. Traverse under the roof out to the right and climb up via thin cracks just right of the nose. Nice to belay on top of the nose (30m) or possible to continue. Traverse out right to a crack, climb up this crack & follow the easiest line to a slab with a portaledge bolt (25m).

3. Climb up low-angled narrow dihedral, becoming steeper and wider. Follow the crack till you reach a small slab at the bottom of the ship formation.

4. Climb the dihedral right of the ship until you reach a small bulge in the dihedral.

5. Continue through the dihedral. Climb out on the left wall through cracks, passing a small roof and following zig-zag cracks. After these head for the crack a bit right to lower-angled terrain until you reach the master ledge. Enjoy the view.

6. Climb up the right-leaning crack from the middle of the ledge. Traverse out right on jugs to a big crack. Follow this up, passing a wide crack (#4) until you reach a ledge. Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the ledge for another 10 meter and traverse out left to a big ledge. From here you can scramble out to the left and up to the summit.

Thanks to Aniek Lith for the updated information; There´s further beta in for summer and winter in her blog posts. The suggested Aid Rack-

Triple to quadruples from small to #1. Doubles #2 & #3, 1 x #4. Lots of small & medium sized nuts. One pecker might come in handy, but try to avoid it. In winter you’ll be happy with a lot of peckers and less cams.

Some images here-

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The first route up the West wall ascends the pillar left of the central grass line. The hard crux moves can be done at 7- A1.

Some images here-

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Lie-down start on low ledge, exit left.

A short, hard & frustrating crux between horizontal cracks punts off most takers

Sitstart. Follow the crack to the top edge.

DBB

Tackling the full height of Storpillaren, from the stiff lower slabs into natural corner systems. The line has now been freed a few times & is the obvious next step up from Storpillaren. Some bolted belays make retreats possible.

Recent ascent description

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The extension of Golden shower.