Ascensioni in Oceania da Michael Lehmann

Got the sequence to jug without pads, didn't want to commit to the top! Definitely deserves two stars.

Fell 4 times on the last move of the traverse, need to tweak the foot beta and body position.

Few more burns.

Dialled the entire sequence to the final move, a very committing Dyno off a bad crimp to the top out.

Seemed condition dependant. Had heaps of burns in warm weather that felt impossible, early morning light wind was the go!

First working sesh, 7a+ to a hard moonboard v4, then grade 25 to the top. Very sustained but moves felt more doable than No Pasaran.

Second tie in, 90% humidity, could hardly pull the moves with wet holds but managed to climb through the crux, had a rest then went to the top. Maybe the style works for me, but doesn't seem as tricky as No Pasaran.

Second lead attempt, I pre-placed gear, probably my whole rack. Wanted to try free on lead from the ground to big grassy with an aid crew. Rock was pretty out of condition in the sun. Still managed a high point, passed the crux, panicked and grabbed the draw instead of the send. Been choking on some of the runouts. Finished at the aid belay, flashed from there to the next belay, not sure of a grade for the short bit, maybe 25? Struggled up the next pitch from there to big grassy. Was absolutely cooked after 4 pitches!

Rapped in and led from grassy to below the roof, both great pitches. Preplaced gear for the 24, quite a nasty fall off the deck. The 22 was all time! Potentially the best 22 pitch I've done ever, a stellar day out.

Third go, great! Didn't realize it was unclimbed so assumed it was a recent route, apparently an old project 🤷

Today was a very special day, I managed to free the lower crux pitch to the aid belay. I heard a pop in one of my fingers cranking on a shallow pin scar and may have ruptured a pulley, still, incredibly stoked to get the send!! Will have to try to link it into the rest of the pitches from the ground next time!

First lead attempt with brad. Took at the piton then finished at aid belay.

Two big whippas, so, so wet! Condi's are a massive crux for this route.

Tried this after escape, struggled on the mono fingerlock move. Perhaps next time.

Potential new proj? Two V7 moonboard style boulder moves into a tricky mantle, hard as.

Another lead in bad conditions, wondering if I'll ever see the bottom free of spooge. Climbed clean to the crux and couldn't hold the slopers in full sun. Another time perhaps!

Finally opened the account on Mira Mira, had a promising first sesh. Managed to link all the moves into vanity in one sit. Hopefully next sesh!

Got the moves, definitely don't have the endurance! Something to work towards.

Opening the account, wet conditions in cloud after rain. Had a burn to figure out rope logistics. 200m rope almost touches the bottom!

Actually got all the moves! Wasn't sure if the movement would feel remotely possible. Not too bad lower down, flashed the free moves to about 15m, probably hard techy 23 to a good rest. Then 8m of maybe grade 26 sequencey stemming to a rest. The crux is 7m of desperately thin laybacking with poor feet. It feels goey and low percentage. Gear uses the good hand holds unfortunately, suppose that comes with the territory, definitely run out. The climbing is a lot less pumpy than I thought it would be, need strong legs for the rests though! Would be an absolutely phenomenal lead. I think there'll be a lot of large whips.

Had a go, very. Burly. Found working the crux overhang extremely difficult, probably needs a few whips on lead to get the sequence.

Couple more laps to get comfy with the moves and sequence, still feels like it will be a goey pink point. Definitely lacking the leg endurance, the ozy replicator on the home board has been doing wonders, sticking the crux Dyno consistently now. Want to have 1 more good sesh before tieing in.

Another solo session, moves felt unfamiliar first go. Got to the last part of the top crux clean second go. Top needs more dialing. Skin was a bit raw, called it after 2 burns.

Diabolically technical! Sacrificed some skin finding dyno beta. The final move mantling the hanging off-width is mental! Feels low percentage and condition dependant. Going to go for the link next session.

Linked in two sections, got all the moves dialled. Need to sort the pre-rack and tie in for the lead!

Almost flashed this! Past the crux and bumped to a shit part on the undercut and my hand slipped.

Second go, hard to judge grade, dependant on height, hip and leg mobility. Easy topout.

An absolute beta monster. Took a few goes to get everything dialled in. Stoked with the tick! 😊 Not as hard as I initially thought it would be.

Probably soft, fucked all the easy beta up on the rp, ended up desperately scrapping my way up on the send. Definitely made it a 27 for myself 😂

Managed it in the first sesh thanks to Pats beta, what a beauty! Very classy, wish it was longer!

Yieww!! So stoked! Second attempt for the day, took a bit of dialling. Probably not 27 with the right beta.

Actually felt alright on this, was close to getting the send second go. Not that reachy and quite short.

What a climb! Couldn't pull the bulge sequence, beautifully varied sustained climbing above.

One of the most memorable adventures climbing in NZ, such a fantastic pitch! Exposed, classy moves on steep, beautifully marbled volcanic rock. James and I spent the second half of the day having a crack at it. We free'd all the moves but didn't manage the full send. One to come back for!

Got all the moves, found a karate kick that made the top sequence a bit easier. Absolutely nails!

Got most of the moves, feels desperate below the second bolt. Great climbing above that though!

Working sesh from a while ago, could apparently do all the moves with an injured pulley.

Almost flashed!

Came within a hair of flashing this, good fun!

Had a play at the end of the day. Extremely techy.

P1, stellar!

First 26 onsight, probably not too bad at the grade.

Either super soft or maybe I climbed it wrong, fun and pumpy.

Not sure if this is 26, pretty bouldery then not too bad.

Accidentally thought this was a 17, surprised gabby 😅 she hung the draws and figured out all the beta. Stoked!

Fun movement, quite short though.

Stellar, reachy but not too bad. Pre-placed gear and inspection.

Second go, rad.

Second go after a beta lap, the smeary feet and dyno's are phenomenal! Such a fun route!

Bouldery, technical and classy, definitely 3 stars. Inspired by Jimbo's clean send first go of the day. I definitely benefited from the bucket of beta Jim kindly donated from his working sessions. A stellar route!

2nd go, fell at the last bolt on the onsight, felt easier than the 25 next to it.

3rd go

3rd go, fantastic route!

Blew the onsight using a bad sequence in the roof. Not too bad after that, plenty of rests.

Felt nails on TRS, couldn't link the moves, ended up going first try on lead! Stoked on the last day sendy. I initially thought it might be a 27, but perhaps not, definitely hard nonetheless.