Ascensioni in Oceania da Dave Scarlett

Seemed that many of the bolts were unnecessary, almost turning it into a sport route. Only placed a couple of knuckle-size nuts in the crack leading to the ledge on the arete, and a BD #1 and #2 in the break above the crux (#3 probably would have been better). Not convinced that this is a significant improvement on the original.

Surprisingly fun! The bulging rock makes the handholds invisible from below, so there's a lot of groping around for good hands, which can make it a little intimidating, especially combined with the steepness of the route. They're definitely there though. Maybe take a cam around BD #0.75 size if you'd like to thoroughly protect the (fairly easy) slab finish.

Nice and long, with a slabby, bolt-protected crux passing the obvious roof. The only runout section is the grade 15 start shared with Blind Sox, after that there's plenty of pro.

Magnificent climbing, and highly unusual for Buffalo. Found the crux (vertical face climbing) fairly straightforward, but the final section (traversing up a dyke with only friction for feet) was quite intimidating, as it is a little runout above the last bolt and there's the potential to hit the ledge below the crux in a fall.

Masochistic. P1 3D climbing with awkward moves out of cave, well protected by cams up to BD#2. P2 slabby off-width to start, upper section protectable by BD#5 cam or Big Bro #2 (the only place big gear is necessary), then a carrot in the back corner before traversing back along the roof on an excellent foot-ledge, with an awkwardly low roof, exposure, underclings, and good cam/nut pro, finishing with difficult moves into the chimney. P3 fun, 3D jug-hauling around crack on good cams. Led P1 & P3.

Fun climbing with a slightly awkward start. Perhaps a bit soft for the grade. No laybacking or offwidth techniques required. Mostly bolt protected, so no big gear needed, just a few cams up to BD#2.

I was told this was a sport route. It wasn't! Nice aside from the resulting runouts though, and I could see where trad gear could have been used.

Nice and consistent climbing with a wild finish through the roof. The final bolt seems to be positioned way too far right though, with the most reasonably point to tackle the roof (especially at this grade!) being about a meter left of the bolt.

Only gear needed is 2-3 cams in the hand to fist range for the initial traverse.

Thought provoking through the middle, then tough cranking through the roof to finish. Mostly small cams and nuts, but a BD #2 was handy through the roof.

Lovely climbing, but a bit of a sandbag. Very sustained, except for the big ledge at 1/3 height, and offers a good variety of climbing throughout. Crux was between bolts 4 and 5, with the top being easier but more committing.

Inspected the gear on rappel. Ended up placing a loose-finger size cam in the back of a pocket between bolts 4 and 5 (a bigger cam, maybe first sized might also have worked), and another of the same size in a right-facing vertical slot 1.5m up from the final bolt.

Excellent, consistent slab climbing on P1 that keeps you on your toes the whole way, and would be thoroughly worthwhile even only as a single pitch to the lower-off. Fiddly gear, with a full range of nuts (mainly small to micro, with multiple sites being very handy) and some cams, mainly small to micro. Moving right to breach the final overlap at the bolt, only to move back left seemed a bit contrived, but is probably justified given that the more natural line would go through a huge jammed block which looks like it might one day come unjammed.

P2 starts easily, but the traverse right at the first bolt seemed harder than anything on pitch 1, and a sandbag at grade 19.

Led pitch 1 onsight, seconded up into Kestrel instead of P2 after leader escaped into it.

Varied and thoroughly enjoyable. Delicate and crimpy slab moves to start, with the lower crux being just reaching the first bolt. Eases off after the third bolt (but is run out), until the big horizontal crack, where a great hand crack continues to the top, with maybe 6m of grade 16 crack climbing. From the ground it looks like it's all over after the horizontal crack, but this isn't the case! Take finger to hand sized cams and nuts, with a BD #2 or #3 for the horizontal crack.

Big runout between bolts 1 and 2 (mediocre small nuts and/or micro cams in the crack right of the arete are possible), though easy climbing in that section, then really ramping up in difficulty from bolt 2 to the top, with reachy moves on thin holds.

Wonderfully varied terrain - slab, face climbing, a chimney, and then the super exposed corner crack. Definitely one of the best outings at Arapiles.

GEAR BETA: 2 dubious old carrot bolts on P3. One in the top of the chimney (put a DMM Revolver on it to manage rope drag!) and another about 2m above the roof. Proper bolt with fixed hanger about 6m up P4. The end of pitch 3 and start of pitch 4 will be runout without big gear. A #5 Camalot or #2 Big Bro is ok, #6 Camalot or #3 Big Bro is great.

Took a BD C4 #6 and Big Bros #2 and #3, plus a #4 WC Helium Friend as a test of what could be used in the offwidth sections. Found #6 is actually too small for the start of the crack (after the roof on P3), and then becomes too big when the crack suddenly narrows! I managed to get it in, but it was almost overcammed. A #5 would have been better there. The #4 Friend was too small for the very top of P3 too. Need BD #4 or another #5 instead, then #6 fits P4 when the crack narrows before the bolt.

Very thin on gear. Micro cams useful for both the slab and the arete.

Runout start, with no protection other than a carrot bolt. Although you can get a small-medium cam in way out to the left after the carrot, and then an obvious micro-cam placement in the slab above. The corner crack looks wide from the ground, but doesn't actually need big gear - nothing larger than a #1 Camalot.

Magnificent route, but the mantle start was definitely not grade 15 - more like 18. (Though at least it is somewhat well protected by a small hex or large but in the top of the crack, without obstructing jamming opportunities.) Then a runout traverse leads through possible groundfall territory to easier climbing at the arête, before some committing, pumpy jug-hauling to finish. 3 carrot bolts up the arête and two at the belay.

Ridiculous trad placement (slung drill hole) as first piece of protection - bring a 120cm sling and a sick or nut tool! Nice once that awkwardness is sorted though.

Nice, delicate slabbing past the ringbolts, then slightly easier slabbing through the fixed hangers above.

Very reachy crux between bolts 2 and 3. The pockets at the top were surprisingly fairly juggy. Placed a mediocre BD #1 size cam in a pocket above bolt 2, thin hand size cams in the horizontal break, and then a thin finger size cam in a pocket about a foot up from the break.

Be sure to take slings - there's little if any other pro available after the 2nd bolt!

Tricky slab moves around the second bolt.

Difficult moves getting up after clipping first bolt, with small cam possible maybe 1m above and right of that bolt, then crux pulling past 2nd bolt on crimps and one poor foot, leading to an easier but delicate finish.

Very nice. A series of jugs all the way up, mostly just a slight stretch apart. Might be more difficult for shorter climbers. Amazing views!

Committing step from the bouldering slab up to the arete, and then delicate moves around the first bolt up to an annoying finish amongst the tree branches. Listed as 14 in Rockclimbs Around Melbourne, and is definitely not a 12.

P1: Brutally sustained, with an early crux just past the (ancient, dubious, unnecessary) bolt. The wide crack is often too big to be practical for cams, and while there is other, smaller, pro, it can be fiddly or sparse. The final mantle move isn't bad, with pro and holds available if you search.

P2: One difficult move to get past the roof, then cruisy, grade 15 climbing to the top. There's plenty of pro under the roof, but above is tricky.

Leaders should be confidant at the grade!

Had a less-experienced climbing partner lead P1, who thought it was very tough for an 11 - especially the starting moves and the (bolt protected) bulge at the top. The 2nd pitch has some fascinating rock features, and you should bring lots of slings, as there are countless chicken-heads and holes than can be threaded. I thought the bolt was unnecessary, as I was able to place two cams (admittedly one being a micro-cam) within 50cm of it!

Warm up. Lovely and cruisy. Had never noticed before just how dodgy the bolt is. Looks like an 8mm (or thinner?) thread with a bolt plate fixed to it!

Tough moves getting through the bolt-protected bulge at the start, then easier slab climbing in the middle, before a slight committing finish. Quite nice.

Bouldery start leads to a pumpy section with plenty of medium cam placements, then a rest ledge and bolt before the crux. It's wishful to think that being tall will make the "reachy" crux any easier.

Excellent! An easy traverse followed by an exciting, exposed arête climb, with a bolt-protected crux. I think I traversed too low, going straight across to one of the direct start bolts, rather than going diagonally up to the arête.

Very run out. No reliable pro before the rusty carrot bolt, and then not much before the end either. Ended up clipping one of the nearby bolts on Summer Breeze. Interesting bollard moves at the start though. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear or a long sling or cordelette reaching to the Skippy bolts.

Came expecting a flake the whole way, instead found the crack fusing shut and instead leaving a runout slab on fiddly gear! Micro-cams, small nuts and micro nuts indispensable. Easy finish once you reach the final flake. Couldn't see any evidence of the chopped bolt, which was apparently a foot above the top of the flake.

Very tricky moves for the grade on P1 getting up the wide crack to the bolt, and then a very confusing final pitch, where there's sloping holds, poor pro, and no clear line to follow. I went up the right corner, chimneying against the right scarab horn, which was mossy, but at least had decent protection.

Done in two pitches. Led final pitch.

I think this and 'Flake of Fear' at Summerday Valley should switch names. Don't try to place any protection before the bolt - best case you will introduce massive rope drag, and worst case you'll fall, tear the flake off, and not only hit the ground, but also have the now-detached flake land on top of you!

Terrifying climbing up the paper-thin flake, followed by a nice, delicate slab traverse, and then a final loose finger crack to finish, which offers nice, secure finger-locks.

Difficult moves at the top of the crack getting onto the slab, then a good rest once you're above that, very delicate slabbing past the bolt, getting much easier towards the finish.

Balancy and a bit runout through the middle, but not too difficult. Good gear before the roof, though it's at the far right side, so long quickdraws are essential. The roof itself (crux) is jug hauling with poor feet, and the position of the bolt can make for some bad rope drag once you're above it.

Sandbagged, runout, and sustained. Looked like there was gear most of the way up the initial crack, but it'd be difficult to get it in, and then there's a significant runout before the bolt, which included what I felt was the crux, traversing left to the slab under the bolt. Definitely harder than 18 (maybe 20, maybe 19?) and I definitely had no desire to lead this!

Lovely corner climbing on the first pitch, with some tricky laybacking in sections. Lots of loose rock in the bottom of the chimney, so decided stringing pitches 1 and 2 together wasn't a good idea. P3 is the chimneying, which felt a little run out, and thrutchy in parts. Overall probably much more serious at the grade than something like Bard.

Led P1, soloed P2, seconded P3-4 strung together.