Tutti 51 ascensioni visualizzati.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Falesia | Qualità | Arrampicatore | Data | |||
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7a | |||||||||
6b+ 7a | ★★ Abadia - con Tereza | 400m | Grimsel | Mar 28 Mar 2017 | |||||
Climbed the first half of Abadia, then transitioned onto Sudkante when Abadia crosses the corner to speed up so we didn't delay the others too much! face-durststrecke-vi.html" target="_blank">http://blog.buschnick.net/2017/03/mittagfluh-south-face-durststrecke-vi.html
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6c | |||||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Mummery
- con
chris
1
6b+
2
6b
3
6b
4
6b
5
6a+
6
6a
7
6b+
8
5c
9
6b+
10
5a
| Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Ven 23 Set 2022 | |||||
Brilliant line, perfect conditions and with a cheerful partner. For me the crux pitch was Pitch 1 for power and Pitch 7 for technique. I will be back for Urlix.
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6b+ | |||||||||
6a+ 6b+ | ★★★ Motorhead | 480m | Grimsel | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 7 Ago 2017 | ||||
I carried 2x 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75 and 1x 1, 2 Camalots. A set of peanuts covered a few spots that were too small for cams. It wasn't possible to place anymore than that, so no need to bring anything additional (unless you have offset or totem cams, which will get you several more placements in the numerous flared cracks. Great route!
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6b |
★★★ Motorhead
1
4a
480m
2
5c+
3
6a+
4
4b
5
5a
6
5c
7
6a+
8
6b
9
4b
10
5b+
11
5c
12
6a+
13
5c
14
4b
| 480m | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Mar 11 Set 2018 | ||||
Schon ziemlich plattig. Aber sonst hammer, auch wenn viele Bohrhacken von einem frustrierten alten Kletterer entfernt wurde.
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6b+ | ★★ Cortado | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 18 Ago 2019 | |||||
This one, too, felt way easier than even most gym 6b+'s I've climbed. Beautiful route nonetheless.
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6b+ | ★★★ Motorhead - con Eric, Sara M | 480m | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 13 Giu 2022 | ||||
The crack systems are quite flared so there’s not much jamming to be had. Mostly friction slab & laybacking. Very chill & fun but felt a bit hyped. 1hr 30 to walk-in, 4hr30 on route.
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6b+ | ★★★ Siebenschlafer (extension of Engeliweg) (Siebenschläfer) | Grimsel | Lun 4 Ago 2003 | ||||||
leider nur 1. SL
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6b+ |
★★★ Motorhead
1
4b
2
5c+
3
6a+
4
4b
5
5a
6
5c
7
6a+
8
6b+
9
4b
10
5b+
11
5c+
12
6b
13
5c
14
4a
| 480m | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 17 Set 2023 | ||||
Great Route! Took us 5:45 h to climb. I had a hassle to find a free QuickDraw on my christmastree-like harness in pitch 3 to clip the 2nd bolt. When I found it I clipped, grabbed it, hated my self and let it go instantly to finish the pitch... So unfortunately no valid free ascent
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6b | |||||||||
6b | ★★★ Sagittarius - con Johannes | 410m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Sab 10 Set 2016 | ||||
Fantastic route!
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6b | ★★ Gewaltig | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 18 Ago 2019 | |||||
Felt way easier than even most gym 6b's I've climbed. Beautiful route nonetheless.
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6b | ★★★ Sagittarius (Sagitarius) | 410m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Ven 4 Ago 2017 | ||||
alternate leading
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6b | ★★★ Sagittarius - con Kathrin | 410m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Lun 1 Ago 2022 | ||||
Immer wieder schön, in der 9. Seillänge hat es sehr viele lose Steine
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6b |
★★★ Sagittarius
- con
Simon
1
5a
25
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
3
6a
33
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
5
5c+
28
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
7
6a+
35
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
9
6a
32
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
11
5c+
38
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
13
5b
35
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
| 410m | Grimsel | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 8 Ott 2023 | ||||
geniale Linie, leider konnte ich die 8.SL nicht frei klettern; die Querung unterm Dach an feinen Leisten ging noch frei, aber die Platte danach ist super scary.
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6a+ | |||||||||
6a 6a+ | ★★★ Fair Hands Line - con jakob | 350m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Dom 18 Giu 2017 | ||||
Probleme in der zweiten Seillänge. Anspruchsvolle Kopf Tour
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6a 6a+ | ★★★ Fair Hands Line | 350m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Mar 14 Ago 2018 | ||||
great route, walk off is great. Slab pitches (2 and 9) are hard but protection is overall pretty reasonable. run out where it's easy.
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6a 6a+ | ★★★ Fair Hands Line - con Tereza | 350m | Grimsel | Dom 20 Nov 2016 | |||||
Swam through snow to reach the start, running out of daylight by the 4th pitch so bailed.
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6a+ | Ahoi | Grimsel | Media | Dom 18 Ago 2019 | |||||
Could actually really count as a 6a+ if you strictly follow the bolts. This, however, feels really forced and unnatural...
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6a+ | ★★ Moby Dick - con manu | Grimsel | Sab 12 Ott 2019 | ||||||
Slippery when wet
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6a+ |
★★★ Fair Hands Line
- con
manu
1
5b
25m
2
6a+
40m
3
6a
40m
4
5c+
40m
5
5b
35m
6
5b
35m
7
4c
40m
8
5b
35m
9
6a
40m
10
5a
40m
| 370m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Dom 13 Ott 2019 | ||||
Super Route! Lange runouts bei einfachen Stellen, Klebehaken an den schwierigen Stellen, Friends 03-3 alle mal gebraucht. Bahnpersonal beim Abstieg sehr freundlich.
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6a+ | ★★★ Fair Hands Line | 350m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Lun 10 Ago 2020 | ||||
con PCP
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6a+ |
★★★ Septumania
1
5c+
2
5c
3
5a
4
5a
5
5b
6
6a
7
5c
8
6a
9
5c
10
6a+
11
5a
12
4a
13
5c
14
5b
15
5c
16
4a
| Grimsel | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 8 Ago 2021 | |||||
A fall at pitch 10 and a short rest on pitch 13 due to wet conditions.
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6a+ | ★★★ Fair Hands Line - con Gabriele Marg | 350m | Grimsel | Dom 3 Ago 2003 | |||||
nur 2 SL
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6a+ |
★★★ Fair Hands Line
- con
Mateusz
1
5b
2
6a+
3
6a
4
5c+
5
5b
| 350m | Grimsel | Sab 12 Ago 2023 | |||||
Nach 5 SL wegen aufkommendem Gewitter abgeseilt.
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6a+ Dura |
★★ Schiefer Traum
1
5b
45
It's possible to place some cams here (0.5-1), but not strictly necessary. Varied climbing.
2
5c+
45
Don't stop at the old belay, but continue heading right. The crux move (pressing feet into slab while holding an undercling) can possibly be skipped by following a grassy crack to the left.
3
6a
45
Slab.
4
6a
45
Slab. Crux moves right at the belay.
5
6a+
45
Slab. Took me a few attempts to find a small edge for the left hand, which gives enough stability to raise the right foot. Once you have all the holds, the rating is ok. Stay to the left, once the next belay comes into view.
6
5c
45
Slab with some vertical steps.
7
5c
40
Slab.
8
5a
45
Slab and an easy flake.
9
5c
45
Slab and an easy flake.
10
5b
45
More varied terrain including a nice mantle over a small overhang. Make sure to use alpine slings to reduce rope drag!
11
5b
45
Enjoyable slab along varied structures. | 490m | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 17 Set 2023 | ||||
First time on a big slab wall. Protection was sometimes a bit scary, but always fair. Quick and easy rappelling. Finding the start of the route was a bit of a hassle. We ended up climbing the right side of the large boulder that sits in the gully (we also saw a bolt on the left side of the boulder, but it seemed a bit sketch). Despite numerous notices that the wall would be wet until 11:00 a.m., we started climbing around 09:00 a.m. and found dry conditions, although there was a bit of Foehn wind, which usually means very low humidity conditions.
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6a+ |
★★★ Fair Hands Line
- con
Chrischu
1
5b
2
6a+
If a 6a+ from 1978 has no holds and footholds at all, how does a 6b+ looks like super tough one
3
6a
My fav one of the 10 pitches. Super nice dihedral
4
5c+
5
5b
6
5b
7
4c
4c ...
8
5b
9
6a
10
5a
| 350m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Dom 17 Set 2023 | ||||
A 1978 classic. We didnt do it trad My Partner lead the pitches where trad gear was necessary with an incredible strong head game (you dont need gear in every single pitch if you can handle the run outs) Slab-Action to the fullest!
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6a+ |
★★★ Fair Hands Line
- con
Simon
1
5b
25m
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
3
6a
35m
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
5
5b
20m
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
7
4c
28m
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
9
6a
35m
arrampicata in lead da
Simon
| 350m | Grimsel | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 7 Ott 2023 | ||||
historischer Klassiker mit einigen kniffligen Stellen; Plattenschleicherei at its best
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6a | |||||||||
5c+ |
Maa mit Bart
1
5b
200m
3
5c+
| 200m | Grimsel | Dom 11 Lug 2021 | |||||
Richtig plattig und ein wenig "ballsy" zwischen durch, gutes nevernkostüm mitbringen ;-)
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6a |
★★ Ameisenrennen
- con
Nora
| 760m, 99 | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 16 Lug 2022 | ||||
geniale Genusstour!
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6a ~5c+ | ★★ Ameisenrennen | 760m, 99 | Grimsel | Sab 2 Set 2023 | |||||
2.5 hours. too soft
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5c+ | |||||||||
5c+ | ★★ Quarzriss - con Andrea Montaly | 180m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Mer 10 Giu 2015 | ||||
Bis zur 4SL. Schöner Quarz. Etwas luftig agesichert.
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5c+ | ★ Paradiesvogel | 200m | Grimsel | ★ Buona | Mar 1 Set 2020 | ||||
con PCP
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4c |
Chly Häx (Chly Häx P1)
1
4c
200m
| 200m | Grimsel | Dom 11 Lug 2021 | |||||
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5c+ | ★★ Grimsel Life - con Nora | Grimsel | Sab 16 Lug 2022 | ||||||
keinen Kopf mehr gehabt in der letzen SL.. Gletscherschliffplatten glatt wie ein Spiegel...
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5c+ |
★★ Quarzriss
1
45m
2
40m
| 85m | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 19 Mag 2024 | ||||
Turned around after second pitch, because upper pitches looked wet. Some bolts deformed due to rockfall or avalanches.
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5c | |||||||||
5c |
★ Albis Weg (Direkt)
1
4a
2
4c
3
5b+
4
5a
5
5a
6
5c
| Grimsel | ★ Buona | Dom 18 Ago 2019 | |||||
Nice route with varied climbing. Generally, the grades felt soft but the two crux-moves on the slab in P4 felt significantly harder than any other part in this route, so subjectively I'd swap the grades between P4 and P6...
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5b |
Tim und Struppi
1
4a
300m
3
2c
5
5b
| 300m, 11 | Grimsel | Dom 11 Lug 2021 | |||||
Stand nach der 5. Seillänge hat ein super kleines Mallion drinn... das sollte ersetzt werden. Finden wir ein wenig sketchy...
In der 7. Seillänge hats den ersten Haken erwischt... zum 2. wärs jetzt ein ca 7m platten Runout... auch leider auch nicht zusätzlich absicherbar...
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5b | |||||||||
5a 5b | Krümel (Krumel) - con Laurence | 320m | Grimsel | Sab 13 Ago 2016 | |||||
Climbed as alternative to Fliegender Teppich in attempt at the Grimsel Marathon to get around slower climbers...
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5b | ★★ Am Ueli sis Chueli (An Ueli sis Chueli) - con Tereza | Grimsel | Dom 26 Mar 2017 | ||||||
Climbing in clouds, damp rock & poor visibility. We bailed at the top of the 5th pitch because I was climbing too slow to get warm and slowly freezing!
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5b |
★★★ Fliegender Teppich
- con
Nico
| 320m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Dom 19 Giu 2022 | ||||
Very nice route, but be careful with the approach: The route doesn't start at the very bottom of the slab, but some way up at a grass band that should be reached from the side. I started at the very bottom, in a dihedral marked with a red arrow, and did a 4c slab, 40m, with only a single bolt in it for protection, until I arrived at the proper first belay. See picture for clarity.
Had a problem in the second pitch, a small section of orange rock was super slippery and I just could not get any traction on it, slipped and fell after multiple attempts. |
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5a 5b | ★★★ Fliegender Teppich - con Hansjörg, Roger | 320m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Mer 7 Set 2022 | ||||
6SL nachgestiegen in 3er Seilschaft, danach taktischer Rückzug , Abseilen im Regen
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5a+ | |||||||||
5a+ |
★★ King Albert
1
4c
2
5a
3
4a
4
5a+
5
4c
6
4b
7
4c
8
4c
9
3c
10
2c
| 450m | Grimsel | Media | Sab 17 Ago 2019 | ||||
Somewhat monotonous "Plattenschleicher" ("slab-sneaker"?!). The crux-pitch was really nice, though.
The route is really easy, one could well subtract a grade from most pitches. |
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5a |
★★ King Albert
- con
Anna
2
5a
arrampicata in lead da
Anna
4
5a
arrampicata in lead da
Anna
6
4c
arrampicata in lead da
Anna
8
4c
arrampicata in lead da
Anna
10
2c
arrampicata in lead da
Anna
| 450m | Grimsel | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 19 Giu 2022 | ||||
Great alternative if Foxie is crowded (which it nearly always is). This has some surprisingly varied climbing, even though it is still predominantly friction slab. I especially liked p4, a great 5a traverse on rock that is much more textured than the usual glassy Grimsel slab. 5a is a hard grade for that pitch, could also be 5b/+.
The pitches here are drilled for exactly a 50m rope, you often have 1-2 meters left when your partner is at the next belay. Only the last pitch is very short. With a 60m rope you might be able to link the last two pitches, with a 70m you can do it for sure. |
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5a | |||||||||
5a | ★★★ Südkante | 400m | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Lun 3 Set 2018 | ||||
We only needed 7 quickdraws, thats max number of bolts
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5a | ★★ Foxie - con Laurence | 300m | Grimsel | Sab 13 Ago 2016 | |||||
Climbed on trad gear and extended a couple of pitches above the walk-off.
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5a | ★★ Nils Holgersohn - con Anika, Jakob, Marianus, Mael | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 21 Set 2019 | |||||
Family Climbing
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5c |
★★ Foxie
- con
Anika, Jakob
| 300m | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 29 Set 2019 | ||||
Sehr schöne Famielentour. Gar nicht so viel Platte ...
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5a | ★★ Foxie | 300m | Grimsel | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 30 Lug 2021 | ||||
With Benno.
first real slab!
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5a |
★★ Foxie
- con
s
1
4b
2
5a
3
5a
4
3c
5
4c
6
4c
7
3c
8
4c
9
3a
10
4c
11
2a
arrampicata in lead da
s
| 300m | Grimsel | ★ Buona | Mar 4 Lug 2023 | ||||
Slab-walk. Often along a corner which helps with increasing friction. Climbed entirely in pitches. (2h)
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5a |
★★ Nils Holgersohn
- con
s
1
3c
arrampicata in lead da
s
2
4b
3
5a
4
4a
| Grimsel | ★ Buona | Lun 3 Lug 2023 | |||||
We did this to get accustomed to the mocal friction slab climbing style. But this one is actually quite varied. I felt really shaky in the third(?) pitch avoiding the slab move, stemming up a thin edged and corner to the right instead...
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5a | ★★ Hopp Riss - con Sandro Martis | Grimsel | ★★★ Classica | Dom 13 Ago 2023 | |||||
Last pitch is beautiful
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4b | |||||||||
4b |
★ Ernstli P1
- con
s
1
4b
| Grimsel | ★ Buona | Lun 3 Lug 2023 | |||||
Pure friction slab. No particularly difficult moves, but need trust in feet...
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Tutti 51 ascensioni visualizzati.