Vie in Northern California

Follow the trail across the grassy north slope of Wedding Rock and cross the chockstone to the South Sea Stack. Climb the left-facing dihedral, then head up the slab to the shared bolted anchor. (source: markbutterworth.com)

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Freak Show'[233085501].

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Cross Dresser'[233085012].

Climb only to the new anchors at the top of pitch 1. Pro to 3".

Pro to 3".

Crack in the middle of the south face.

2-bolt top anchor.

"Bigfoot Country Climbing" (Humphrey, Chemello) describes this simply as "offwidth" left of Clipper Ship and Schooner.

1. 100ft (5.8) Move through the early crux, then follow the crack straight up,.

2. 100ft (5.8) Continue up the crack, then struggle through a short off-width section. Rappel, or ...

3. 100ft (5.6) ... continue up the dihedral to the right to gain the summit.

Pro to 4.5" with widest pro at the off-width crux. #5 C4 or #11 BD hex will see you through.

1. (5.9) Lead up the crack to the overhang, and set up a belay above the overhang.

2. (5.11c) Traverse left. The first bolt is up and right. Follow the bolts to the top.

One bolt, gear to 3". Moderate crack climb leads to a fun juggy roof.

Pro to 3".

Pro to 4".

Ascend the crack right of Bon Voyage.

Climb the crack / chimney up the left-facing dihedral to the right of Six Toe Crack, tunneling behind the massive chockstone. Finish at the bolted anchor shared with Six Toe Crack. Pro to 4".

Climb about 30' up easy 5th class dihedral, on left side of large roof, then traverse left and up face placing gear in flakes as you go. About 50' up, face thins out and you make delicate moves past 2 bolts and 10a crux to gain a right-facing dihedral. Layback up to the top of the dihedral, and reach left to a large detached flake with a spike of rock on top which can be slung with a long runner. Follow cracks straight up another 40' to chain anchor. Pro to 3". 60m rope suffices to lower to easy terrain (tie a knot in the end).

Mixed. Gear to 2". Be mentally prepared for the tricky pro above the last bolt. Crux comes as you pull through the bolt protected roof.

Pro to 3".

Pro to 5". Bolted top anchor.

8 half-inch removable bolts. 2-bolt top anchor.

Ascend the crack right of Clipper Ship.

1. Start on Chocksucker, but traverse right to the arête after passing the P1 anchor of Six Toe Crack. Belay at the ledge with the bushes.

2. Continue up the arête to the summit.

Start on Apnea. After initial bouldery start climb up layback crack about 10' then traverse right to a bolt on thin face moves (11-). Continue right a bit then straight up to another bolt and pass bolt crux (11b/c). Place #4 BD stopper or equivalent from a dicey stance, traverse back left a couple of moves, then up for about 10'-15' of solid 5.10r until you gain a layback flake and pro. Continue to a roof with a bolt, turn roof (10-), and traverse back into the 5.10 finish of Apnea. Pro to 3".

Gear to 4". A start that is a little spooky leads through tricky to protect face climbing. A short rightward traverse leads into a multi-tiered roof. Crux is the last move.

Exit right on Jugs on the Horizon 10' before the P1 anchor, and traverse right then up to the Marbelous anchor. Pro to 2".

2-bolt top anchor. This short route links the lower and upper sections of 'Shooting Gallery'[14342359]. For easier foot access to the Upper Shooting Gallery, follow the trail clockwise around the base of the Tower of Babble to the 'Boardwalk'[192320349].

Approach from the base of Low Tide Crack. Look for the dihedral up the face of Wedding rock.

1. 80ft Climb the right facing corner. Belay at the sloping ledge.

2. 100ft Traverse around right to a large ledge.

3. ??ft Traverse right for a few feet, then continue up cracks to reach the wall of the summit trail. Walk off.

Pro from micro nuts to 2".

Ultra Classic. Start just left of large roof. Bouldery start at a bolt to sustained thin crack/seam with good but sporty pro. Turn a small roof, and climb face on thin but positive edges to a larger roof. Turn roof 'crux' and continue up steep sporty cracks to chain anchor. Pro to 3".

Mixed. Gear to 1". Start in the dihedral next to the big live oak tree and traverse into the first clip to your left.

Pro to 2".

2 bolt top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Shard'[192318069]. Start from the ledge at the top of 'Shard'[]. Descend in two 90 ft rappels.

Pitch 1 is farther to the right.

Pro to 1".

Classic. Start left of Apnea about 40' up on a ledge just left of flaky right-facing dihedral. From ledge do a mantle 10a move on perfect marble like rock to gain a bolt, then up a rounded arête to a layback crack. Throw in some bomber gear, and layback up a couple of moves. Make a face move back right, and climb up to a roof. Power through roof 11a crux, then up thin face to another cruxy move 10d to chain anchor. Pro to 0.75".

first 30' right facing dihedral

Climb past 5 bolts, place some pro as you traverse left to a 6th bolt, then head up the crack, past the tree, to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'El Niño'[233141667] and 'La Niña'[233142492].

Pro to 1".

Pro to 3".