Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | Falesia | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route
An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.
| 430m, 15 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike
Bolts replaced in 1992. FFA: Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks, 1965 | 550m, 8 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ The Nutcracker Suite
FFA: Royal Robbins & Liz Robbins, 1967 | 180m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 PG13 | ★★★ Double Cross
Warning: The first 20 feet of this climb offers tricky protection and have sent many an unprepared climber to hospital. | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Bishop's Terrace
Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch. FA: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden & Steve Roper, 1959 FFA: Chuck Pratt & Herb Swedlund, 1960 | 55m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy
One of the best 5.9 routes in the Valley! This stunning route can be identified by the twin crack system of the second pitch just left of the bear bins. Amazing climbing. Most parties rap at the top of the 5th pitch using double ropes. A 70m rope will need to be extended to reach on the first rap (top of 5th pitch). FA: Jim Bridwell et al., 1973 | 170m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ After Six
Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4. Pro to 2". FFA: Yvon Chouinard & Ruth Schneider, 1965 | 180m, 6 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose
On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style. The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick. Speed Records
FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore, 1958 FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993 | 1000m, 31 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack
FA: Glen Denny & Les Wilson, 1961 FFA: Tom Higgins & Chris Jones, 1967 | 110m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam
| 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★ Munginella
Located in the leftmost dihedral of the five open books area, this route begins with a 4th class scramble up to a bush. Then it's two or three pitches of varied climbing with corners, cracks, friction slab, and a bulge. Be careful of loose rock at the top, and consider belaying from the trees to the right instead of the left. Walk off left to descend with an optional single rope rappel. FFA: Tom Fender & Vic Tishous, 1966 | 110m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Sail Away
Super classic crack climb. | 26m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.6 III | ★★★ Southeast Buttress
Seemingly intimidating from afar, the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is a beautiful 5 pitch route filled with lovely moderate climbing. A must do when in Tuolumne, Cathedral Peak can become quite crowded, fortunately the climbing offers many ways to navigate around other parties, at least down low (up high the face narrows, and parties tend to get bottlenecked). | 220m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★★ East Buttress
1
5.6
120ft
2
5.8
40ft
3
5.8
100ft
4
5.7
100ft
5
5.10c
100ft
6
5.8
100ft
7
5.7
120ft
8
5.8
130ft
9
5.7
100ft
10
5.8
140ft
11
5.7
120ft
About 12 single rope Rapels Description is for climber facing the cliff Locate the rap anchor a few meters to the left Rap diagonally to the left towards a distinct triangular block, NOT steight down The next anchor is to the left hand side Rap towards the groove with the tree Do not pass the tree stop 3-4meters before. Look left it's not super obvious but that's where the next Rap anchor is Take care with the rope on this rap that it doesn't get caught on the trees 20m or so below. Flake it on yourself /harness. From this point on the raps are straight forward down the face. Easy to locate, even with a headtorch if you are rappeling in the dark. Apart from maybe rap 8 or 9 where the face becomes less slabby. The Rap is a little bit more to the left Very good Route! Heaps of chossy rock to look out for though Made me feal a bit that I was climbing in the mountains... We linked 3-4 easy And 7-8 in a mega 70m long pitch I would suggest not linking 1 with 2 The start of 2 can be a bit commiting, Nicer to have the belayer next to you, to stop you for decking We aided the bolted pitch Could have been fun to try climb it, but not fun if we wasted that time and got caught out in the dark for the last couple of pitches Especially when you need to do 12Raps to get out Rumor has it to better Rap than do the walk off.. FA: W. Harding, J. Davis & B. Swift, 1954 FFA: F. Sacherer & E. Leeper, 1965 | 360m, 9 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Commitment
Starts from a tree up the same 3rd class ramp as Munginella, but after having traversed further across the ledge the ramp reaches. Or can be reached from right as well by descending, then re-ascending around the foot of the cliff. FFA: Jim Bridwell, David Bircheff & Phil Bircheff, 1966 | 100m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Church Bowl Lieback
4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1". FFA: unknown, 1987 | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Jamcrack Route
1
5.7
2
5.9
5.7 hand crack with V at top to ledge; move left a few feet then 5.9 fingers crack to second anchor. | 53m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress
1
5.9
160ft
2
5.10b
70ft
3
5.6
55ft
4
5.6
125ft
5
Class 3
80ft
6
5.8
155ft
7
5.8
130ft
8
5.9
65ft
9
5.9
130ft
10
5.5
100ft
11
5.8
160ft
12
5.7
150ft
13
5.6
70ft
For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark. After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short) Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree. After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road FA: Allen Steck, Wili Siri, Bill Long & Willi Unsoeld, 1953 | 440m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Corrugation Corner
1
5.6
140ft
2
5.7
130ft
3
5.7
190ft
FA: Kurt Edsburg & et al, 1960 | 140m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Regular Route
FFA: Wally Reed & Chuck Pratt, 1958 | 300m, 12 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★ Grant's Crack
| 24m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center
Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing. Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4". FFA: Franch Sacherer & Steve Roper, 1963 FA: Herb Swedlund & Penny Carr, 1963 | 58m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★★ SW Corner
| 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 R | ★★★ Bear's Reach
1
5.7 R
120 ft
2
5.7
120 ft
3
5.7
120 ft
FFA: Phil Berry & Robin Linnett, 1956 | 110m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.8 | ★★ After Seven
An excellent alternate start to After Six with committing crack climbing and much less polish.
Rappel with 2 ropes (a single 70m rope may or may not suffice), or join up with pitch 3 of After Six. Pro to 2". FFA: unknown | 79m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.4 | ★★ The Bong
A brilliant first lead or easy solo. A popular way to get reception. | 18m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ West Crack
| 210m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10b | ★★ Church Bowl Tree
FA: Tom Rohr FA: Mike Jefferson & Dave Collins, 1970 FFA: unknown, 1982 | 18m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Haystack
1
5.6
140 ft
2
5.8
110 ft
3
5.6
165 ft
Belay from natural anchors. FFA: Ken Edsburg, T.M. Herbert & Jerry Sublette, 1965 | 130m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line
Pro to 2". FFA: Jeff Schaffer & Greg Schaffer, 1966 | 21m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ The Line
1
5.9
150ft
2
5.9
120ft
3
5.8
50ft
When looking at the East Wall, this is the obvious, nearly straight up and down, bottom-to-top crack line. When you see it, you know it. Climb the crack. Keep climbing it. | 98m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.8 | ★★ Cryptic
| 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Sons of Yesterday
| 240m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★ Mike's Books
Often just climbed to the rap anchor on the ledge. | 49m, 2 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Stichter Quits
| 35m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★ Double Dip
| 40m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.10b | ★★★ Illusion Dweller
Climb the long right-leaning hand & finger crack. | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Overhang Bypass
| 35m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★★ The Grack, Center Route
Three pitches of scrambly crack climbing up a slightly positive (20 to 30 degree) slab. Just before reaching the top-out at the end of the third pitch, the crack seam disappears and the climber must make two or three intimidating traverse moves to better holds. The route finishes on a very large ledge with bolts. There are now 5 rappel anchors (including the final belay station) that let you rap in a direct line to the bottom.
| 120m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11a | ★★★ Outer Limits
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Jim Orey, 1971 | 47m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ White Lightning
Climb the obvious jagged crack that starts in a rectangular groove with leaning rectangular blocks at the base. | 34m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Walk On The Wild Side
1
5.8
2
5.7
3
5.5
Starts on the right side of the base of Saddle Rock, just left of the gully, and just right of a roof about 20m up.
Though this climb is protected only by bolts, with no gear placements, it is not by any measure a modern sport route. There are sizeable run-outs and rope-management issues that would not be expected on a sport climb. | 91m, 3, 6 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.8 C1 V | ★★★ South Face
FA: Layton Kor & Chris Fredericks, 1964 | 370m, 11 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Child of Light | 26m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.7 R | ★★ Surrealistic Pillar
1
5.7
100ft
2
5.7
150ft
3
5.5 R
50ft
FA: Ken Edsburg, Mike Edsburg & Jerry Sublette, 1963 | 91m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.6 | ★ Swan Slab Gully
| 98m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Dogleg
| 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Lena's Lieback
FA: Kim Schmitz & Jim Madsen, 1967 | 58m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.3 | ★★ Upper Right Ski Track
| 24m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.8 | ★ China Doll | 20m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Touch and Go
| 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Reed's Direct
FA: Wally Reed, Frank Sacerer, Mark Powell, Gary Colliver & Andy Lichman, 1964 | 73m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Regular Northwest Face
FA: Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick & Jerry Gallwas, 1957 FFA: Dean Potter †, 2002 | 670m, 23 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Tiptoe
| 3 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Pop Bottle
A great first pitch, and easier, but still very pleasant pitches above.
| 130m, 3, 1 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.8 | ★★ East Crack
In the center of East Wall is an obvious arch, rising up from the base of the cliff and curving rightwards. East Crack goes up the 2nd crack line right of the right-end of the arch.
FFA: T.M. Herbert & Gordon Webster, 1966 | 120m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.9 | ★★ Heart of the Sun | 25m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.4 | ★ Knapsack Crack
left-most obvious low-angle crack line. | 91m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.8 R | ★★★ South Crack
Stellar climbing up a disappearing crack, then scary slabs above.
Head over the back of the dome to an obvious left-trending gully - descend this. | 150m, 6 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★ Sherrie's Crack
| 24m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Penelope's Problem
| 18m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★ Bummer
| 50m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.3 | ★★ The Eye
There is an obvious wide chimney on the side facing the road -- climb this chimney, or mostly the right-side wall of the chimney on veneer plates and cracks. Then, rather than having to pull the over-hanging apparent finish, escape back through a tunnel (the "eye"). | 24m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Nutcracker Right Start
The splitter right trending crack to the right of 'Nutcracker'. Solo 30' up to the top of the shield, then dubious gear to get started in the incipient crack (take great care here - this is the crux and it's poorly protected). The crack widens as it goes right, offering bomber gear, but the slab underneath is very polished, making this a long and sustained pitch at the grade. FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Bridwell & Cliff Jennings, 1969 | 61m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ La Cosita, Right
Pro to 2". FA: TM Herbert & Steve Roper, 1963 | 27m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Loose Lady
| 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★ Amazing Face
The most popular route here and most likely the one you will find people on. Starts at the main "cave" in the middle of lower tier and follows the left side of the bolts (which are all solid.) The right side of the bolts offers a slightly harder variation. Fine technical face climbing with good edges everywhere. Easily top roped with 2 bolt anchor on top. Protection Quickdraws for leading, 15 - 20' sling to extend top rope over edge. | 24m, 10 | Mount Diablo | ||
5.7 | ★ Uncle Fanny
Pro to 3". Descend with 80' rappel. FA: Bruce Price & Michael McLean, 1970 | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker
Fabulous steep jam crack from narrow hand to offwidth. Pro to 6" with doubles to 3". Two rope rappel. FFA: Frank Sacherer & Mike Sherrick, 1964 | 46m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ The Flake
| 43m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
V4 | ★★★ Iron Man | 5m | Buttermilks | ||
5.7 | ★ Buissonier
FA: Royal Robbins, 1965 | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.4 | Aunt Fanny's Pantry
Pro to 3". FA: Sheridan Anderson & Leo LebBon, 1965 | 30m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Harry Daley
Two pitches up the center of the Monday Morning Slab pinnacle. Climb 3rd/4th class scrambles to a ledge in the middle of the slab, where there is an obvious pin-scarred crack going up the center of a slab.
FA: Ken Weeks & Harry Daley, 1960 | 70m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10d | ★★ Lazy Bum
| 15m | Yosemite National Park | ||
{AU} YDS:5.7 AID:A3 COM:V | ★★★ West Face
FA: Warren Harding, Al MacDonald, Glen Denny (with help from Les Wilson, Chris Westphal & George Whitmore), 1961 | 300m, 11 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★ Pole Position
Descend carefully via 100' rappel followed by 4th class downclimbing. FFA: John Harpole & et al. | 40m, 8 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Hospital Corner
FA: unknown FFA: Richard Harrison & Jay Smith, 1977 | 73m, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
{AU} YDS:5.8 | ★★ The Braille Book
| 190m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10b | ★★ Knob Job
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers, 1976 | 61m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★ East Wall
| 130m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
Class 3 | ★ Mountaineer's Route
FA: John Muir | 400m | High Sierra | ||
5.8 | ★★ The Groove
| 64m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.9 | ★★ North Overhang
| 35m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Sexy Grandma
Ascends the curving arete right of Double Cross, pulling a roof on large holds halfway up. Enter a gulley, step right over blunt lip onto slab beneath roof, and head straight up clipping three bolts and a pin en route to a two-bolt anchor. Some discrepancyon the grade, but it's a safe lead. | 24m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.10b | ★ Tsing Tao
FA: Marty Lewis & Kevin Calder | 20m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★★ The Swift
| 120m, 3 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Traveler Buttress
| 180m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.6 | ★ Solar Technology
Very nice route for the grade. Protects well. Walk off backside of route to the left. | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Lunatic Fringe
Yosemite's best 5.10 crack apparently!!! It is outstanding, but very challenging, it will test all of your crack climbing skills and is a very difficult onsight. There is finger locks, ring locks, double finger locks, hands, fists, o/w, laybacks. An awesome climb. | 43m | Yosemite National Park | ||
V4 | ★★★ The Solarium
Harder now due to breaks on the topout holds. | 4m | Tablelands | ||
5.5 | ★ Men With Cow's Heads
Good alternative if Solar Technology is busy. Walk off backside of route to the left. | 50m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.3 | ★ Double Crack
Decent route. Easy walk off backside. | 12m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★ Lower Right Ski Track
| 21m, 1 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Hands Off
Starts in a widening offset crack which requires a full on move or two down low. Excellent pro down all the way. Follow crack to the anchors, then walk off on the backside, left. | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Dappled Mare
1
5.5
2
5.7
3
5.8
4
5.7
| 91m, 4 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac
FA: Charlie Porter | 550m, 16 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★ Welcome to the Gorge | 18m | Owens River Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ Beginner's Crack
Tricky start, then easy. | 8m | Indian & Mortar Rocks | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Pope's Crack
| 40m | Joshua Tree National Park |