Vie in San Francisco and Peninsula

According to the Bay Area Rock guide, there's a 5.11 route up the face to the left of the crack (topo is approximate). Expect thin moves up a chossy face, especially near the top, with lots of loose rock near the fence posts.

Avoids the hard part of The Unnatural Act by traversing above the roof, rather than underneath it.

Watch out for poison oak around the base.

Although the crack start is ok (albeit very easy), this problem is best done in 2 "pitches" by starting down underneath the overhang to the left (as for 'Wasp Overhang'). Gets highball quick, due to the slope of the hill underneath. Top rope using slung boulder anchor.

Classic laybacking down low. Shame it's so short!

Start on the left side of the right hand cave, then up the wall above.

Hand traverse the obvious rail slot diagonally up and right.

There's another problem on the stalactite feature further inside the cave. It's usually damp, however.

Follow the horizontal crack over to the main vertical crack, with interesting crux moves at the horizontal traverse. If leading or aiding, look for the hangerless bolt two-thirds the way up in the middle of the glassy face. Pro to 2.5" with many small nuts.

Top anchor is chains which are often backed up with a sling on the second fence post. You don't have to climb over the fences to set up a top rope; however, if you do pull the chains under the fence, be very careful to avoid knocking rocks over the cliff.

The aid grade for this route is C1+ to C2 R.

An interesting and recommended mid-5.10 variation on all of the main routes is to avoid the vertical crack, using only face holds just to the right of the crack.

Deceptively tricky and very slippery. Top rope recommended.

Up the steep pillar. Harder if you don't use either arete.

Start right of the right hand cave, then head up and left on pockets.

X rated without a rope, as the tenuous crux is right at the top.

The line below the bolt (bring gear including long slings to back it up). Looks about 5.9ish.

The direct variation is easier and has a few interesting moves off the ground. Climb directly up the face to the crack. The crux is low with no opportunities to place pro before reaching the main crack.

If aid climbing, the low section can be aided with hooks, then pro to 2.5" and many small nuts for the crack. The aid grade for this route is C2 to C3 R.

The best splitter at Glen Canyon, though it can be face climbed. Crux is down low. Watch for poison oak as you top-out.

Probably best to top-rope this one too.

Sit start and stay true to the arete, avoiding the temptation to move left (or right).

A little loose up high. Can escape right if need be.

The short manufactured crack on the right side of the face, then over the upper bulge.

The steep prow on the right side of the chimney, using holds inside the chimney where needed. Note that some of the holds up high are loose, and there's a dangerous rock right in the landing zone.

Follow the thin crack up and to the right of the direct start before climbing the thin face (balancy crux) back and to the left.

Direct into the finish of The Rail. Watch for loose rock in the initial section - there has been at least one serious accident here when a hold ripped off.

A sketchy descent / ascent route. Vastly better to walk in & out to the right (facing the cliff).

Has been bouldered / soloed, but has a terrible landing so is better top roped (medium to large cams and a slung boulder well back from the top - watch for poison oak).

Low crux.

Head up behind the tree.

Circumnavigate the isolated boulder. Crux is getting around the low bulge that's the start of 'Undercling Problem'.

Start on 'Right of Direct Start'[16450741] but continue up the face, avoiding the crack until the very top of the route.

Traverses the high rail slot left of 'Wasp Overhang' (passing a snapped off piton). Highball.

Hard!

Can escape right, if the top roof is too scary.

The right side of the lower slab.

Up the slab without using your hands. There are at least 3 independent variants - left, centre and right (slightly harder).

Best top-roped, due to bad landing. Anchor off slung blocks and large cams.

Three hangerless bolts, two bolts with hangers, and one piton mark a line up the dirty, chossy face with very thin holds and balancy moves. Face climbing up past two or three old bolt holes will get you to the first hangerless bolt. Use the right-most doubled up fence post as a top anchor.

Good descent for this part of the cliff.

The blunt arete and V-notch surfboard-esque overhang. Deceptive!

Awkward crux at half height, just as the rock gets bad.

Top rope access to the top of the rock.

This is the usual finish for the Glen Park Traverse, but is a good problem in its own right. Watch out for the headcracker slab of rock in the landing zone.

Best top-roped, due to bad landing. Anchor off slung blocks and large cams.

The route Glen Park is famous for. A great roof problem that's best top-roped as it gets highball right at the crux.

The proud squeeze chimney, with two exits - behind the chockstone (tight), or in front of it.

Would recommend not being in here when an earthquake hits...

Watch the rock behind.

A good introductory problem. Walk off right on the ledge and down 'Descent', or continue up the easy but pleasant wall above.

Not clear exactly where this is located, or even if it's on the main cliff band. GPS coords of 37.740548,-122.442921 were provided, but that's further down the canyon in a non-rocky area.

Up using large flat edges (avoid the jugs for added value).

Exposed left hand finish to 'The Corner'. Think light thoughts as you pass the "surfboard".

Up the slippery slickenside on small sharp crimps, or awkward, but easier climbing up the crack on the right (V1). Either downclimb the corner to the left, or follow the crack right around the bulge to a highball mantle. Bad landing.

Watch the rock behind.

Excellent - takes in the best climbing of the Traverse. Harder variant stays low when traversing right.

A line of micro edges leads straight up to the fencepost to the right of the crack. The holds are small and painful, but the rock quality is good enough. The Bay Area Rock guide lists this as 5.11+, but it's probably harder.

Good introductory problem.

The obvious crack at the left hand side of the caves.

At the painted arrow. Hard, highball and with a bad landing - toprope recommended.

Slaps up the steep, blunt arete, then drop from the jug. Can be extended by starting further right (V6).

The blunt prow left of the V Chimney.

Start at the far left hand end of the lower wall and traverse right to finish up Roof Arete. Can be continued all the way along the Main Cliff Band at an easier grade.

The bulging prow just right of the crack, with two heinous old bolts hanging out of it. This route is NOT safe to lead.

Take care not to damage the ferns.

Up the slippery inverted V chimney, then up the crack above. Top rope recommended.

The classic introductory Glen Park problem.

Please be gentle with the lower right-hand starting crimp - it has started getting slightly wobbly in recent years. In particular don't try to wobble it, and don't use it as a foothold!

Straight up from a flat edge just above head height.

Start just right of 'Unnamed 1', head up to the high cave, then exit diagonally left.

Through the high double overhang left of 'Lulu', via the well-chalked shallow undercling. Sustained, highball and with a bad landing - toprope strongly recommended. Also watch the rock at the bottom - some large holds ripped off in the late 2000s and some of what's left is loose.

Usually done left to right.

The prominent arete in the middle of the cliffline. Has a manky piton toprope anchor - bring gear and slings to back it up. The start has a tendency to get overgrown with poison oak.