Vie come trad in Carson Pass

Easiest access to the top, but has some exposed moves and tends to be dirty. Recommended that you wear climbing shoes for this.

At times there has been a hand-rope dropped down this, attached to the bolts on top. As with all fixed gear, treat it with suspicion.

Major right facing corner on the right hand side of the dome.

Slab route to the right of Gemini Cracks, and also the rappel descent for that and nearby routes.

1. 30m 5.10a. Up the blocky corner (watch out for wasps), and up a tricky laybacking section to the roof. Traverse right under the roof until below the first bolt. Pull over the roof, clip the bolt then up the slab (2nd bolt) to a hanging belay on chains.

2. 30m 5.10c. Up a well protected face past 7 bolts to another hanging belay on chains. Can rappel to the ground from here on double 60m ropes.

3. 15m 5.10a. Short pitch past 3 bolts to hanging belay on chains. Can be linked with P4.

4. 30m 5.10b/c. As for 'Gemini Cracks' P4, but using the right hand crack only - a bit contrived, but awesome nonetheless (take lots of finger-size gear). Shared belay on chains.

5. 30m 5.10a R. Cross over Gemini Cracks (which goes right at this point) and trend slightly left up the face above, passing spaced bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

Rappel the route with double ropes (60m recommended).

To get to the start, look for a ledge system about 50' down from the aqueduct, under a large oak tree, and follow it past a step-across until you're below the obvious slab with bolts.

Cruxy start with mediocre small gear (can be avoided via the chossy trench on the right), to pleasant slab climbing past 5 bolts and a variety of small to mid-size gear to join the original route at the first belay (natural anchor).

Much better than the original P1.

A classic! Pitch 4 is the money pitch, with a superb moderate crack way up in the sky.

The best way to do this route is to link 'Gemini Cracks Direct Start' into P2 of 'Gemini Cracks' into 'Gemini Cracks Variant P3' into P4 of 'Gemini Cracks', then rappel from there.

1. 40m 5.0. Up a non-descript V-chute to a small ledge with trees (natural anchor). Watch out for poison oak.

2. 20m 5.8 A0 / 5.10c. Nice corner and crack up rock scar to roof. Pull on a #4 cam to get into offwidth trench, then easily past small tree to double bolt hanging belay (with slings and a rap ring).

3. 40m 5.7. Continue up the crack to a pod (button head just above - possible to belay here), then follow the nice discontinuous cracks right to a hanging belay on chains.

4. 30m 5.8. The pitch you came for! Up the awesome twin splitter cracks (mostly climbing the left hand one) to a chain belay. Most people descend from here, as P5 isn't worth doing and descending from the top of the dome is more difficult.

5. 30m 5.4. Move right along crack to tree then easily up crack system. 4th class except for one move near the top (stay roped up).

Rappel descent is down 'Smoke Screen' - double ropes are required and 2x60m ropes are recommended (can descend in 2 long rappels with double 60s).

1. 35m 5.8 From the P2 belay on Gemini Cracks, go left on the hero undercling flake (#4 / #3.5 cams), and up a lovely easy crack on the left hand side. Belay at chains on top of the flake.

2. 30m 5.2 Move right on broken blocks (watch for the rope getting hooked up) then up nice discontinuous cracks to rejoin original route at the chains below P4.

With a 60m rope, it's also (just) possible to link pitch 2 all the way to the top of 'Gemini Cracks' P4. In this case the second should clip into the P1 anchor with long slings, so they can give the leader as much rope as possible.

Better than the original P3.

The obvious left-leaning splitter right about where you reach the cliff, with two new bolts leading up a slab to the start of the crack.

1. 25m 5.8 Up the slab (2 bolts) to the crack, then following the crack to a chain belay. This pitch can be top-roped, but directionals are strongly recommended to avoid big swings.

2. 25m 5.6 Walk right on the ledge (may be worth moving the belay) until you reach a pleasant little left facing corner crack. Up this to belay on the diagonal ramp.

4th class descent down the ramp to the left.