Vie in Maine

From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb straight up, aiming for 15' tall right facing corner with hand crack (crux). Climb big undercling flake to large wedged block at start of short left facing corner. Climb carefully past this block (it shifts on occasion), to belay ledge. Make 2 raps to ground.

a good warm up, hand traverse the lip and exit the broken rock on the left side.

Start as for Trotsky. Head up & left after triangular hole @ 15 feet, avoid using right facing flake next to short left facing corner. Using this flake & corner makes the climb considerably easier (it's the crux of Trotsky). Pull over slightly overhanging juggy flakes to a no-hands rest just below the slab crux. Follow shallow corner to crack to large ledge. Build belay in horizontal crack at back of ledge OR place a directional, traverse right along ledge and finish up 6 foot tall wide crack to ledge. Build anchor in vertical crack.