Vie in New Hampshire

Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors.

Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors.

To the right of the obvious Centerpiece corner, Masterpiece begins in the steepest section of the wall. Stick clip a hard-to-see first clip (on a left-facing block) with a long draw to avoid backclipping on the way up. Jug haul on steep rock until an unobvious crux between the second and third bolts. Move quickly to pull the ledge above the steep section. From here, face climb a bit before moving around a large, jutting bulge. Climb up into a tight section where an overhang presses you down from above. Traversing left of this and onto a slabby face between two large boulders, stem or jam up between the boulders to gain the anchors.

Watch out for sucker holds on the way up.

Anchors: Quick Clips

A classic 5.10a with fun, varied climbing the whole way. A must-do!

One of the best routes of its grade at Rumney. On Jimmy Right, it's the rightmost route that follows a blunt arret up to some tricky moves along the face. Small holds and small feet make this one a bit of a puzzle. Rounded crack lines require a bit of searching for good purchase. Don't go too far right around the corner, or you'll find yourself up shit creek without a paddle. To get to the anchors, choose between going right to undercling a large flake, or left, using a series of easy cracks to gain the anchors. Fantastic route and quite popular, but absolutely worth it.

1. From a small clearing with slopping blocky section which includes a small semi-detached pillar, aim for the fixed 3x bong anchor.

2. Traverse right to the bolted belay/rap anchor, the bigger horizontal crack holds gear, but it's also the best thing to use as a ramp for your feet... can be very spooky/exposed/run-out.

3. Head straight up the face, pulling the large flakes, up the corner with the tree, belay with natural pro on the ledge.

4. Go straight up from the little cave and do a balancy move to the left flake, head up the easiest path, past a 2 tree doulble ledge and up a ramp to the left up to the base of aireation buttress.

For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse.

On the far right side of Jimmy, but to the left of Lonesome Dove (blunt arret). Start up the slab to some tricky moves that allow you to gain the finger crack. Follow the crack up, using some sweet layback moves over a bulge at the top that will leave you feeling quite exposed.

Watch out that your rope doesn't get stuck in the finger crack near the top.

Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees.

The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon".

Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.)

Climb the bolted face between the chimney and the crack.

Climb the blunt corner below the railway ties, easier if you go around the corner to the left at times, more difficult (maybe 5.8) straight up the bolts.

Starts at an obvious flake jutting out of the ground. A bit run-out after the last bolt to the anchors, but easier terrain.

Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area.

Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section.

Starts at the edge of the blocky ground on the right.

Go up the slab.

Up the obvious terraces to a steeper upper face.

This climbs the obvious right-facing arch up the cliff, then up through (crux) overlaps and finishing on the upper slabs. From near the center base of the slabs:

Pitch 0: 45m (5.0?) Scramble 150ft up an easy depression to the starting ledge.

1. 24m (5.3) From the right end of the starting ledge, friction up and right to a large pothole called the Toilet Bowl. Two bolt anchor. (Be careful, the bowl is often wet inside, where you stand... and leading friction with wet shoes is exciting.)

2. 27m (5.2) Up and left past a flake to good ledges at the base of the obvious arch. Double ring bolt anchor.

3. 42m (5.4) Climb up the arch, gentle laybacks to a possible piton & gear semi-hanging belay. (Or combine with next pitch on a 70m rope.)

4. 28m (5.2) Continue up and right along the arch and up easy slabs to a sloping belay stance on fixed slings around a natural thread anchor.

5. 44m (5.3) Continue up easy slabs up and right to the end of the arch, then up easy climbing at the natural break in the head wall to the Lunch Ledge. 2 Bolt anchor.

6. 45m (5.5) The crux pitch: up 15' from the right end of the Lunch Ledge, one friction move right to a bolt, down climb a ramp for 10', step right onto a brownish spot foothold, to another bolt, then delicate slab onto a left-diaganolling ramp. Possibly belay here (rope-drag issues later) or continue up the ramp to a short layback corner. (Nut anchor.)

7. 25m (5.2) Friction 40' left traversing an easy slab beneath an overlap to an easy dike, then up to the comfortable ledge above. (Tree belay, or nut.)

8. 43m (5.2 or 5.5). Follow the easy, stepped, dike up to the left of a tree to an overlap, bypass on the left to a tree ledge (5.2 R) or climb directly over the ledge at a double crack (protectable, one 5.5 move).

9. 70m (5.2 R) Finish up the upper slabs to trees, following either of the two upper dikes. The easier is up the left-hand that has a bolt without hangar visible from the belay, and then a second later bolt. (With less than a 70m rope, either belay somewhere, possible the bolt, possibly the later gear placement, or possibly trees off to the left about 2/3 way up -- or simul-climb for a bit.)

Walk off to the (climber's) right.

Two pitches that can be done in one pitch of some of the easiest climbing you'll do all day. The view from the top can't be beat, though, and is worth the little jaunt. Two lowers are needed, however, or walk off to the left down a forested trail.

Go to Jimmy left, and then keep going left. You'll reach some big, clean slabs that seem to go on for days. The line of bolts starts from the lowest point on the wall and travels basically straight up from there. Bolts are spaced far apart, as the easy slab climbing could be done in running shoes. Stone is grippy and the path goes over some bulgy bits to the top. Fantastic views!!

Climb the easy-angled jug-haul up the face to the right of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" climbs.

This line goes up and rightwards up a less than vertical face parallelling the edge of the wall as it drops off into a bit of a gully.

Be careful top-roping this route -- a fall can easily swing off the route into the gully, and even following has some risk.

Hard start off the ground, then rest is easier.

Despite the name, only 5.7.

Climb the obvious crack with ledges up to lower-offs. Very good protection with generally good stances to place it from.

Climb the first pitch of Pleasant Street, and from the tree, get over the lip and onto the dike on the right. Follow the not so obvious first moves toward the very obvious left slanting crack.

The first pitch (5.6 R) is a good mental test for the leader on the unprotected but beatiful slab/dike.

The second pitch (5.8) is a must-do for any crack climber, and everyone else. The well protected crack offers perfect conditions to practice jams, calf endurance and pain tolerance (tapping might be a good idea, although not necessary). Be ready to experience the polished slab that offers slippery foot placements and weird-angled hand jams before going up and on the small slab/crimps crux at the end, before enjoying the bliss of a good belay and a wonderful view at the top, while you recover from the experience!

Starts on a ledge. Two ways to get there:

• scramble left along the ledge from Underdog et al. Has an awkward VB downclimb.

• climb 'The Maltese Falcon' and top out

Climb the obvious chimney then head left and up to the anchors. One of the longer routes at the parking lot wall, fun if the start isn't wet.

A good rewarding, though not sustained route up the slabs. There are but a few moves of 5.5, and only a few sections of 5.4 climbing -- most of the climbing is 5.3 and easier. But, often with long run-outs at the easier grades, requiring confident leading at that grade. The "Standard Route" is a better-protected choice.

Start below a large isolated pine tree about 35m up near the right side of the slabs.

1. 120ft (5.2). Climb the easy slab to a 2 ring-bolt anchor left of the pine tree.

2. 140ft (5.4) From the anchor follow a vertical crack over the left side of an overlap, then up a narrow vertical dike up a steeper slab past 2 bolts to a small stance with 2 ring-bolts on the left.

3. 110ft (5.1 R). Continue up an easy low-angled groove to another double-bolt anchor.

4. 90ft (5.2) Follow a prominent right-slanting arch until it ends at a double-bolt anchor above a small flake.

5. 140ft (5.5, 5.4R) Step up from the anchor through the headwall (5.5) then up and left (5.4 R) to and past a few hidden pockets (gear!) then up to a Grinch-face belay ledge with double-bolt anchor.

6. 100ft (5.4). Go up and right into a left-facing groove with a lay-back flake, then up the flake for about 50ft. Then step up and right, then up a 20-foot head wall with old pitons. Belay on a good ledge just above the head wall , and below the last big overlap.

7. 100ft (5.3). Traverse left from the anchor past a detach block to a gently rising ramp, then past an old bolt (good for route-finding an keep the rope off the ledge, but wouldn't trust it to catch a fall). Continue until you can break right on good holds through the overlap then up to a tree anchor.

8. 4th class. Follow the obvious dike up the next section of slab.

9. 4th class (one 5.1 move). Follow the dike diagonally up and right through the next section of slab.

10. 4th class (a couple 5.0 moves). Friction up the easy slab to the summit. One slightly steep friction section.

The last three pitches are usually climbed un-roped as a scramble.

9 Bolts to LO. Start behind a double-trunked oak, and climb the nice face past Rumney-style pockets.

Climb the line of glue-in bolts to the left of the big flake/chimney that "Glory Jean's" ascends. Anchors are hidden from the ground, but up and left of the (visible) anchors for "Glory Jean's".

Route is often wet, but good climbing if dry.

Start up some un-protected but easy slab to the left-leaning flake and follow the flake to bolted anchors. Generally well-protected except the start.

Climb up to, left, and around the obvious left-edged flake.

Starts up an easy scramble to a dihedral in the quartzite; exiting right near the top of the dihedral to the last bolt before the anchor is the crux.

The section with the anchor fell off in 2013. Apparently in a climbable state as of 2021.

Climbs up the intimidating overhanging arete at the left side of Bonsai. A seated rest halfway lets you prepare for the final haul through the crux.

Your redpoint can be significantly easier if someone hangs a long draw on bolt #6 before your attempt.

Climb the slab to, then up the obvious left-facing chimney in the middle of the cliff. Well (if not over-) bolted.

Right hand bolt line leading up off the ledge. First bolt is a bit high (though over easy ground), so belayer may with to anchor to the tree to the right. Technical on the early part of the face, then more powerful near the end.

A short face climb just left of the boulder leaning against the wall.