Vie in Stati Uniti d' America del grado selezionato

To the right of the obvious Centerpiece corner, Masterpiece begins in the steepest section of the wall. Stick clip a hard-to-see first clip (on a left-facing block) with a long draw to avoid backclipping on the way up. Jug haul on steep rock until an unobvious crux between the second and third bolts. Move quickly to pull the ledge above the steep section. From here, face climb a bit before moving around a large, jutting bulge. Climb up into a tight section where an overhang presses you down from above. Traversing left of this and onto a slabby face between two large boulders, stem or jam up between the boulders to gain the anchors.

Watch out for sucker holds on the way up.

Anchors: Quick Clips

A classic 5.10a with fun, varied climbing the whole way. A must-do!

One of the best routes of its grade at Rumney. On Jimmy Right, it's the rightmost route that follows a blunt arret up to some tricky moves along the face. Small holds and small feet make this one a bit of a puzzle. Rounded crack lines require a bit of searching for good purchase. Don't go too far right around the corner, or you'll find yourself up shit creek without a paddle. To get to the anchors, choose between going right to undercling a large flake, or left, using a series of easy cracks to gain the anchors. Fantastic route and quite popular, but absolutely worth it.

Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing.

Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4".

3 pitches of crappy climbing to lead to the most spectacular summit ever!!!

1. 35m (5.8 A0 or 5.10) Up the easy boulders (5.5). Some parties belay here with cams to reduce rope drag. Move left to steeper climbing up a thin face, 4 bolts, pull on draws for 5.8, or go free for 5.10. DBB.

2. 30m (5.8) Mud Chimney - The only real climbing on the route. Plenty of cam options plus one old manky bolts. TBB on spacey ledge.

3. 10m (5.7 A0 or 5.10) Short pitch to gain the summit area. 4 bolts well placed to pull through, climbing free it's slightly easier on the left at the top. Top out on the start of the walkway. TBB.

4. 20m (5.8) What you came here for!!! Balance your way across the unprotected walkway, with 600ft of air either side! Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board to find your first bolt. 5.7 moves up the skinny tower lead to 2 more bolts out to the right. Awkward move over bulge or pull on draws, then top out and get an awesome photo!!! The last pro is the multitude of slings/ropes, but 3rd/4th class terrain to the top.

Protection: single set of Camalots #0.5 to #3 (double 0.75 and 1 optional), some quick draws, and four to six long (24") slings.

To descend, get lowered from the summit block from the multitude of tat, then walk back to the belay. Rappel back to the top of the chimney. Then, 2x60m ropes reach the ground from here, or, with 1x60m rope just rappel reversing the route.

Optional 3" cam protects moves below the first bolt.

There is a two bolt anchor at the top.

The nice face left of the cracks with obvious chalked holds and feet. Anchor below the small roof.

The most popular route here and most likely the one you will find people on. Starts at the main "cave" in the middle of lower tier and follows the left side of the bolts (which are all solid.) The right side of the bolts offers a slightly harder variation. Fine technical face climbing with good edges everywhere. Easily top roped with 2 bolt anchor on top.

Protection Quickdraws for leading, 15 - 20' sling to extend top rope over edge.

Fabulous steep jam crack from narrow hand to offwidth. Pro to 6" with doubles to 3". Two rope rappel.

Start with the flake and follow the left line of bolts.

Hard start off the ground, then rest is easier.

Shares last bolts and anchor with Eight Flake.

Left hand side of the Terrace Wall. Wanders around a bit and then up through jugs to slight flake and up.

Descend carefully via 100' rappel followed by 4th class downclimbing.

Gorgeous varied finger crack up a very open corner, let down only a little by its rock quality.

Clip the second bolt before committing to the overhang if possible.

Balancy slab, carefully pad your way up. first and second bolts watch out for the barn door.

The section with the anchor fell off in 2013. Apparently in a climbable state as of 2021.

Climb diagonally up rightwards to the obvious crack splitting the large varnished area on the front of the cliff.

Climbs the center line on the tallest part of the main wall. Step across to two good crimps, then work straight up the vertical varnish face along a series of breaks. Work through the break and onto the high angle slab above, and work this to the anchor.

The opening move is harder than 10a, then it's maybe 5.8.

Has a little of everything Smith has to offer: bouldery start, into huecos, some pockets and finishes on nubbins. Was graded 5.9. Huecos near the bottom are tricky. Lots of pockets and knobs.

Boulder crux right off the ground then big holds. There are two sets of anchors for this climb. If you stop at the first, it is 5.9, if you go to the second it's 5.10c.