Ascensioni in World da Rui Fonseca che possiede sport-cpr o ascent-date

Amazing route, slight overhang start on good holds and feet, and cool moves to get over the roof on undercling tufa and a crack with jugs. First try I got really optimised beta and did all the moves resting once on the first fixed draw. On the second and third attempts I fell around the same spot, on the crimp just bellow the roof and going up to the undercling tufa. On the fourth attempt I managed to get the undercling and get my feet up, right hand to the crack and shift the weight there, left hand also in and go again with the right hand in the crack jugs, to then get the left hand pocket but in that moment I felt I was going to lose it, my left foot was badly placed and overall in an awkward position but somehow managed to get my right foot up (and at the same time I found my power scream - "MERDAAA" ) and go right hand shoulder to the holds to the right, which were very wet as it was raining that day (but everything up to there was dry) but managed to hold on and get into the rest position and clip the second fixed draw from there (which was already bellow my waist). From there it was only a few easy slabby moves to the top. Super excited with my send as I was not expecting it, first 7b send after only getting the first 7a send 3 weeks ago

Very cool movement on vertical wall with crimps and side pulls and underclings.

Fun start on jugs with an amazing rest, then an interesting crux that was quite easy to figure out, and then the route kinda ends, on the top there are some cool holds but the protection is quite bad, you could easily hit the ledge bellow. Also a lot friction on the rope and places where rope goes against sharp edges.

First 7a route sent! The second go was much easier after cleaning the herbs and some holds and going in the right sequence. This route is a classic of Reguengo - pretty high, 40 degree overhang and amazing jugs, and even some no hands kneebar rest.

Tried the moves on top rope. The start is a very powerful boulder, then moves into a technical section with two parallel tufas. After there's a slab with long moves but good holds. Then I couldn't reach the last bolt as I was too pumped

Checked out the moves on the first three quickdraws, then it gets really hard

Cool boulder on a crack on overhang terrain. Onsighted through the crack.

Started with the first two clips in since the hard boulder is right at the start. Fell on my first try with a foot slip, then got it on the second try but probably not with the best beta

Send on the second go 💪 didn't waste time, breathed well and moved fast. Confirmation of my max grade 6c+

One of the best slabs in Reguengo. Tried some moves of the route on top rope over one year ago. Now it felt easy on the first attempt.

Climbed the first 3 draws as part of warm up (easy climbing on big holds). Then I tried to climb a bit more, did the moves for the next two draws but couldn't get past the one where you have both hands on ear like holds.

Boulder start, middle and finish. After the last quickdraw to the top I went left hand to a bad hold, then went again to another one just as bad, and then left again to a bad diagonal crimp, and almost lost it but managed to get my feet up and miraculously gave it a last push to find the better holds on the top of the route. Then on the way down I looked at the holds and found a much easier sequence.

Amazing route, with a crux sequence on some bad crimps after the 'helmet', but after it is possible to fully rest with no hands by using a kneebar

Nice route on the longer end, the first half is easy with only one or two tricky moves, then you get to rest before the roof section to finish. Some big holds to clip the last quickdraw, but the last moves before the anchor are the most demanding ones, I got quite pumped but found some sequence that worked.

Very cool route, especially the roof moves. The top part of the route was a bit dirty with a lot of moss.

Warm up route. Finally sent it, took 3 different attempts over one year.

One of the best 6b's I have done. Not so difficult climbing at the start, then some interesting moves until the big ledge where you can fully rest. From there it is the crux with 2/3 moves on crimps while overhang.

Very nice climbing. Easy start until the middle, then slight overhang and good holds all the way to the top. Good to get pumped and warm up. Well protected and good falls.

2nd go

One of the best slab routes I have ever climbed

Rainy day so not a lot of routes to choose from. Intense moves on bad holds. Good footholds though.

Amazing route! First part is easy but can get you pumped if not done perfectly since they are some big moves. After the 3rd draw the crux starts, the sequence for me was high left foot, cross left hand to pocket, switch feet and get a tiny right foot, and reach the ear like hold with the right hand, then raise right foot again to a small crack to bump the right hand to the hold right above which is a jug, and clip the draw there. Then there is another easier crux, going with left hand to a small and hidden but deep two finger pocket, and then a few more moves to reach the top. On my both attempts from the ground I feel on the left hand cross move.

Didn't like the exposed route base

Similar to "El amigo de las ninas", easy start into the crux a slabby sequence with some bad sloppy crimps, almost dropped it as the rock was hot as I was out of chalk in my hands. Then you still have to do some moves on okayish holds until you get a jug and can finally breath again. Then you still have a couple more meters of good holds but can get you tired.

Second send to retrieve the quickdraws. Instead of finishing through the crack I went right to the slab instead after the last bolt.

Some loose rocks there, beware of a big rock marked with a cross made of chalk

Interesting power crux at the beginning, but it is not very well protected there, if I read the route correctly (big move from 1st bolt jug to the right to a big hold). It would be best to have a clip stick and start with the second bolt clipped

The holds of start moves are great, then on the crux there are some technical moves on a traverse to the right, important to keep the body position balanced just right while holding the right edge.

Probably the best route I have climbed in the Valongo area. Aesthetic line with amazing holds from start to finish

Okay holds but weird moves

Coming back to this route after having the first session one month ago. First try was to remember the moves and holds. Crux sequence was easy to repeat.

I had to get back on the route to retrieve my quickdraws after the last climber fell on the last quickdraw and failed to get back on the route. I chose to go on top rope since it's much easier and faster to get the bottom draws. Then when I reached the fifth draw, I added an additional one clipped to the belayer end of the rope, so that I was always climbing with at least two bolts clipped.

Second attempt I went more serious, but didn't the the foot position perfect in the first draws and ended up using a lot of energy, and fell going for the undercling hold. After resting for a bit, the moves to the top were fine. Then I worked on the crux sequence, I first tried doing the left shoulder move, right foot and right hand directly to the platform instead of using the pocket. Then I also tried the dynamic beta, jumping from the sloppy crimps to the platform. I chose to stick with the original beta of going static and using the pocket. Then I also worked on the moves after the third quickdraw. There are two pockets there, I was using the right one as a shoulder hold, but then I found the left smaller pocket much better since it also makes for a good body position for the next moves.

On the third attempt it was my best one so far, with the refined pocket beta and better foothold on the third draw, but then on the forth draw I messed up a bit and wasted a lot of energy. Still I was able to get the undercling and get to the fifth draw, and tried to rest on the hold that you clip the draw. Got some air but I was already close to the limit, I did a couple moves, got the good left hand before the slopers and tried to clip the last draw but I failed to clip and took a fall. After resting for a bit I reached the top.

Hard start. Did the sequence through the front face on micro crimps which should be harder than 6a. The other way is through the left on bigger holds.

Easy start right into the crux on the bulge. Bouldery sequence to get over it, and then amazing climb on jugs to the top

I tried Bola Forçada last week, but this time Pedro wanted us to go to Tubarão com pêlo because it was a long standing project of his that almost got him an injury. The first attempt was to figure out the beta, Pedro went first and got some help from some friends then I went to try it: The first moves in the first and second clip are straightforward. Then with the right hand on a big hold you clip the third. Then burly part starts: left hand pocket hove the bolt, then on the right there are a multiple right hand holds, you keep bumping your right hand and raising your feet. When the last one is reached, you spot a deep crimp to left on a blank face, left hand to it, change feet and cross with the right hand to a jug, match and clip the 4th draw. Then you get a right hand shoulder vertical slot, feet really high and get a hidden undercling crack with left hand, after raising the body you clip the 5th bolt and right hand to above and right of the bolt. Then there are a series of holds to the left, and pocket a bit more up and to the left which with will give you the final moves to get out of the roof. My refined sequence was left hand full crimp, right hand cross on a big hole above it, left hand bump across the edge to a good hold, left foot really high to a small platform and reach the pocket with the left hand, and then reach with the right hand to the holds above the roof. After a couple moves there is a good left hand hold with a thumb where you can clip the last bolt with the legs spread out. Then it is slab on good holds to reach the top.

On the last attempt, I messed up the sequence after the 3rd bolt with my right hand a bit, and made me waste a bit of energy. Doing the cross move was not so comfortable, and I was already feeling a bit tired. Then when I reached the crimp sequence I completely messed it up a gave up as I was out of energy. After resting for a bit and brushing the holds I sent the crux sequence easily. The send go will need to be on another day

On the second attempt it was probably my best in the session, I flowed easily to the fifth draw, but clipped it with my right hand above it instead of using the undercling which is better, and then I didn't have the crimp sequence dialed, I struggled and managed to get the left hand pocket to get out of the roof but I was getting too pumped and didn't get my left foot high enough so I took a fall there. After resting for a bit and brushing the holds I tried another beta, going down on the crimps and then you can get into a position with big foot holds and okay hands, and you could rest in that position, but I am not strong enough to do that, I was not getting any energy back in my arms, plus then you need to do a couple moves to reach the pocket hold (which you can do it with right hand though, which makes to move to get over the roof easier) so I discarded this beta for now.

On my second attempt I was feeling better and more warm. I nailed the start until I clipped the forth draw, then I messed up the hand and foot sequence and because of that I got the left undercling too low and with only two fingers and fell. After a rest I repeated the moves much better, and clipped the the 5th and last draw and got to the start of the boulder problem but I was feeling pumped already, and doing the move to the left gaston crack hold I stayed with my body too low and couldnt get my right foot up. After a rest and brushing the holds, I repeated the sequence easily and got the top. The hardest part was then cleaning the route - I was pumped and with the knot very tight, I spent a lot of time to untie it, then since the route is overhang and tilted to the left it is hard to get the draws out below the middle of the route. Overall I was very pleased with my attempt and the route, definitely coming back another time.

Decided to try this route with a friend as the draws were already placed. My plan was to just checkout the moves and it went pretty well. The first draw is easy, then a vertical hold and a tufa gets you the second draw, right hand up to the side hold and left to the jug where the third draw is clipped. I then fell going to the gaston right pocket as I didn't see it. After a rest I climbed the next moves to get the jug and clip the 4th draw, then you get a left undercling with really high foots, to get another jug to clip the firth draw, after a few more moves I was too pumped and fell. Then I studied the holds and figured out how to use the right jug next to the tufa, to get a high foot and clip the final draw before the top. I did a coupled more moves but fell again. I then tried the next section, which is basically a boulder problem from two slopper holds, left hand to a small crack, a right hand small two finger pocket above, and then the final jug to the left. On the first try I got the left crack wrong as you need to get it with the shoulder and fell, but got it on the second try, high right foot to get the pocket and finally the jug. Overall the route has good holds, but it's overhang and the foot placement is the key from start to finish.