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Routes as sport in Vancouver Island

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 246 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
North Vancouver Island Wapiti Valley/Greyback Peak
5.10b A0 Wapiti Mainline Sport 13
5.10d Forever Sport 11
South Vancouver Island Mt MacDonald Main Wall
5.11c Optional Contusion

Sustained 10c/d moves until the final crank fest 12draws

Sport 22m, 12
5.11a Zombie apocalypse

a strenuous start puts you into the crack a few moves later you are at the crux with its hidden holds and thin feet

Sport 22m, 12
5.10c new route for old men Sport 14m, 8
5.11b Doodle Big Sport 8
5.9 One50 Sport
5.9 Irish Bear Sport
5.10a BigMac Sport
5.10c Andy's Here Sport
5.9 Vampire in the Sun

Start at the base of the bulging slab -- a couple of shared bolts with 10c to the left.

Fun climbing on some good holds -- nothing tricky, but the sun can be in your eyes at certain times of the day. Two rap-rings for anchors at the top.

FA: Andy Agopsowics

Sport 25m, 12
South Vancouver Island Mt MacDonald Cinema
5.11c Cannis suspendus Sport
South Vancouver Island Mt MacDonald Big overhang
5.10- Brave Bear

A bit run out up high.

Sport 29m, 12
South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) Sport cliff
5.10c Dirty Dream

Second bolted line from the left to the right The climb looks easier than it is. Last moves are very interesting. Sits directly to climbers left of the Your Mom’s Wet Hole

FA: Adam revit

Sport 10m, 3
5.11a Your moms wet hole

Third bolted line from the left to the right The climb has pre hung draws on chains which is a very nice touch. Lots of fun big moves, however the rock is still very sharp and will punish the

overly dynamic. The anchor is one ‘biner at the lip of the roof. Not some- thing regularly seen, but there’s no need to climb higher once it’s clipped.

The interesting moniker for the route followed from a crucial hold being very wet around the time of the FA, according to Graham Proulx.

FA: Graham proulx

Sport 10m, 6
5.8 Over the top

Fourth bolted line moving left to right. Neat little stemming section to the first clip & easy climbing to the top.

Stem through a cool chimney to start, once through the chimney scram- ble up an easy thin low angle ramp along a good crack to the top. Hard

to call it 5.8, maybe 5.7.A little run out. ffa pat lynam

Sport 11m, 4
5.11a Learn to grow

Fifth climb when moving from left to right along the cliff. Cool water formed geology. Fun climb, many options.

Sport 11m, 4
5.13b Unknown Climb

6th climb when moving from left to right along the cliff. Right of the cave you’ll see 3 bolts. Hardest part is seemingly before the 1st bolt. Very overhanging & bouldery!

Sport 11m, 3
5.10c Dirty dream`

Dirty Dream 5.10c 3 bolts FA: Adam Revit 11 metres Second bolted line from the left to the right The climb looks easier than it is. Last moves are very interesting. Sits directly to climbers left of the Your Mom’s Wet Hole

Sport 11m, 3
5.10a crocodile rock

Crocodile Rock 5.10a 4 bolts FA: Adam Revit 11 metres Left most bolted line Interesting rock and fun moves. Utilize stemming while in crack at bottom of the climb. Potential ground fall between 2nd and 3rd bolt, a diligent belay helps. Good to be tall on

this climb! Lot’s of gear left behind on this climb since people don’t com- mit to the mantle. There’s holds there - look for ‘em.

Sport 11m, 4
South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake)
5.10a Crocodile Rock

Left most bolted line Interesting rock and fun moves. Utilize stemming while in crack at bottom of the climb. Potential ground fall between 2nd and 3rd bolt, a diligent belay helps.

FA: adam revit

Sport 11m, 4
5.10c Dirty Dream

FA: adam revit

Sport 11m, 3
5.11a Your mom's wet hole

FA: yannick neufeld

Sport 11m, 6
5.8 Over the top

FA: pat lynam

Sport 11m, 4
5.11a learn to grow

FA: graham prolux

Sport 11m, 5
5.13b unknown climb
Sport 11m, 3
South Vancouver Island East Sooke Park The Coliseum
5.11d M n M Sport
5.12d Desperados Sport
5.13b Highway Robbery Sport
5.13b/c Sidelined Sport
South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag Dirt Stamp Wall
5.8 Going Solo

First climb on climbers left on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade. After putting in the anchors and running out of battery power for the drill, Seanathon decided to still send the route sans bolts. (Free Solo)

FA: Seanathon, 24 Apr 2016

Sport 4
5.8 Easy Does It

This is the second route, climber's right of Going Solo, on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade.

FA: Seanathon, 24 Apr 2016

Sport 4
5.8 Soft on Soft

Follow the black streak directly up and slightly left, staying left of bolt line. We should have named this one bolt ladder! A little miscommunication between myself and my bolting partner resulted in the abundance of bolts. A super great climb to learn to lead.

FA: Seanathon, 21 Jun 2015

Sport 7
5.10c The Bat

Retro bolted climb. Like the name says, there is one crux move at 5.10c. A fun route none the less.

Found out this route was originally called "The Bat 5.10d" FA by Julian Mclean. It only had one bolt and no anchors.

FA: Julian Mclean, 1992

Sport 5
5.11b Sharing is Caring

It is climbers right of The Bat and shares its anchors.

Sport
5.8 Dirt Stamp

Props to Crystal for helping us clean this route and being the inspiration for the name of the climb.

FA: Seanathon, 21 Jun 2015

Sport 7
5.9 Dirty Looks Never Climbed So Clean

This climb starts climbers right of Dirt Stamp 5.8. If you do not have a long reach, then the first crux starts right off the ground while getting to the right hand jug (right of the first bolt). The crux continues until you clip the second draw and get over the first bulge. You then follow the crack system top the top of the wall.

FA: Seanathon, 17 Aug 2018

Sport 6
South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag Karate Kid Wall
5.8 Eight Litre Buckets

A really neat route that has big huecos on it from water runoff.

FA: Seanathon, 20 Aug 2015

Sport 8
5.10a Just a Bit of Crack

This route can be accessed by taking the right fork on the approach trail or from the Dirt Stamp Wall via the fixed line down to the Karate Kid Wall. Starts on black slabby rock, trend left to a bulge, then climb the thin crack up to the first set of anchors. Or climb past them and clip the Eight Litre Buckets’s anchors to get to the top of Dirt Stamp Wall.

FA: Seanathon, 20 Aug 2015

Sport 8
5.9 Wax On

Some nice jugs to start on almost vertical wall before a slab finish.

FA: Seanathon, 24 May 2015

Sport 7
5.11b Wax Off

Starts on jugs to the right of Wax On. At the second bolt make a difficult move up and right, to the crack system under the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt and make some fun moves gets you through the overhang. You will now be on the ledge and about to start the technical crux before topping out.

FA: Seanathon, 17 Sep 2018

Sport 7
5.12c Feel the Fingers

This climb starts 2 metres climbers left of Stop Waxing Off Direct 5.11a. The first 3 bolts have sustained bouldery moves, and then it relaxes to the top. Has anchor rings.

FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 20 Jun 2019

Sport 13m, 5
5.11a Stop Waxing Off Direct

This is located climbers left of Stop Waxing Off. It goes straight up through to the SWO anchors. Some tricky bouldery moves down low, lead to a moderate top.

FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 14 Oct 2018

Sport 6
5.10d Stop Waxing Off

Furthest climb to climber's right on Karate Kid Wall. Burly overhang start to slab finish. The top is no longer runout as we added a 5th bolt. 9/23/18

FA: Seanathon, 22 May 2015

Sport 5
5.10b When the Sensei is Away, the Boys Will Play

This climb is climber’s right of Stop Waxing Off. It starts on a big jug down and right of the first bolt and climbs left up a series of good holds until a tricky set of moves below the mini roof sets you up for a fun mantel. Finish directly above using the big flake or the crack system.

FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 6 Oct 2018

Sport 5
South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag Upper Karate Kid Wall
5.8 Climbing in Someone Else's Shoes

You access this climb from the big anchor ledge of Karate Kid Wall. It begins above and to the right of the anchors of Wax Off 5.11b. It is the first climb to get to the highest point of the Glen Lake Crags. It can be accessed as a second pitch from any of the Karate Kid Wall climbs.

FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 14 Apr 2019

Sport 8
South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag The Umbrage Wall
5.7 More Crack Please

Traverse in from the trail to get to the start of this line. Some nice jug climbing gets you up to a small, beautiful crack that we wished went from the bottom of the route to the top. It is the first line bolted on this wall.

FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 21 Oct 2018

Sport 5
5.6 High on Jugs?

• The furthest most line on the right-hand side of the wall. Start on the large V rails and make your way up a series of big rails to the top.

FA: Seanathon, 15 Apr 2019

Sport 5
South Vancouver Island Mt. Wells Prisoner Wall
5.6 Dope On a Rope

an easy first lead

Sport
5.8 Jailhouse Puppy Love
Sport
South Vancouver Island Mt. Wells Toilet Wall
5.8 Two lips and an asshole

Sport mixed

Sport 90m, 3
South Vancouver Island Mt. Wells Pancake Flake
5.10b Progressive Shock

climb the face of the large flake

Sport 15m
South Vancouver Island Mt. Wells South Cliff
5.8 New wolf in town

Big horizonaltal crack far right undercling to two crimps bump up to a jug. Dwarf tree at base named buddy first juggy flake is loose try not to pull too hard on it as its before the first bolt and a fall could be catastrophic.

Sport 6m, 6
5.10b City Of Tiny Lights
Sport 15m
5.9 Clowns Crack

Follow off width crack left of cosmic debris.

Sport 40m, 2, 8
5.9 Cosmic Debris
Sport 20m
5.9 Posturing
Sport
5.11c ICBM's for All
Sport
5.6 Drama

next to text book slab starting at the water seepage,

FA: wolf NB, 2006

Sport 20m, 3
5.6 Text book slab
Sport 40m, 6
South Vancouver Island Mt. Wells Fire Wall
5.9 Hooters To The Moon
Sport 15m
South Vancouver Island Mt. Wells Ladiscotechnique
The end of disco
Sport
it takes two to tango
Sport
wodga
Sport
stayin' alive
Sport
no saannich in salsa
Sport
no salsa in saanich
Sport
disco wrangler
Sport
Habanera
Sport
quick step
Sport
meanderthal man
Sport
5.11a two step
Sport 20m, 12
Cowichan Valley Region Samsun Narrows
5.8 Easy Slab Sport
5.8 Wasp Buckets Sport
5.9 Route Nine Sport
5.9 Nuts Up Against The Wall Sport
5.10a The Roof is on Fire Sport
5.10b Vulture Cultrue Sport
5.10b Blue Balls Sport
5.10c Tree Hugger Sport
5.11a Survival of the Flatus Sport
5.11c Flatus of the Dinosaurs Sport
5.12a Survival of the Flatosphere Sport
5.12a Flatus on the Richter Scale Sport
5.12c Unnamed Sport Roof Sport
Nanaimo and the Mid-Island Mount Arrowsmith and Mount Cokely
5.10b/c IFAS:D The Jowl
1 5.7 D
2 5.8
3 5.5
4 5.10b/c
Sport 120m, 4
Nanaimo and the Mid-Island Horne Lake and surrounds Horne Lake Orange Wall
5.12a Jingo Choss Cave

Out the left side of the white cave, poor quality rock, rarely climbed.

Sport
5.10 Unknown

Between Jingo (Choss Cave) and the ledge with Half Century Girl, The Burning Man and Here Comes Trouble. 2 Pitches, first is 10+ to rap bolts, second is 10- to rap station, best done as one long pitch, close to 35m, a 70m rope works fine to lower off or rappel. A little scruffy at the bottom, but some nice jug pulling over the roof to fun face and chert climbing higher up. I think it had 15 bolts if done as one.

Sport 25m
5.11b Half Century Girl

This route is climbers left of The Burning Man. It has only one quick link and one rap ring at the top.

Sport
5.10b The Burning Man

10 bolts and 2 rap rings. This route is in between Half Century Girl and Here Comes Trouble.

Sport 25m
5.10c Here Comes Trouble

This route is just to the right of The Burning Man. It has 9 bolts and has 2 biners at anchor to lower off. There is another set of anchors at the top right of this climb. Not sure why they are there. It starts up the obvious crack for first 2 bolts the trends left to another crack, goes straight up through a roof, and then chert bands to finish.

Sport 25m
5.10d Boner

Start off a small ledge to the left of a detached block. Up a shallow corner to chains at the roof.

Sport
5.6 Love Handle
Sport 15m
5.11d Bobby Lust

Starts with small roof, into a traversing crack moving left, then a larger overhanging roof to finish.

Sport
5.10b Sun Kissed

Just to the left of Jungle Gym

Sport 20m
5.9 Jungle Gym

The last climb you come to climber's right along The Orange Wall. Has a wood-carved sign at the bottom.

Sport 20m
Nanaimo and the Mid-Island Horne Lake and surrounds Horne Lake Amphitheater
5.12d Horne Stars

The furthest left route in the amphitheater. The route trends leftwards above the Century Wall. Watch for loose rock near the top.

Sport
5.12c Storm Troopers

The second to last route on the left side of the cave. Start on the furthest left ledge by the tree stump above Quarter Century Girl. The route trends slightly left before continue straight up a tufa. Originally ended one bolt earlier, the anchors were moved after a block came loose.

Sport
5.12c Code of Honour
Sport 25m
5.12a Wart Hog
Sport 10m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 246 routes.

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