Routes as trad in Moab

Climbs the crack just east of Ascended Yoga Masters, and joins that route deep inside the rock at the 2nd belay.

Climbs the obvious crack at the south western edge.

P1) 120ft, off-width crack slinging chockstones for pro, turns into squeeze chimney.

P2) 100ft, Move to the back of the chimney, then climb a hand crack and belay on top of a chockstone.

P3) 100ft, up a 5.10 hand crack, protecting with BD #1 cams. Chimney narrows to a stem, leading up to drilled warthogs at an arch.

P4) 50 ft, up a slab for 20 ft, go right, then another 20 ft to large ledge and detached block/flake.

P5) 50 ft, up the detached block and aid through 3 bolts.

Descent: It is possible to rappel the route. Or, traverse the mesa and descend the "Mountaineers Route", although the top can be difficult to find first time.

The large bowl/amphitheatre immediately north of Ascended Yoga Masters.

Looks like a fair bit of loose scrambling, and a final steep wall to exit the amphitheatre.

1. 40m (5.9) More of a crack pitch than a chimney, it looks intimidating for the grade. A low crux leads to the chimney and a double crack system. Straight up with lay-backing & jamming, well protected throughout, bring plenty of cams. There is a higher crux just before the belay through a bulge. DBB.

2. 30m (5.9) A short and awkward off-width section just above the belay, bring a BD#5 to protect and ignore the manky old bolt. Continue up chimneying and passing a few loose chockstones. Trad belay with small to medium cams, although there may be fixed pitons in-place.

3. 30m (5.7) Continue chimneying up, and exit to the right to a loose gravel chute with large loose boulders. Climb over these to a saddle and join the Kor-Ingalis route. Not great gear, but body belay behind boulder is fine.

4. 15m (5.6) Nice climbing up flakes trending left to the top and rappel chains.

1. 110 ft (5.12b) Pro: single set of cams to 5", 7 quickdraws.

2. 105 ft (5.13b) Pro: 16 quickdraws.

3. 65 ft (5.12b) Pro: cams to 0.5-2", 3 quickdraws.

4. 80 ft (5.12a) Pro: 0.75" cam, 7 quickdraws.

Descend with a 70m rope in 4 rappels down the south face of the arrow and then into the dihedral of 'Kor-Ingalls'[19398475] to the bottom.

FA. April 13/14 2001 by Paul Ross ,Jeff Pheasent. Some wild situations. Unrepeated as of 2010. The Traverse uses 4 pitches of establised climbs and 5 new pitches.

1. P1 of Kor-Ingalls.140' 5.6.
2. Move belat to the right to join Arrowhead Left .Climb this pitch to the top of the Arrowhead (junction with Stardust Cowboys)100' 5.10.
3. The long Ed WEbster bolt ladder is followed,then up to the right to a belay overlooking North Chimney.110'.
4. Climb down 20' then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 North Chimney. Traverse right across the slab to the bolt rap/lower ,and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of P2 North Face route.110'.
5. Up ledges to the right ,then climb down 12' to a beatifully exposed narrow slab traverse line.(some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers ,nut and washers in place- bring 1/2" wrench,or use wires) Follow the slab crossing Sun,Moon and Stars climb to an anchor overlooking The West Face route.110' 5.9+ AO (with pro now in place should go all free).
6. Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face.
7. Follow a thin crack up and right to a belay around the corner. C1 5.3.
8. The long exposed crack is followed across theWest Face to a belay overlooking the Kor-Ingall route.80' 5.9 C1.
9. From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. 170' C1.

Climb Kor or rap off... Gear Two sets of Cams from Metolius 00 to #4 Friend many biners for Webster bolt ladder ,Stoppers ,and perhaps hand drill as now route is getting old without second ascent.!

1. 130ft (5.6) Up into an awful tight squeeze chimney. Maybe a better alternative is to start 20 foot right and climb up through blocks. Belay on massive ledge with massive bolts and chains.

2. 100ft (5.8) Move across to the chimney and double crack system. Ignore the chimney on the left with the bolt (that’s “Black Sun”). Instead, on the right is a double crack system, the left crack is probably best. Climb over some loose blocks at the top to a comfy ledge with bolts and chains.

3. 100ft (5.9) Layback up the corner, the crack widens and you move into and find a bolt, the crack narrows and you’re forced out for the crux which is protected by a bolt, you’ll stem with thin footholds and gratefully reach a large calcite hold for your left hand. More wide crack/chimney above before being forced out on to the right face just before the belay, bolts and chains.

4. 80ft (5.8) The obvious line is straight up the off-width crack. However, easier climbing up right to join the North Chimney route, climb flakes up to rappel chains.

Classic route on the southern end of The Rectory.

Start 30ft left of Fine Jade

Start underneath the huge pillar leaning against the west face, about 50 yards north of Fine Jade on the west face.

Starts about 30 yards right of Fine Jade (30 yards north on the east face).

Pitch 1 - Sustained lieback finger corner via one bolt to final crux two meters below the hanging belay.

Pitch 2 - From the belay, step 3 m left to flakey crack. Up a #.75 section to a flaring steep thin hands section. Belay on ledge.

Pitch 3 - Steep fingers with occasional lieback moves. Luckily the sandy block before the belay was removed. However, the final moves are a bit awkward (well protected with a #3).

Pitch 4 - Step down a bit and traverse left for 5m along thin, balance moves without any pro to a slightly sandy crack. Best, try to back clean the first placements to improve belaying situation for the second. Continue crack to big ledge and finish on right exit variant of fine jade via 3 bolts and some challenging face moves.

Gear: doubles #0.1-3 with extra finger and hand sizes, slings, double ropes

Descent: from top anchor rappel via Fine jade (4 single rope rappels or two 60m double rope rappels)

Northern end of the Convent, on the west face. Accessing the base of the route requires some crawling along horizontal breaks, beginning at "Value of Audacity", and continuing under "West Face Dihedral".

1. 170ft, 5.9

2. 110ft, 5.11-

3. 30ft, 5.10 (can be linked with P2 dependent on rope drag?)

4. The Roof. 100ft, 5.10

5. 50ft, 5.8

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

Approach requires a crawl along a horizontal ledge from the base of "Value Of Audacity".

1. 80ft, 5.9

2. 110ft, 5.10-

3. 110ft, 5.10

4. 80ft, 5.10

5. 60ft, 5.10

6. 60ft, 5.7

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

PG13. Start about 5m right of "West Face Dihedral". The start is just after the approach crawl from "Value of Audacity".

1. 100ft, 5.10 C1

2. 120ft, 5.10

3. 70ft, 5.8

4. 5.6R

5. 80ft, 5.9

6. 50ft, 5.10

7. 30ft, 5.7

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

No fixed anchors on the route.

1. 150ft, 5.11+

2. 120ft, 5.11+

3. 120ft, 5.8

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

Starts about 13m right of "Value Of Audacity" and 30m left of "Choir Boyz".

1. 40m, 5.12

2. 35m, 5.11+

3. 20m, 5.10.

Descent: Rappel "Choir Boyz".

The right trending ramp system, beginning just left of "Choir Boyz".

1. 130ft, 5.10

2. 210ft, 5.10+

3. 80ft, 5.8

4. Continue up P5 of "Choir Boyz"

Descent: Rappel "Choir Boyz".

All anchors are bolted well.

1. Crux, 5.12-

2. 5.10+

3. 5.11+

4. 5.11C

5. Easy.

Descent: Rappel the route.

Originally climbed as Aid and named "Renate Goes To Africa", but later freed and named "Renate Goes to Eleven" as a "a tip of the hat to Nigel Tufnel, who might say of the route 'Don't even look at it'".

1. 60ft, 5.10b

2. 50ft, 5.8

3. 190ft, 5.7

4. 80ft, 5.9

5. 100ft, 5.10a

Descent: Rappel "Salvation Chimney" about 30m south, or, walk north to find the top of "Choir Boyz" and rap that.

Right facing dihedral in the southern third of the west face. Start is marked with a plaque and belay bolt.

1. 30m, 5.11

2. 30m, 5.10-

3. 37m, 5.12

4. 40m, 5.11

5. 25m, 5.9

6. 10m, 5.8

Descent: Walk north to find "Choir Boyz" and rappel that.

Climb from the east side, climb the easy but unprotected chimney between the 2 summits, the first gear placement is just below where the two summits bulge out and the chimney widens - you can place a BD #5 cam on the left, but better is a slung horn on the right.

Stem between the two towers past 2 drilled pitons. Then the crux - the 5.7 committing transition from stemming to the south tower with a good left hand hold around the arete, and drilled piton at feet. Exposed friction leads to the anchor, just below that actual summit.

The move up to the summit is unprotected, but a straightforward beached whale move ;o)

Well known for being run-out, but with careful consideration can actually be protected fairly well.

Start at the south-west (parking lot side) of the tower. Climb crack (cams) to flake (cams) and a mantle. Up to the base of summit block with large horizontal flake, you can protect with BD #3 & #4 at the base of the flake and extend over the lip with slings. Step up and right, possible to sling a small dinner plate with prussic cord, then slightly overhung jugs to rappel chain. Hidden pockets on the summit to help with the mantle.

Often top-roped after climbing Entry Fee.

Start just left of Entry Fee, climb the crack (nut placement) to a bolt, then move right to join and finish on Entry Fee at the large horizontal flake / base of summit block.

First climbed solo by Harvey T Carter who said "it's the obvious route on the north side of the tower".

Well, there are obvious zig-zag ledges, but the final 20ft is guarded by vertical poor rock. There is now a 4 bolt (drilled piton) ladder to aid on, placed by Joe Forrester in 2007 to finish their route that started on the south face. There is a rappel station on the shoulder just under the summit block.

Some of the worst rock you will ever climb on. Climb the obvious wide crack at the western edge of the formation to a shoulder under the overhanging summit. On the first ascent the summit was lassoed for an aid finish, there is now a 3 bolt ladder moving left across poor rock/mud to surmount the final obstacle. There is a rappel station below the summit block.

3 pitches of crappy climbing to lead to the most spectacular summit ever!!!

1. 35m (5.8 A0 or 5.10) Up the easy boulders (5.5). Some parties belay here with cams to reduce rope drag. Move left to steeper climbing up a thin face, 4 bolts, pull on draws for 5.8, or go free for 5.10. DBB.

2. 30m (5.8) Mud Chimney - The only real climbing on the route. Plenty of cam options plus one old manky bolts. TBB on spacey ledge.

3. 10m (5.7 A0 or 5.10) Short pitch to gain the summit area. 4 bolts well placed to pull through, climbing free it's slightly easier on the left at the top. Top out on the start of the walkway. TBB.

4. 20m (5.8) What you came here for!!! Balance your way across the unprotected walkway, with 600ft of air either side! Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board to find your first bolt. 5.7 moves up the skinny tower lead to 2 more bolts out to the right. Awkward move over bulge or pull on draws, then top out and get an awesome photo!!! The last pro is the multitude of slings/ropes, but 3rd/4th class terrain to the top.

Protection: single set of Camalots #0.5 to #3 (double 0.75 and 1 optional), some quick draws, and four to six long (24") slings.

To descend, get lowered from the summit block from the multitude of tat, then walk back to the belay. Rappel back to the top of the chimney. Then, 2x60m ropes reach the ground from here, or, with 1x60m rope just rappel reversing the route.

chimney

Flaring crack

Big, wide crack that you don't really need to jam at all as the edge of the crack and face features allow you to layback the shit out of it. Swing over and toprope it from To Boo, or Not to Boo if you didn't lug the big gear up the approach.

The obvious wide corner crack to the left of To Boo, or Not to Boo.

Standard rack with emphasis on wide gear. 2 bolt anchor at top.

Before Saving Ryan's Privates. Keep your eyes left through as you walk from the Stage to the Cinema, looking for a varied slabby crack. It is angled behind you - not perfectly perpendicular to the path, as you walk between both crags. (ie. you basically have to turn around to see it.)

Highly recommended crack for new trad leaders. Varied, slabby, lots of face holds and spots to rest.

grade 6 A6

The obvious weakness of cracks and ledges.

P1) Climb diagonal cracks leading up and right, leading to a two bolt belay with chains at a comfortable ledge beneath an off-width crack. The climbing is a little awkward in places, but well protected in the cracks.

Original P2) Straight up the unprotected wide crack/off-width, once it widens enough... get in there, moving right and chimneying up to the top.

Recommended P2 variation) This is a safer option with protection. Move all of your gear to the front of your harness, or better, use a shoulder sling.

Climb up just 2m from the belay (to head height), then squeeze into the wide crack walking sideways, it's about chest-width for a few steps. Shuffle along the dusty floor to the highest point of the chimney floor, the anchors are directly above that point. DO NOT continue along the chimney downhill to the daylight and wider section with crack, that's the P1 belay of "Camino" 5.10.

From the highest point of the chimney floor, squeeze upwards as best you can, quite awkward, very much like canyoneering, there are some ledges slightly to the right, you're aiming for a crack 5m up where the chimney widens to a more comfortable width. You can protect the crack with cams and even pass a couple of stuck/fixed pieces. Exit into the daylight and rappel chains.

The actual highest point of Off-Balanced rock is behind the chimney and requires a serious exposed unprotected move at 5.10+, probably best just to be satisfied being on the main bulk of the rock. Enjoy the views and wave down to the hordes of tourists at Balanced Rock.

Descent: 2 rope rappel reaches the ground, or, 2 x 25m raps via P1 belay.

Morning shade, afternoon sun. Easy access. Sandstone is quite polished due to the high traffic, and the climbing a bit awkward in places. Make sure you look good, you'll be starring in 100's of tourist photos.

Climb follows the obvious crack on the western side, hand crack and jugs for most of the climb, albeit quite polished, it's well protected in the crack the whole way. The crux is about half way up past a bulge, some jamming required, then possibly a second crux towards the top as you're forced out left on to the face. Throughout, if you start to struggle to find the next big hold, reach high.

Three large bolt and chain belay under the summit, comfortable ledge, plenty of room for multiple climbers. It's then 8m of 4th class to the top, protected by 2 drilled pitons, it's worth belaying that for safety.

Descent: 1 x 60m rope reaches the base, you can angle your rappel to the side to allow other parties to climb the route.

Scramble up 4th class to the base of a small step and belay here. A committing step up on to a slab, walk right to the off-width crack, left shoulder in works best, protected at the base with a BD #0.75 in a crack and BD#4 or 5 in the main crack. About 2-3m of nice climbing and you're basically up at the base of the chimney. There are protection options at the base and mouth of the chimney. Squeeze up 5m to the rappel anchor among loose boulders, 3m below the summit.