Routes as trad in Old Shongweni

Start about 20m to the left of the first easy scramble - more or less in front of the farmhouse at a short, right-facing corner that is capped by a small roof. Stem up the corner to the jug under the roof then step out to the right to exit. There is no significant gear low down.

Start 2m to the left of 'Tweedle Dum' under a protruding nose of rock. Climb up 3m then step left onto the end of a large ledge. Climb up a few moves until it is possible to step out to the right onto the top of the protruding nose using a small, concealed hold around the corner to the right. Finish straight up.

Start as for 'Tweedle Dee' but tend left, to reach the base of recess on the left to the 'Tweedle Dee' arête. From the recess, step up left onto a ledge and then exit straight up. It is harder than 9 if you start of slightly to the left of 'Tweedle Dee'.

Go down the scramble is located about 35m back towards the farmhouse from the first electricity pole. At the bottom of the scramble, on the edge closest to the farmhouse, there is a small, weathered stump at the base of the rock. Start just left of the stump and climb straight up the face for about 3m to reach a tiny arête between two recesses. Climb straight up the arête to the top.

Climb the short face about 2m to the right of 'On Root'.

Start 5m to the right of 'On Root', just to the right of the fig tree at the top of the crag, but just left of a deep off-width. Climb straight up to the top. Using the fig tree branches or the block to the right of the off-width is 'off limits'. Well protected.

Start 5m to the right of 'Fig Jam' under a small overhang 2m up. Stem up past the overhang and then climb straight up the orange, lichen-infested face above. Gear is adequate but sparse.

Start about 3m to the right of 'Pumpkin Eater', below a large, overhanging block at the top of the crag. Climb straight up the clean face and exit to the right of the block using a series of lay away holds. An alternative exit to the left of the block has not yet been attempted.

Start about 10m to the right of 'Witch's Brew' and just to the left of a tree at the bottom of the crag. Climb straight up to a ledge and then up blocks to the top.

Start about 15m to the right of 'Witch's Brew' at some crumpled-looking orange rock with right-tending grooves. Climb up for about 4m and then continue up diagonally right, past a small tree to reach a large ledge. Walk across to the right hand end of the ledge and then climb straight up to the top where you can belay on one of the old metal bollards.

About 14m to the right of 'Any Which Way' there is a narrow, right-facing face and a deep, right-tending corner crack. Gavin Peckham is working on the face, whilst Greg Wooding is working on the corner crack. As of 2022, no idea what is up with these.

Consider them abandoned. Maybe they have been done.

About 14m to the right of 'Any Which Way' there is a narrow, right-facing face and a deep, right-tending corner crack. Gavin Peckham is working on the face, whilst Greg Wooding is working on the corner crack. As of 2022, no idea what is up with these.

Consider them abandoned. Maybe they have been done.

This route is in the left-hand face of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Start 2m to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Pull up to the rail then follow the laybacks up the obvious break to a peg. Climb past this and exit to the left.

Start as for 'Planet Digit' and climb straight up the face past the bolt.

Start immediately to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Follow the obvious break above, finishing up the wall past the bolt.

Retro-bolted in 2007.

Start on the blocks in the 'Verooka Palooka' corner, just to the right of 'Moon on Ice', and immediately to the left of a small tree. Climb straight up to the top past two bolts.

Start 2m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb straight up the face pulling through the roof above.

Start 4m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb up to a small ledge with a bush and pull through the roof above.

From the bottom of 'Verooka Palooka', traverse easily along the ledge on the right-hand face. From near the end of the ledge, climb straight up the face.

Start at the base of the roofs just around the corner to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Follow the line of bolts. The top anchors can be easily cleaned from the top.

The next 4 routes up to 'Bandaloop' are all in the same 'Clockworks' open book which is located about 40 m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka'.

Retro-bolted in 2004.

About 40m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka' there is another large open book with blocky chimney up the corner. The left-hand face of this open book is a clean, orange/grey wall with a fig tree on a ledge near the top. Start near the middle of the left-hand face by a 1m high, semi-detached block. Climb the crack and then tend left up the face avoiding the broken rock on the right. Exit just to the right of the tree.

Retro-bolted in 2008.

Start about 1m to the left of 'Clockworks' and about 4m to the right of the chimney in the corner. Climb the obvious blocky break and then go diagonally to the right up the good face to finish just to the right of a fig tree.

It seems that this route is just an easier variation of 'Clockworks'.

This line takes the left-hand side of the wall to the right of 'Clockworks' and 'Doggone'. Start below the peg and climb straight up the face, exiting slightly to the right.

Retro-bolted in 2008.

Start just to the right of Maniacal Expertise and climb the face past a block which appears to be loose.

Retro-bolted in 2008.

Start just around the corner to the right of 'Bandaloop'. Climb the arête on the left of the small face. A short, steep section can be avoided by moving to the right, then up and back left onto the arête. The protection is good. There is an odd mix of bolts with no hangers, bolts with hangers, natural gear and chains.

One day ‘someone’ will fix it. Until then, treat it as an adventure.

Climb up the centre of the face to the left of 'Big Mamma' and pull through the middle of the roof. Finish anywhere up the face above. A great move through the roof.

Start in the large open book recess immediately to the left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree amphitheatre'. Climb up the back of the open book to a roof at 5m. Pull through on the right (awkward) and then up more easily. Step to the right near the top to avoid a loose block.

Start below a low roof on the wall to the right of 'Big Mamma'. Pull through this roof below the small tree and finish up the break.

(People who burden us with route names like this probably need to visit a psychologist.)

Start under a small roof formed by a block about 3m up and about 4m to the left of 'Cool Jewelled Moon'. Climb left past the roof and then up the orange and black face above.

Start at a perfect, rectangular, undercling pocket about 5m to the left of the 'Dixie' corner. Crank up past a very old peg to a roof. Pull through the centre of the roof and continue up the face above.

Note: Another 'sandbag'. It was originally graded at 15. It may even be an 18. The original RD conveniently forgot to mention that there is virtually no gear. If you want to lead this excellent line, you might as well solo it. Until the line is bolted, top-roping is definitely the best option.

From grade 8 fully using the block behind you, to 18 if you don't use it at all - or anything in between depnding on the extent.