Routes as trad in Crazed Rock

This is on a small wall up left of the main cliff. The wall 4m left of a diagonal weakness and large tree on the left side of the face. Climb above the bulge then finish up the cracks on the left.

The attractive left-facing flake-crack on the lower tier, towards the left end of the face.

A very good route that climbs the major, left-facing corner in the upper left section of the cliff.

1. 18m From the small cairn 10m right of Fool's Gold, climb the slabby wall to a large tree (landmark) at the right end of a bushy ledge. Up the corner just right of this to a major horizontal break. Head left on this for 3m to a corner with a wide crack (#4 Friend for belay).

2. 17m (crux) Step up left to the next corner and climb it.

Good, varied climbing. Cairned. This and other names commemorate the experience of walking in circles below the crag in thick fog.

1. 18m (crux) Straight up the hard little groove 3m right of The Desperate and Divided Years to a horizontal break. Climb the steep wall above, then easy climbing to below a roof. Up the flakes to under the right side of the roof, then go left under it and back right up the crack above it to a corner.

2. 12m Step right onto the arete and climb it in a dramatic position.

1. 16m Start up the shallow groove 7m right of Jane Duff Memorial. Veer slightly right and climb the steep little corner to a ledge below the headwall.

2. 10m Climb the crack above.

A very good climb

1. 16m Start up the left-leading diagonal crack 3m right of Sisters of the Sun, and immediately left of the small pillar. Climb above the bulge, go slightly left up the slab to the corner. Step left and up the rib to a ledge below a finger-crack.

2. 10 (crux) Climb the crack.

Variants on Late for the Sky. Climb up the corner, as for Late for the Sky, but continue up the crack. Head left below an overlap and up the hanging corner as for Late for the Sky. Traverse right at the overlap to a flake, head up this and the crack above.

Good Climbing. Head up the juggy crack on the small buttress 1m right of Late for the Sky. Pull onto the slab above the steep section and go up to the overlap. Go 2m right under this, then climb the wall to join Epic Master at a small tree.

Tackles the middle of the main orange wall with good, sustained climbing. Needs cleaning. Climb the lichenous groove with chicken heads near the middle of the wall, and 2m right of Lost in the Bush. This leads to the foot of an orange ramp which sweeps up left past a small tree to finish steeply straight up.

Brilliant corner.

1. 20m From below a block on the ground below the major right-facing corner in the upper half of the main cliff, go up right, then back up left on slabs. Take the short corner to a ledge below the main corner.

2. 20m (crux) Climb the corner.

Fierce and sustained wall climbing with mediocre protection.

1. 20m Head up Cash Cow to belay.

2. 20m (crux) Start 1.5m right of the corner. Head up and slightly right, then up and a little left.

Good. Start on the bushy terrace behind the top of Fool's Gold and The Desperate and Divided Years up the left of the two shallow, left-facing corners. Climb up to a crack in the bulge, then the twin cracks through the next bulge. Finish up The Desperate and Divided Years.