Monster roof crack, with easier moves than you might think -considering the steepness. A proper goal for any Blueys crack enthusiast.
Start up Big Boyce Blouse for 4 bolts to small stance (possible belay here), then blast upwards on gear through steepening terrain, with moves (and gear) getting more difficult as you go -culminating in a gnarly sequence at the end of the roof. 2 bolt anchor on ledge above crack, with an optional short pitch to top-out if you want.
Recommended gear is variable, as there are lots of options, placing the fiddly gear at the crux is hard, and there's a big difference between "preplaced gear" and "placing gear on lead." What follows is the FFA's gear list:
2 x 0.2; 2 x 0.3; 1 x 0.4, 1 x 0.5; 2 x 0.75; 1 x 1; 1 x 3; selection of small wires. An additional 0.4 is very useful for aiding or climbing on preplaced (but very hard to place on lead).
Probably climbed before 2013, but when inquiries were made at the time no one knew anyone who had done it. Pitch lengths are an estimate based upon the route next door.
The obvious radical roof crack above the steep fingers splitter just left of La Nina. You can rap the route off the tree with a 70m rope.
18m (25) Starts with a steep, thin finger crack to a ledge then up through a stellar horizontal roof crack, turn the lip and finish on the comfy ledge. Two carrots with perma hangers and biners for the belay. AWESOME climbing, funky moves. Classic.
25m (21) Follows some old carrots (backed up by and supplemented with gear) straight up from the belay (exciting). An interesting mixed pitch at the grade that ends in a brilliant splitter crack. Belay off single very old carrot backed up with some gear or link into the next pitch.
15m (21) Up through bulge on dirty and questionable rock then step left to finish on snappy, steep, orange rock with a number of hand placed bash in stainless carrots. Belay off trees on top.
The really good looking clean crack at the far right hand end above the rope access. Best to do the short pitches otherwise the 2nd faces ropestretch groundfall potential on the first crux, or the leader faces ropestretch ledgefall potential on the last crux.
18m (22) Awesome finger crack to massive comfy ledge. It's possible to walk 5m left (roped up) along the ledge and rap off anchors on Iron Curtain if you wish.
25m (17) Ok climbing on average rock, the pro is acceptable but will keep you thinking. Belay beneath roof on gear and optional carrot.
15m (21) Burly roof crack then nice easy diagonal corner crack (obviously seen from Boronia). Belay off tree/s.
