Showing all 6 routes.
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.12a | ★★★ Time Wave Zero
1
5.7
2
5.11b
3
5.9
4
5.9
5
5.10a
6
5.9
7
5.7
8
Class 4
9
5.9
10
5.10b
11
5.9
12
5.7
13
5.8
14
5.9
15
5.9
16
5.10d
17
5.9
18
5.9
19
5.9
20
5.10d
21
5.12a
22
5.8
23
5.3
Fantastic climb!!!! Careful on the raps, knot end of ropes to be sure! The 5.12a can be french freed. [dagibbs edit note, 2012] Neither Dane's guide (The Whole Enchilada, 2007) nor Ed's book (Climb El Potrero Chico, 17th ed 2012) mention this route, or anything similar to this route in this area. But, there is a topo for the Outrage Wall in the back of Ed's book that diagrams "Jambo Bwana (TWZ)" beside the Surf Bowl. So, this pretty clearly is the first few pitches of TWZ (until the first garden). Maybe TWZ was only bolted part way when this was first posted? Or the climber thought the 3rd class was the end? [/edit note] The approach is long, follow the spire path and keep going, the route is on the far left [edit: actually far right] of the Surf bowl. Still very chaucy rock, needs more ascents to clean the route. The crux pitch is made harder in part due to the crimper holds crumpeling while most inconvinient. There is a fixed rope at the top, to rap the top pitch. -z- you are correct, JumboBwano was the original route, and Timewave was added from the 3rd class ledge. It is in my 2001 guide P1: 4 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P2: 9 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P3: 8 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) P4: 7 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P5: 8 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P6: 9 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) Traverse pitch P7: 3 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) P8: 4th class P9: 10 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P10: 9 bolts (4 bolt anchor) traverse P11: 8 bolts (3 bolt anchor) P12: Ledge for overnight bivy P13: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P14: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P15: 9 bolts (3 bolt anchor) P16: 9 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P17: 7 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P18: 8 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P19: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P20: 7 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P21: 10 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P22: 7 bolts (2 bolt anchor) P23: 6 bolts (1 bolt anchor) ridge traverse FA: Paul Irby & Dane Bass, 2002 | 700m, 23, 10 | |||
| 5.7 | ★★ A Time for War
Starts about twenty feet right of Timewave Zero FA: Greg Millsaps, 2016 | 24m, 7 | |||
| 5.10b | ★ A Time for Peace
1
5.4
80m
2
5.10b
45ft
Second pitch can be accessed by climbing “A Time for War”, “A Time for Peace”, or “Tomato Your Time”. FA: Jan Millsaps & John Cunningham, 2016 | 94m, 2, 8 | |||
| 5.6 | ★ Tomato Your Time
Shares an anchor with “A Time for Peace”. FA: Shaefer Church & Kris Tanquist, 2021 | 24m, 9 | |||
| 5.8 | ★★ Man Beyond Time
FA: Mike Burdon, 2016 | 26m, 8 | |||
| 5.8 | ★★ Citizens of Heaven
FA: Allen Lee & Mike Burdon, 2016 | 26m, 8 | |||
... Timewave was added in 2003 I think. Ed and I tried for the 2nd ascent, but were overtaken by a simul climbing Mexican team. They were not going to let us take the 2nd! We only made it to the eighteenth pitch, and they past us on the way down before we got done!Showing all 6 routes.