Routes as trad in Falling Water Wall

Closed Project.

1. 45m (24)

2. 25m (21)

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.

1. 30m (27) - 7 Bolts and a #0.4 Cam (to protect the final move to the anchor).

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.75 and #1 Cam to anchor.

3. 25m (21) - 5 Bolts to anchor.

Closed Project

Closed Project.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.2, #0.3, #3, #4, and Doubles of #0.4 to #2.

1. 40m (25) - Bolt, #2, #2, #0.5, #0.3, Bolt, #1, #0.75 + #0.2, #1 + #0.75, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.4, #0.5 to 2 Bolt anchor.

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #1, #0.4, and 4 Bolts to 2 Bolt anchor.

3. 15m (18)

A gymnastic alternative to Pitch 4 of Passion in Progress, taking the line directly through the roof crack above the belay. Very strenuous and gymnastic. Originally climbed ground-up. #1 cam (out left) in a shallow horizontal, then #0.75, #2, #2, #1, #0.75, #0.4 to Bolt belay.

Significantly harder than its righthand neighbour.

As for Gaze a Gazely Stare to the #3 Cam slot above its 3rd bolt, then take the lefthand line.

Gaze, then: Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #0.3, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.3, #1, #0.3, #.75, Bolt, #1.

Entry level at the grade -but very involved, despite the objectively soft grading.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #4; 3 x #3; 4 x #1; and at least 7 Long Runners.

1. 45m (26) - Gear in Order: Bolt + LR, #0.3 + #2 + XLR, Bolt + LR, #1, #3 (Optional), Bolt, #3, #0.5 (Optional), Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #4 (Optional), #1 + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + XLR, #1 (Optional), #0.4, #0.75/#1 (Optional), #3, Bolt, to 2 Bolt anchor.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and Bolt anchor.

Climbed ground-up in some extremely wet conditions.

Bring a double rack #0.3 to #4, a single 0.2 and set of wires.

1. 25m (18)

2. 20m (20) - Save a 0.2 cam for the thin crack at the top! Originally climbed on the face to the left as 21R.

3. 30m (18)

4. 15m (10) - Continue doddling up the easy crack trending left. This pitch can be linked into the next one (or even the 6th pitch if you want). Originally climbed by taking a rightward line on jugs through the roof above the belay at 22R.

5. 15m (12)

6. 15m (10)

A proper long and overhanging monster. The money pitch is 65m long, and overhangs more than 20m!!! Surely there isn't much like that in the Blueys at the grade? Suffice to say, you will get pumped.

Rock quality is Bell-esque, so adjust stars accordingly.

1. 65m (27) - Intimidating! 11 bolts to join Gaze a Gazely stare just above the roof, then continue upwards forever. Strategic long/giant runners, and roller biners essential ! See Gaze for necessary rack for this pitch.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and bolt belay.

Did You Know: Moons can have their own moons, and they're called MoonMoons !!!

Bring a full double rack 0.3 to 4, and a full rack of wires. For P2, some offset small cams, and offset wires can be crucial (see pitch gear beta below).

1. 25m (19) Belay from 2 x #4. An awesome right-leaning crack, marred only by some patches of average rock. Bring your full double rack on this one, and place gear wherever you see it.

2. 35m (26 R) Gritstone comes to the Blueys. Very very sustained, and also somewhat bold. Links features where the crack peters out, resulting in some giant runouts (both sideways, and upwards). Pitch specific gear: Piton + 0.5 (Belay), 0.75, 0.3, 1 + 2, 2 x 0.3, 0.2, 0.75, 2 + 1 + Black Wire (medium), 0.4 + G/Y offset alien, Optional offset wires, Piton, 0.75 + 0.4 + 3.5/4, Piton, Bolted Anchor.