Routes

Same start as for Redemption. At the end of horizontal traverse head directly up through marginal holds before mantling over roof. Finish at Redemption anchor.

Links Winfield into Camels Don't Sweat

Links Winfield into Emphysema

A distinct straight line feature resembling a crocodile’s back from bottom to top. Start as for La Carrickalinga but take high line staying in feature the whole way. A big roll through move brings you to open pinches and a brief over head heel toe rest. Exit at the top of the line using arete over bulge and finish on flat edge above.

Climb 'Stalagmite Addiction' to the last bolt & traverse left (as for Top Shelf). Continue past The Art to Trade Route anchor. Keep traversing left finishing up Shelf Life. 70+ moves. Best to employ two belayers and two ropes, and drop a line at Trade Route rest. Also requires a variety of clips to be skipped to minimise rope drag. Previously done in 3 sections by Matt who provided the vision, now linked in one by Dan, who provided the endurance.

53 moves linking the entire cave from the sand to the highest top out.

Start for warm up route on the sand, traversing under first bludge. Make a big move to enter the featured strip that resembles a crocodiles tail. Follow this till you can break left into the second hold of Angelina’s PHD. Continue up Dr. Angelina for a pump fest to top out at the highest point of the cave.

Sit start at the far back left of the cave on good holds. Make a series of big moves on poor holds through the blank section of rock and directly gain the good hold in the crack (CBTS finish hold). From here continue up through ion stone flake and head towards the matching sloper before making a big move to the lip. Mantle and finish.

Start on RH side pull and LH gaston at back of cave. Move left through sloping rails until you gain opposing jugs in the roof. Head out right through roof using good pockets then directly over roof lip to finishing rail on head wall.

Start on sharp LH vertical seam and RH undercling edge at back of the cave. Head directly through roof to opposing jugs using a gaston and underclings and finish as for Mercury.

Start on sharp LH vertical seam and RH undercling edge. Pick up 2 obvious holds in roof then break right through underclings. Use good pocket above to gain head wall.

Sit start on good jug in right hand side of cave top of triangle. Directly up to jug pocket then head right around roof and a roll through to finish rail.

Pinch De Resistancé start, moving through pinches to a positive crimp rail. A wide RH gaston gains the Angelina’s PHD pocket with a good hold that sets you up for another RH gaston on marginal crimps. Match this face and then finish up Know Better Learn Fast.

Link up. Start God Save The Queen to good jugs of Angelina's, then take the Bulldozed link to the slopers of Punch Drunk and finish as for that.

The queen needs a doctor! Climb God Save The Queen to the good jugs of Angelina's. Then break left along Dr. Angelina to it’s finish (the finish of Locked Down).

Link up of God Save The Queen to rest jugs of Angelina's, then take the Bulldozed link into the finish of Trident.

Start as for Locked down. Climb to first good rest jug in the crack. Traverse right into Trident and finish for that.

Climb Angelina’s PHD to its mid height rest. Take the Bulldozed link to the rest on Trident, then continue left to the rest jug of Locked Down (ie. reversing AF link). Continue sequence of Locked Down and top out of cave.

The snake shaped line linking ‘Top Shelf Material’ into ‘Emphysema’ finish. Climb TSM past it’s toilet bowl crux, then traverse left under roof to finish on ‘Emphysema’ crux to chains. 70+ moves through face, slabs, roofs and cut loose crux’s over 14 bolts. Extend last draw of Stalagmite and all slab traverse bolts. Unclip final 2 draw as your being lowered off to minimise drag when pulling the rope.

History’s cloudy but first bolted in early 2000’s with home made hangers. Recently re equiped. Climb easy face to traverse line. Move around bulge through a tricky clip to chockstone under final roof. Thin holds gain the slab above to lower off anchor.

1 historic hanger left on route but not needed for line. First accent was to original double hangers on the lip of the roof but since extended above head wall for a better finish.

Climb ‘Marlboro Red’ to the 7th BR then head directly up face to the start of the roof for a brief rest. Use pinches and crimps to fight through blank bulging roof clipping 2 more bolts to gain final head wall. (Extend last draw past lip of the roof to minimise rope drag)

Climb ‘Camel Filter’ to its (6th BR) then break right clipping 3 more to gain a set of jugs over the lip. Mantel and finish up the corner at The Art chains.

Sit start on far right hand side. Treverse left at mid height till you get past roof and onto easier section. Try to keep feet high using heel hooks rather than the back wall.

Sit start under roof using side pools. Work your way over roof and up to top.

Start traverse as for (Jack Sparrow). Once you get to good central jug before heading up cracks, keep traversing left around corner past (Davy Jones and Black Beard). Holds on flat top out ledge are off limits.

Head up cavity only using feet and back smearing. Hands are off limits

Start as Jack Sparrow. Head up left of (Jack Sparrow Left) through slopers. Scramble to top.

Start from (Jack Sparrow) jug. Head right of (James Hook) using only crack. Scramble to top.

Start on main (Jack Sparrow) jug. Head directly up and left of (James Hook) using sloper only. Grab jug after and scramble to top.

Start on right hand side of juggy crack. Use only jug line for hands and feet traversing left around corner. Once around corner stay at same height to next corner moving left.

Climb no longer climbable due to carious large boulders in the way. Maybe the sea will do us a favour and move them again in the future?!

Hang start on jug with feet in foot cave at chest height. Traverse left horizontally keeping feet high with heel hooks. Make way up the parallel cracks.

Sit start R/h fingers in pocket, L/H on ledge. Straight up to kooks warm up mantle.

Jack Sparrow route but only use Left hand crack.

Jack Sparrow route but only use right hand crack

Hang start on jug. Move directly upwards on arête. Scramble to top.

Right hand in finger pocket. Left hand on left pocket. Use left sloper and high sloping jug. Commiting move up to jug then scramble to top.

Sit start with both hands on under bulge also using left foot toe hook. Traverse right using bead loaf pinch and side jugs. Mantle out above in pigeon hole.

Start on undercling and crimp. Head up crack over bulge to walk off

Start on sidepulls. Head out on steepest part off roof to big solid jug. Pull up and over roof to walk off.

Same line as Windy Jugs but bust straight to big arret jug without using intermediate move.

Start on underclings. Head up and out over bulge.