Routes

Left hand route starting at the bottom of the gully. Nice scoops and small over lap to a deceptively steep finish.

Start at the right hand end of the boulder, lowest point. Small ledges to belly flop.

Start on the small foot ledge, trend left to the obvious hold and then up to the immensity satisfying band of iron stone to top out.

Centre of the slab on small holds. Exit on iron band ripple.

Obvious crack. Tricky start. Watch for finger jams.

Right in the middle of the wall. Small ledge for your foot. Balance up. Mantle to the top.

Left hand edge. Balance to hold on left edge. Flop to the top.

First route at the bottom of the descent gully. Start by pulling with care on the rickety flake. Clip the low bolt to avoid dropping into the muddy abyss if you underestimate how tricky this little slab is.

Just left of the trad crack. Run out in the middle.

First line of bolts in the orange buttress. Pull over bulge. Choose your yellow flakes with care. Anchor bolts over the top ledge.

Straight up the middle

Right side of the face on large ironstone holds

Arete.

Obvious corner crack. Large gear. Two belay bolts set well back from the top can be used to belay.

Centre of the slab. Nowra slabs and ledges.

The zig zag trad crack trending leftwards.

First route encountered. Sit start to knobs., Throw to small ledge. Finish standing on large mantle with hands on the pebbles.

Just right of the rungs. Choose your starting holds with care until you reach the satisfying iron band ridges. Trend right. Fun.

Middle of the next pillar. Long reach for the crux. Satisfyingly sequencey.

Start to the left of the crack. Pull up on sharp ironstone edges, trending left. Long reach to the final ledges and glory.

Start on the irresistible orange and ascend the over hanging ledges. Grope over the lip for the hold, swing into space, take the hero photo and pull with care onto the head wall.

Start on small handholds on the face. Trend right past ironstone Hole to first ledge.

Blunt right scoop / crack to second ledge.

Blunt arete to second ledge.

Undercling crack and lunge for the top.

Sit start below mini ledge. Pull up trending left. Top out.

Left hand end of slab. Sit start.

Middle of slab. Sit start.

Start at the far left of the crag. Use a mixture of ironstone bands and the large pebbled ledge. Drop at the nose.

Right hand side of the slab. Sit start.

Easy ramp leading to rounded top out. Finish standing on top of the boulder.

Enter the crumbling ruins that guard the first high bolt. Crux move to second bolt. (Can be avoided by stepping far right.) Ramble through the ledges and moss filled cracks to the fabled city of gold. Fun. Long. Exit from chains on the final ledge. 60m is perfectly fine.

Up mini crack and ledges. Thin and getting thinner as all the edges round off.

2 metres further right up the gully. 2 bolts on small features to the ironstone ledge before a difficult finish.

2 metres right up the gully. Follow tufa to ironstone ledge, balance with difficulty to next ledge. Throw to sloppy top.

2 metres further right. Start on the flake of rock, up the clean slab and over the overlap. Romp to top.

Straight up the guts of the wall. Protect with small Friends.

Start on the scree slope and single bolt of No Country For Old Men and head right. Follow the right slanting thin crack using the crack as far as you like, breaking for the slab when you feel like it. Hard to clean. Exit with care through right hand break in summit cap and Belay from large tree at top.

Face climbing to nice ledges. Trend slightly right.

start left of the tree. Use the tree for as long as your legs can reach. Pull up the ledges to a tricky top. Can you do it without the tree?

Dynamic reaches between iron stone bands. Easier for the tall. Take care with clipping.

First route on the mini slab. Pull past horizontal break and then up to the reinforced hold. Micro holds all the way to the final over lap and jugs.

Right hand side of the slab. Start on the conveniently positioned old tree trunk. Pull up slab into curving crack, lay back with style and surmount the head wall with care.

Start at the very low point of the crag. Meanders up through the old descent gully on really cool features.

1. (15) - Grit stone-esk slab. Follow 5 bolts to large ledge and tree. Double bolt belay.

2. (17) - Up short wall behind anchors(Tree often used as a footer.) Traverse right 3 metres to base of giant gully. 7 bolts up blunt arete, through less than perfect rock to another large ledge and tree. Double bolt belay.

3. (17) - 8 bolts up face to large ledge. Belay from double ring bolts on the right.

4. (18)- Trend left over easy broken ground to the bottom of the giant blocks. Pull up through blocks, taking care on the final boulder problem. Addition protection from an old bolting Friend in the crack if you are feeling a little exposed. (Hard move but sympathetically bolted.) Pointless but so much fun.

The leftward slanting crack, starting at The Bridge and ending at the anchors of Cereal Killer. Clip the first (and second if you like you ankles to remain undamaged) bolts on The Bridge and then trad it up to the convenient anchors at the top of the crack.

2 metres right of Cereal Killer, up through gold towards the honeycomb roof.

First route on the wall. Easy jug hauling.

Up through the cheese following the slight hanging flake. Trend right at half height or when you can be bothered. 2 bolts set back from the lip to avoid the bash through the spider infested jungle.

Bay to the left of Snitches. Left hand crack and wall. Exit left onto slash Wall ledge.

Long reaches to good ledges. Trend right. Exit with care into bush above. 2 bolts over the lip to access or lower from.

Mini wall with the descent station of Raptures Wall on it's far left side. The obvious crack on the right hand side of the wall.

1. 15m (17) 3 x FH to vertical hand/feet crack. Cams #1-3 then to DFH belay. The money pitch. Fun feature climbing up to the crack where your cams come into play. What's your crack plan? Lay back or jam?

Three good easy pitches going leftwards up the spine of the buttress

1. 20m (11) 5 x FH to DFH belay. Beginner fun on easy slab.

2. 20m (13) 5 x FH to DFH belay. More beginner fun on easy slab.

3. 20 (10) 5 x FH. Head up diagonally left, over step, and left up seam DFH belay, walk off carefully left (or stay belayed)

1. 15m (17) 3 x FH to vertical hand/feet crack. Cams #1-3 then to DFH belay. The money pitch. Fun feature climbing up to the crack where your cams come into play. What's your crack plan? Lay back or jam?

Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc at a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around).

1. (16) Start on top of the flake at the bottom of the buttress, high first bolt. Pull with interest onto the wall, 6 bolts to large ledge, lower off here if you're doing the first pitch only, or continue to double rings set back on ledge.

2. 10m (17) Cross over Orchid Alley to right line of bolts to next large ledge.

3. 14m (17) Right of top pitch of Orchid Alley, 4 BRs contributed by James Bulititude and then a further 2 bolts through the final head wall. Belay from double rings.

The left most route as you arrive after the scramble down the descent gully. Thankfully stops before the band of choss is encountered. Short and fun warm up.

Middle of the slab. Thin moves well protected.

Clip the first two bolts from the ground to avoid swinging. Heel hook for all you are worth. Avoid anything that is not a massive hold (everything else my well give way!) and thug your way to the top. Enjoyable, surprisingly.

2nd route on the wall as you face the cliff. Great climbing with the exception of one band of choss. Great holds all the way up.

First line of bolts on this wall. Start 3 metres into the gully. Steep start, long lunge, beautiful holds. Short and fun.

Right of Snooze. Pull over two bulges and onto the crack and slab. Romp up the nice looking orange rock to the anchors shared with Snooze. The route starts just left of the bush 2m up, watch the tree when lowering!!

The second route as you walk in, located on the slab used by pesky abseilers. Bolted for the beginner leader and for the short (or more accurately a six year olds height.)

Start at the far right of the crag in the cool little gully. Up the middle of the little wall. Hard start, cool holds to finish.

one missing bolt mid route as of 10/12/2017 Start up the fine finger crack and proceed with care through the bands of weird rock to an easy finish.

Start in the cave. Back and foot up the chimney (if you are too young to know what that means then google it youth). Take care after the third bolt as it is run out, stay in the cave where it is nice and safe. Exit left with the grace of a goat or the flop of a whale to the anchor of Dole Bludgers.

Crimpy moves flowing nicely up the faint line of weakness. Start 2metres left of the narrow cave.

luz en una cueva (light in a cave) Opposite this route is a cave that has a gold circle of light that shines late afternoon like there is a lamp inside. Anyway, very technical and challenging climbing past 4 bulges on amazing rock. Only 1 star because of the batman to the first bolt.

luz en una cueva (light in a cave) Opposite this route is a cave that has a gold circle of light that shines late afternoon like there is a lamp inside. Anyway, very technical and challenging climbing past 4 bulges on amazing rock. Only 1 star because of the batman to the first bolt.

The big crack. Adventure trad. Dirty, loose and thruchy. Mmm. The large pillar at the bottom of the route recently detached so protect is a little limited for the first 3 metres. Have fun. Bolt added December 2018 to protect the landfall section. Care still required.

Up crack and then step left on to blocks. Finish at tree.

Same start as Ruined Childhood. At big ledge take the right hand thin crack. Care required with gear.

Large crack on the main face. Start in the small cave. Either pull straight up at a grade harder or wimp out to the better rock on the right. Belay from the tree at the top.

2 metres down hill from Schadenfreude. Up dirty dirty ledge to corner crack. Up to top.

10 metres further around the headland. The next detached pillar. Climb crack until small roof. Round roof on right to loose top.

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Originally no protection, soloed by Tim Cartwright, now bolted. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

Slab and crack system. For abseil, take a longer rope or two ropes as one of the pitches is longer than 30m.

2 expansion bolts anchor.

Same anchor as More fun than shopping for shoes.

Trad anchor + 1 bolt. Scramble down for the descent (to the right facing the cliff).

Easy buttress starting directly out of the Kloof bed. Trending right, Double ring bolt lower-offs.

Face climb. Sit start. Behind small tree.

Complete the first half of the traverse and continue traversing until the end of the sector.

Right hand arete.

Start in the recess with the overhung book corner. Step right and romp to the top. Anchors over the lip in the top gold band.

Sit start. Behind the big tree. Thin.

Left hand end of the cave. Up large holds past two ledges.

Shallow arete / runnel.

Start under the bookend corner. Trend left on large holds. A couple of great dynamic moves on dinner plate iron stone.

Start at Hole. Sit start.