Thought I was starting on Halfway Damned...
Done as one pitch - goes OK with lots of extension but take doubles 0.4-1 if doing this. Outrageous steep juggy roofcrack with no jamming required.
Lead both pitches, had originally tried to link them but was worried of the drag in the overhanging part of p2. After having done it, really should have linked, after the overhang of p2 its all grade 10? Climbing to the anchor so drag be damned.
Surprisingly good climb deserves more than the 1 star the book gives it. The cruxes are just really cool!
Both pitches are like indoor bouldering problems but with added height and gear. Didn't have a cam to fit the roof (#5 is the go here) so had to settle with just not falling.
really enjoyed this one! good to have a tall guy around to place a high piece to protect the roofcrack before i go! really fun moves. high heel then straddle the bulge!
Mostly easy, with a couple of tricky sections - the traverse left on P1 is a bit thin, and then the roof on P2 is quite thuggish, but everything in between is uninspiring. Done as one big pitch, and had huge rope drag by the roofcrux finish, even with double ropes. Took cams up to BD #2, but it looked like a #4 would have been handy for mid-crux, just above the roof.
with Ed, went back to face my demons...very scary (9/1/05) took a 7 metre screamer into wall after the traverse. Walked (slowly) away. No 1 Camalot held. Flash pump from previous day. First and last climb of day
