adventurous but brief: got a few droplets while Shane led p1; agreed to go until we got rained off. low crack transfer on p2 looked vegetated so i spent a while contemplating the big committing slab traverse higher up, not liking the friction or potential swing (or invert if i stepped on the sling). thankfully the weather escalated before i had to wuss out. the granite was soaked before i started lowering, and we were getting lashed with hailstones by the time i was at the belay.
getting off was the priority so i started the rap down p1 without looking at the topo. tried to think heavy thoughts as i sorted out the rope; kept going given the thunderstorm and knowing i had a full rack. turns out a 70m won't get you to the ground from p1 anchors but will get you to pinscars ~3m up where a #.75 and #.1 will hold even submerged in a minor waterfall, which will get you off the rope to work out next steps. not necessarily saying my decisions were good but they were deliberate and (quickly) considered, with risks and contingencies in mind
Day 1 yosemite (real day 1 after dylan and i hoofed up some 9s near camp yesterday. Serenity sons link up was pretty wild climbing. Quite like angels in buffalo except with a whole pitch manufactured with pin scars. How very american.
Amazing. Worth waiting in line for. Crux was powerful but very secure on bomber finger locks. Pretty happy to get the onsight. Rapped after serenity because of the huge crowds on Sons.
With Stephen. OS P1, Clean 2nd P2, 1 fall at crux P3, then clean to top from below crux (with no extra gear). Mega, but felt HARD. The unprotected 8m greasy friction slab start on P1 had me working the headgames to keep calm in the sweaty sun, and leads to super-sustained thin seam-crack. P2 was easier fingers and ringlocks with an awesome friction step across and an insecure seam-crux. P3 was awesomesteep jams to an insane fingercrack crux with no feet that felt like trad 24 for back home
Partnered with Bill. Lead pitches 1&2. The bolt was removed from the first pitch protecting the first 30 feet of climbing. Managed to get in a .75 with two lobes at about 15 feet, and good piece right next to where the bolt used to be located.
We were the first of 11 parties to do this route today! Most people's experience of this one is either having someone up their arse or being up someone's arse. I managed to lead the whole thing aswell as son's and keep the guide who was following us at bay. (He'd done the route 50+ times.) with Taylor Zentner (PN)
Makes my top five climbs of all time. The 10d crux is incredible, nothing short of perfect. Linked it to Sons of Yesterday but my partner got tired and we had to bail. I fell at the crux but relead it on the way down.
getting off was the priority so i started the rap down p1 without looking at the topo. tried to think heavy thoughts as i sorted out the rope; kept going given the thunderstorm and knowing i had a full rack. turns out a 70m won't get you to the ground from p1 anchors but will get you to pinscars ~3m up where a #.75 and #.1 will hold even submerged in a minor waterfall, which will get you off the rope to work out next steps. not necessarily saying my decisions were good but they were deliberate and (quickly) considered, with risks and contingencies in mind