Showing all 33 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Makoron Land | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Shower Colon | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting and sometimes awkward climb. I used the tree at the top which makes it easier - next time I'll try without.
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Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Cinderella face | ||||||
5.8 | Tom Sawyer | 20m | ||||
Up the gully / groove to the right of Pumpkin Coach. A nice climb spoiled by very old and mostly psychological pro - badly needs re-equipping.
Descent Options: You could lower off a bunch of old manky tat attached precariously to rusty bolts and fraying ropes like I did - or pull your rope and step over to the top of Cinderella and lower off that. Anchors badly need replacing. |
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5.6 | ★ Pumpkin Coach | 15m | ||||
easy, good clean fun
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5.7 | ★★ Cinderella | 17m | ||||
Nice line, good fun.
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Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Ali Baba area | ||||||
5.10a 5.10a/b | ★★ Anne | 10m, 4 | ||||
Nice route, got the onsight but only just... steeper than it looks at the crux
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5.10b | ★★ Ali Baba | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, steeper than it looks, with delicate fingery crux. Well protected so a good lead for new to the grade. Took one fall.
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Sat 10th Apr 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Silk Road | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Good intro to the area, it is a trade route and always crowded. Well protected, good for the new leader.
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5.8 | ★ Inchiki Suruna (Don't Cheat) | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Karesawa Gamma Upper | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Ultra 7 | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Kawaii Onna | 18m | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | Hourouheki | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Took three tries to get through this - one move wonder, but interestingly technical. Scary descent.
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5.9 | Ogawayama Short Story | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Nishimatazawa Taigan Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Kawakami Kouta | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Santao XXX | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Regular | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Karesawa Gamma Face | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Gamma Crack | 15m | ||||
backed off this - crux jam stripped skin off my hands
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Thu 1st Apr 2010 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Karesawa Gamma Slabs | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Braveheart | 27m | ||||
5.10b | ★ Heart & Soul | 27m | ||||
5.10a | ★ KC's Banana Cake | 30m | ||||
5.9 | Monban no Musume | 13m | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Keroyon | 25m | ||||
Mon 1st Feb 2010 - Maku Iwa | ||||||
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Sunset | 9m, 3 | ||||
Short but sweet. Juggy first section leads to interesting crux - great pocket hold out right and looong reach for next holds. Will lead it next time.
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5.10a | ★ Abracadabra | 6m, 2 | ||||
My first 5.10 in the wild for a long time, but its only a few moves long, a highball boulder problem with 2 bolts. Nice climb for all that.
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Sat 30th Jan 2010 - Jo-yama | ||||||
Minami kabe | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Battlerunner | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A Joyama classic, excellent route. I led the easy pitches, my partner did the 5.10a crux and the last (somewhat runout) pitch.
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5.8 | ★ Homeboy | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun
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Mon 7th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Nishimatazawa Taigan Chichi Iwa | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Ogawayama Story - with Tokyo Bill | 30m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fell off at the top, did it with a rest
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5.10a | ★★ Ogawayama Street - with Tokyo Bill | 26m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, thin & sustained, tough at the top.
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Mon 7th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Yane Iwa Yane Iwa II | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Nanryu Kanagawa Route - with Naoya Suzuki, Steve Phillpott | 150m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Classic old-school climb high up over the valley and following the obvious line of weaknesses. Rock a little variable, but fine where it counts. Mostly trad placements, but with one bolted belay station and 3 or 4 bolts where it is hard to find pro. Great views & positions. I'd be happy to lead all pitches, but the 5.8 squeeze chimney would be a bit exciting as no pro inside for 6-7m, and its hard if you don't have good technique (I don't...)
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Sun 6th Sep 2009 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Karesawa Gamma Lower Slab | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Gamma Route | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Several versions of P1, and P2 & 3 only. ONe day would like to do the whole route.
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5.8 | ★ New Gamma 1 | 23m | ||||
5.9 | ★ New Gamma 3 | 28m | ||||
5.9 | ★ New Gamma 4 | 27m | ||||
5.8 | ★ New Gamma 5 | 27m |
Showing all 33 ascents.