Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 5th Oct 2017 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face | ||||||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike - with Steve Phillpott | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome climb! P1 & P3 quite interesting for those not used to slab, then some serious but easy runouts. Superb position, awesome views, great walking on the way out - a very big day, and something I'll always remember.
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Wed 4th Oct 2017 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Sunnyside Bench | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Regular Route - with Alex Rogers, Steve Phillpott | 120m | ★ Good | |||
We got lost somewhere on this and turned it into a 5.8 instead, but good fun, and nice to get above the valley floor, great views
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Sat 30th Sep 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Hogwild Area | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ It's Better With Bacon - with Steve Phillpott, Peter Monks | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
We toproped P1, and rapped after P4 - perfect way to do this climb. Great fun, well protected, great ledges, and interesting or challenging moves on most pitches
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Fri 29th Sep 2017 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Cathedral Range Area Cathedral Peak | ||||||
5.6 5.6 III | ★★★ Southeast Buttress - with Steve Phillpott | 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome, great alpine adventure, easy climbing in spectacular position, with amazing views growing better with each pitch. Were a good number of people on the route, we eventually did a diversion around the Chimney section in order to get up & off before weather came in. Great climb.
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Fri 29th Sep 2017 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Pywiack Area Pywiack Dome | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Zee Tree - with Steve Phillpott | 220m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great fun, good intro to slab climbing multipitch in the area. Quite well protected by local standards, feels run out by mine. Did not do the last pitch as we rapped back down the Dike Route. Steve did most of the leading on this.
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Thu 28th Sep 2017 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Medlicott Area Dozier Dome | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Holdless Horror - with Steve Phillpott | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic climb, well protected, much less intimidating that it initially appears. Long but beautiful walk off the back, start early if you want to do a few of these climbs.
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Sun 24th Sep 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap East Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Pop Bottle - with Steve Phillpott, Peter Monks | 130m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Great fun. Pete led P1, I did P2, steve P3, fun was had by all. P1 definitely the meat of the climb, 1 hard move off the ledge on P2 and then cruising. Good intro to the wall
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5.7 5.7 R | ★★★ Bear's Reach - with Steve Phillpott | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome climb. Led all pitches, had a blast, overcame some fears, climbed well. Very steep and a little intimidating, but is always easier than it looks .
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Sat 23rd Sep 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Hogwild Area | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Hogwild - with Steve Phillpott, Peter Monks | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really quite spicy for a 5.7, people new to granite may find it interesting, as I did. Excellent climbing with bolts where you need them most.
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Fri 22nd Sep 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap The Hogsback | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Knapsack Crack - with Steve Phillpott | 91m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good intro climb for the area
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Sun 6th Aug 2017 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Vox Populi Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Red Room - with Steve Phillpott | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More of a slab than arete, it has some delicate moves for the grade. Very good.
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20 | ★★ Silver Fox - with Steve Phillpott | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climb - quite thought provoking. Wimped out and took a hang at the top before committing to the (surprisingly easy) final move
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17 | ★★ Dorothy the Dinosaur - with Steve Phillpott | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice slabbing, felt a bit tenuous in places
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Sun 6th Aug 2017 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Central Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Open to Public Scrutiny - with Steve Phillpott | 20m | ★ Good | |||
A nice warmup
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15 | ★★ Alpine - with Steve Phillpott | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, easy warmup
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15 | ★ Parents in Pain - with Steve Phillpott | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
One tricky move then fun cruise up the arete
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17 | ★ First Born - with Steve Phillpott | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Nice climb, particularly the steeper headwall
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Sun 9th Jul 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
14 |
★★★ Sweet Dreams
- with
Steve Phillpott
1
lead by
Steve Phillpott
2
lead by
Alex Rogers
3
lead by
Steve Phillpott
4
lead by
Alex Rogers
5
lead by
Steve Phillpott
6
| 130m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great day out on a cool but clear winters day. Never got above 7 degrees, but we were sheltered from the wind and had a great cruisy climb over about 3.5 hours
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Tue 13th Jun 2017 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks North Buttress Northern Slabs | ||||||
11 | ★ Melmoth - with Steve Phillpott | 80m | ★ Good | |||
Followed P1, Led P2. Fun slabbing, P1 quality is great but pro is scarce, P2 has gear where you need it but the rock a little crustier.
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Mon 12th Jun 2017 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks North Buttress Determinant Sector | ||||||
12 | ★★ Little Hermes - with Steve Phillpott | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Led p1, Steve led P2. Nice climb, but would have been better in the afternoon sun - in the shade all morning in winter, and we got pretty cold!
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Mon 12th Jun 2017 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks North Buttress Northern Slabs | ||||||
15 | ★ Ephemeros - with Steve Phillpott | 75m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led P1 only - great fun, with spaced bolts making it safe but still a bit interesting
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14 | ★ Tachyon - with Steve Phillpott | 80m | ||||
Have wanted to do this for a while, but always too wet. this time in perfect condition, great laybacking up the flake & well protected.
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16 | ★ Eagle Eye Direct - with Steve Phillpott | 65m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Top roped the first pitch, and led P2 & 3. P1 quite friable and mossy, with first bolt at 20m - be careful. Managed to fall off P2, but took more care on 2nd try. Again be careful, protection above the overlap is a marginal wire then a long runout on increasingly easy ground.
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8 | ★★ Drunken Delight - with Steve Phillpott | 85m | ★ Good | |||
Steve led P1 and I led P2 this time, good fun and surprisingly well protected.
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9 | ★★ Sunstroke - with Steve Phillpott | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Led pitch 3, Steve led 1/2 and 4. Then also led P4 as final pitch of Eagle Eye Direct
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Tue 6th Jun 2017 - Bangor West | ||||||
20 | ★ Sports Injury Clinic - with steve phillpott | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Probably cheated the lower section by using the slab to the right for feet up to the (high) first bolt.
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19 | ★★ Fixed Steps - with steve phillpott | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Slabby fun down low
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20 | ★ A Loving Hole - with steve phillpott | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Had two shots at this - first time messed up the exit sequence, hung, and then got it right. Pulled ropes and led it clean.
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17 | ★ Python - with steve phillpott | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Fun warmup
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16 | ★ Grandma's Wheelchair - with steve phillpott | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice easy warmup on a cold day
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14 | ★ Get Walking - with steve phillpott | 9m, 3 | Average | |||
An okay warmup
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20 21 | ★ Killer's Kidneys - with steve phillpott | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good, keeps coming at you with 3 distinct crux sections. Got up it, but haven't strung it all together. Had two shots at it, but was the last climb of the day & ran out of fingertips.
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Wed 31st May 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall - with Steve Phillpott | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Would be quite a necky lead, the start is hard and the traverse delicate
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11 | ★ Angular Crack - with Steve Phillpott | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Following Steve's lead
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17 | ★★★ Flake Crack - with Steve Phillpott | 53m | ★★★ Classic | |||
TR of first pitch only - good fun, next time I'll lead it
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15 | ★★ Hope - with Steve Phillpott | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Fun lead, one tough move but well protected
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Sun 28th May 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Arrow and the Song - with Brian Lynch | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Fun warmup. Might have wandered too far left, but all similar grade in this area. seems to be a new leftmost climb starting up overhung arete.
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16 | ★ Karinya - with Brian Lynch | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Another nice warmup, well protected fun
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18 | ★★ Jolly Good Fellow (Happy New Year) - with Brian Lynch | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Steep and juggy fun
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18 | ★★ Jolly Good Fellow - with Brian Lynch | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
More steep juggy fun
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17 | ★★ Hermione - with Brian Lynch | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this. Now a safe sport climb, no gear needed
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19 | ★★ Mike and Lorna go to Town - with Brian Lynch | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Getting late in the day, one fall when I messed up the sequence on tricky top headwall
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19 | ★★ Little Triggers - with Brian Lynch | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fantastic, steep and reachy through little overhangs, very juggy, just commit and go. My favourite of the day
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Mon 15th May 2017 - Bangor West | ||||||
20 | ★★ Lucky's Roof - with Knox Low | 5m, 5 | ||||
Good fun, wasn't sure I could do this but felt pretty easy, great jugs and heel hooks (leg hooks!)
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17 | ★ Python - with Knox Low | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sweet arete fondling
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20 | ★ Pyromaniac - with Knox Low | 9m, 3 | ||||
Tried the direct start a few times, then got up by the regular start, but totally dogged it. Need to think about feet more
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16 15 | ★★ Andrew's Bulge - with Knox Low | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Steep juggy fun
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17 | ★★ The Whorl - with Knox Low | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warmup - good fun once you get over the committing start
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16 | ★ Dorothy May - with Knox Low | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Tough start (felt harder than The Whorl) leads to easy climbing
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20 | ★ The Shire Republic - with Knox Low | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Fun, took a fall but then worked out feet and got it, can do this clean next time.
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18 | ★ NFM - with Knox Low | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Quite hard start then easier as you go up
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Mon 1st May 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ The Phantom - with steve phillpott | 31m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good fun, tough start, great hand traverse, runout but easy steep finish. Great variety for its grade
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Mon 13th Mar 2017 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Kersplat - with Steve Phillpott | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good thin slabbing, tough start then quite sustained at about 16 to the top
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Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - with Steve Phillpott | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nails hard start, just couldn't work out any rational moves. Batmanned up 2m, and then it climbed very nicely from there.
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17 | ★ Herd Instinct - with Steve Phillpott | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Usual tough start then easier to the top
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Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
7 7 R | ★ Shagrat - with Steve Phillpott | 65m | Don't Bother | |||
We went exploring, found the climb, scrambled up part way and found a nesting kestrel on the route so backed off. Despite the grade this is not a beginners route.
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12 | ★ Blame it on Sarah - with Steve Phillpott | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyable ramble, did this in one pitch all the way up the flake crack leading to the top anchors above Celeborn (50m).
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15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses - with Steve Phillpott | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Was absolutely spanked by this, retreated in terror from about 3m. You need to be able to jamb well to do this safely (and I need more practice on something friendlier)
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Sat 11th Mar 2017 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
16 14 | ★ Sitting Pretty (Unknown Name) - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very clean climb, great for getting your head around quite tenuous slabbing
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17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 35m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Seconded Knox. Not especially hard (now that I'm getting some confidence in my slab feet) but really quite long runouts - falling anywhere could be nasty, and decking from first or second bolt a possibility. Was happy to have a rope above me.
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17 | ★ Celeborn - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Top roped from OB top anchors. R rating is from the slippery lichen-covered ramp leading to the base of the corner, and well deserved, Once you get to the main corner it would protect very well - but don't fall below there.
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21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 25m, 4 | ||||
Couldn't stick the awkward overlap move - saw how it could be done, but couldn't rock up onto the toehold. One to work up to.
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18 | ★ Jika Jika - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Delicate crux down low (that took a couple of goes) and then cruising
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16 | ★ Optem Bop - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I had previously failed on this, so was good to get it first go. Committing rockover onto small feet from unusual undercling - but easy enough with a bit of focus.
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18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 33m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Not too tough, quite similar in feeling to Optem Bop and not much harder for me. Starting to get a feel for what is needed on granite.
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13 | ★ Tanner's Leap - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Followed Knox up to the top - star mostly for the step over, and the great views from the top. Maybe take some tat to reinforce the antique rap anchor.
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15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) - with Knox Low, Steve Phillpott | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup for the day - felt much better than before. A really good little climb.
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Sun 19th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Gently Mine - with Steve Phillpott, Knox Low | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second time on the route, what a nice climb. Steep enough to be interesting, juggy enough and with enough pro to feel safe.
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21 | ★★ Pig Iron Slaughter - with Knox Low | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Knox made it look easy on lead, I found it right at my limit on second. Vertical slabbing on a rounded arete = super insecure!
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Sun 19th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Baby Carrots - with Steve Phillpott, Knox Low | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun, the rap is spectacular and the hook amusing. 3 of us did this and the semi-hanging belay is squeezy, consider doing it with 2 only. Spectacular position and easy airy climbing with one thought-provoking move to keep it honest.
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12 | ★★ Air2Spare - with Steve Phillpott, Knox Low | 35m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun - an airy rap to a reasonable ledge, and fun easy climbing to get out. Take a few pieces to supplement the bolts - and enjoy the view!
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18 | ★★★ Gold Star - with Steve Phillpott, Knox Low | 58m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The first pitch is wonderful crack climbing, and well protected, next time I must lead it myself. P2 is quite a bit more thought provoking, but good climbing on clean rock
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Sun 18th Dec 2016 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
17 14 | ★ Sitting Pretty (Unknown Name) - with Steve Phillpott | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt super thin, would rate this at least 17. Very consistent, lovely clean rock, great route
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Sun 18th Dec 2016 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Googolplex Crag | ||||||
14 | ★ Passionate Pleasantries - with Steve Phillpott | 30m | Average | |||
The climb is sadly neglected - we had to burrow into the moss and lichen to establish ourselves on the slab, then excavate the spiders, leaves, lichen and moss from all the pockets and holds. The top bolt is very poor. Would really be a very nice easy grade slab if properly cleaned. A newer (10-15 years old?) line of bolts runs up extreme left of slab next to gully, almost completely buried in 10cm of moss. There is a DBB & chains on top of P1, chains almost rusted through, but SS DBB glue-in ringbolts still okay.
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Sun 18th Dec 2016 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
14 | Lipstick - with Steve Phillpott | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
Very delicate start, and quite tricky to overlap, then easy to top
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13 | Deft - with Steve Phillpott | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Very lichenous, no pro, ok toprope if you already have anchor set up otherwise I wouldn't bother.
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17 | ★ Kersplat - with Steve Phillpott | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Found the moves past the first bolt very hard. Fell off and lowered a few times, then eventually stuck the move and sweated my way up. Good slabbing!
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Sun 27th Nov 2016 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
15 17 | ★ Blue Train (Dyke) - with Steve Phillpott | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent route - a couple of tricky moves, then fun easy climbing up the dyke
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Sun 13th Nov 2016 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Steve Phillpott, Sandra Parker | 33m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Felt hard - very thin. Tried leading, backed off before 2nd bolt, wasn't prepared to commit. Did it on TR, but only just.
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12 | ★ Nerves of Rubber - with Steve Phillpott, Sandra Parker | 30m, 2 | Average | |||
Quite damp and very mossy / lichenous on the bottom section. Much nicer rock further up, but the difficulty is done.
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Sun 13th Nov 2016 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
14 | Through the Looking Glass - with Steve Phillpott, Sandra Parker | 30m | Average | |||
Only to the chains - did not go up the squeeze chimney which looked horrendous for a 14...
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19 | ★ Jonestown - with Steve phillpott, Sandra Parker | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, got it clean, wouldn't like to lead it yet
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19 | ★ Greenies' Delight - with Steve Phillpott, Sandra Parker | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good, thin, felt a little harder than Jonestown. Fell off once at the bottom, then got it clean.
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Sat 27th Aug 2016 - Dural | ||||||
Lower Teir | ||||||
15 | ★ Rekorderlig & Vodka - with Sandra Parker | 8m, 3 | Crap | |||
Toproped this on way to clean shared anchors with TMQ. Glad I did, fell off twice when holds broke, and had at least 2 more holds break. It is a sandcastle, not a climb.
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16 | ★ Too Many Questions - with Sandra Parker | 8m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Very soft rock, the crux is not breaking off the critical holds.
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12 | ★ Suburban & Coke - with Sandra Parker | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Would be quite nice if you could trust the flakes
|
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15 14 | ★ Moist Myrtle - with Sandra Parker | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Quite a hard start - at least 15 (think a lot of these climbs will get harder as the holds fall off or dissolve in the rain)
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13 15 | ★ 3 Weeks in Parent Pergatory - with Sandra Parker | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Felt very easy.
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Sat 27th Aug 2016 - Dural | ||||||
Top Teir | ||||||
16 | ★ Rushing Mobsters - with Sandra Parker | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
14 | Inteferon is my Kryptonite - with Sandra Parker | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Sciatica - with Sandra Parker | 7m, 2 | Average | |||
10 | ★ Termiteator - with Sandra Parker | 7m, 2 | Average | |||
13 | ★ Violent Crumble - with Sandra Parker | 7m, 2 | Average | |||
Sun 14th Aug 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph - with Steve Phillpott | 46m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Steve - lovely route. P1 only
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Sun 14th Aug 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
8 | ★ Faith - with Steve Phillpott | 52m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good easy fun route with great protection
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15 | ★★ Hope - with Steve Phillpott | 15m | ★ Good | |||
It might be a one-move wonder, but it is quite a committing move!v Good fun, know your fingerlocks.
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13 | ★ Sincerity - with Steve Phillpott | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Such a lovely clean route, pity the direct finish is so much harder
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13 | ★ Charity - with Steve Phillpott | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Sacrificed a cam to the booty gods, sob!
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Sun 14th Aug 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Descent Gully Area | ||||||
11 | ★ The Bonatti Crack - with Steve Phillpott | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Well protected, good clean fun
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9 | ★ Great Unwashed - with Steve Phillpott | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good - good positions and quite adventurous feeling in positions, but very easy and well protected - a great beginner climb
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