Ascents in Tongariro National Park by Alexei Drummond

My fear on these steep routes is that the clips will be desperate or the moves will be impossibly hard. But neither appeared to be the case for me on this route. Did all the moves to the last bolt and clipped the bolts from clipping positions. Pretty fun actually.

Apparently this move into the groove has defeated me on redpoint. Routine in isolation. There is also a full rest before it, so I have no excuses apart from being a really bad climber.

Climbed clean to the 6th bolt but then didn't have the juice to hug the fridge.

Warm up? Failed to onsight as I couldn't get into the groove. Cruxy route as the rest is much easier climbing.

Climbed clean to the six bolt. Got into the double heel hook on the fridge but then couldn't hold the left slap up. If you have bad cardio like me then the altitude can affect you at this crag.

Dialled the moves to the roof some more. Tried Alex's method for clipping the second bolt in the roof and found that I am too weak.

Clipped the first bolt in the roof then came down. The face climbing part is fairly easy but the altitude got me pumped really fast.

Another play on the first moves. Found a double knee bar rest on the second hold 😂. Clipped the third bolt and that was enough for me. Pretty crunched up getting into the undercling and then moving right for the fourth bolt clip.

Tried the first few moves.

Bolting between 2nd and anchor a bit spaced. Hit the left arete just below anchor bolt.

Just happy to get to the anchor. Either trying this on the third day climbing was a bad idea or I am just not strong enough yet

Nice warm up.

Taking down gear.

Putting up top rope.

Putting the gear up to the fifth bolt for Alex’s send

Second redpoint of this route on my sixth go overall. This one was much tidier than the first send, but I still mucked around getting over the bulge after clipping the fifth bolt. I am very happy with a tidier repeat though!

First go of the day and third attempt overall.

Redpoint. Although the left hand press beta to get the undercling for the 4th bolt was desperate. I also fought a long time in an insecure knee-bar below the fifth bolt before getting up over the bulge. Not pretty, but clean

Onsight, but I Ondra shouted a few times! First bolt high and a little run out for the next couple. Was very wet at the top which made things very interesting.

Cruisy and very nice!

2nd attempt. Climbed clean to between 3rd and 4th bolt. Worked out beta to 4th bolt and then climbed clean to the top of first pitch.

Flash attempt. Clipped first three bolts then rested. Dogged 4th and 5th clip as well learning the moves.

Warm up Just climbed the first 23m pitch. Seems the crux is pulling through the bulge.