Ascents in Waikato by Alexei Drummond

Second go mid afternoon. Much better conditions. Did all the moves in a few hangs except for clipping the 6th bolt (which I grabbed instead). If you mantle out right it seems perhaps easier than 26. If you mantle direct to the anchor it seems harder. Up to the last bolt felt 24-25ish, though maybe it would feel harder on the send.

Onsight attempt didn't last long Got to the 5th bolt with one hang and was sweating in full sun, so decided to try again later.

Red point, second tie-in. Such a nice bit of bouldering on a rope! Glad we checked it out. #2ndGo

Flash attempt. Thought I had gotten through the first crux but let my guard down standing up after having done the hard moves and fell. I tried the start again but then hung at the second bolt. Then worked out the moves to the top.

Not the best idea trying to flash this for the warm-up. Fell in the crux around 4th bolt. Then pulled on and went to the top.

Barefoot repeat for fun.

Super fun boulder.

Hung at first bolt. Then to top. Quite hard boulder problem for a 23.

Flash attempt. First three moves are fine. Then there are a couple of really hard moves. From first bolt it’s a walk.

Red point! Not in the best style as the second bolt was pre-clipped, but very satisfying nonetheless. Awesome route. I definitely need to come back and do it with only first pre-clipped as I ended up resting at the second bolt clipping position anyway So fun doing this with Tom on the same day.

Second attempt of the day. Second bolt pre-clipped. One hang at 4th bolt. Fingers numbed out setting up for the move to the ledge.

First attempt of the day. Just had first bolt preclipped but wasn’t recruited and the holds needed brushing.

Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.

First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.

Third go of the day. Took some serious lobs between 1st and 2nd. Decided that I like the backflag technique for clipping 4th. All and all a slightly frustrating session in not great conditions. But still made some progress.

Second go of the day. Decided that the shouldery approach to the start of the first crux is actually more straightforward and predictable. Guess I am still learning the beta.

Persisted with my beta for getting on to the layback in the lower crux, but it seems too powerful and fickle. Did the top crux again quite easily.

Last go of the day. I keep falling low today. But at least I have linked 1st to 2nd three times and finessed the top crux, completing it 3 times in 4 attempts today. So a good session. I think if I can get through the first crux from the ground I will have a good chance. Maybe 1-2 more sessions.

Second go of the day. Again fell low, but linked 1st to 2nd again. Decided to go to the anchors to remind myself about the final section shared with Robin. Not at easy as I would have liked it

First go of the day. Fell early, but then linked the lower crux from ledge to 2nd bolt clipping stance and clipped it. Felt pretty spooky. The top crux is starting to feel pretty dialled, and I found a slightly easier way to get left foot on jug through the middle section. All moves done now

(Wet) warm up. Mostly easy except one move at the bulge where the damp footholds put me off smearing and I fell trying to do it a stupid way. Pulled back on and went to the top.

Still can’t link one move to the clipping hold for 2nd bolt. But did the top crux again quite easily and just climbed up onto the ledge to get into the Robin route. Game on.

Top crux suits me really well. I can static to the ledge quite easily. Bottom crux between 1st and 2nd bolt has the hardest move for me.

A really cool route. But I was way too scared to whip on the crux bolt because it was beyond rusty. I called take and gingerly weighted it before going to the top. Super psyched to get this rebolted so I can give it a second burn!

Super fun version of the crag classic Coller de Hors. Takes in the full crux without the 16 climbing at the top that requires a 75m rope

Fell going for the last crimp of the crux. Too tired to try this hard today

Too tired to finish the crux after attempts on two 23s and a 26

I just climbed up to check the crux of this one. Happy that I clipped the crux bolt off the crimp coming from the ground. Had a look at the rest of the crux moves. Unfortunately my fingers weren't fresh enough to give it a proper go today (Never use the Tindeq progressor the day before outdoor climbing!). I will have to come back for this as the line is mega.

I had to fight for the onsight. Putting the gear in adds a little, but mainly I had to keep my composure just after the bulge. The top half is good and the first four bolts of climbing were more difficult than anticipated.

Did the full length version but partly by mistake as I think I went too far right and linked in to the top of Coller de Hors

Andrew sorted the beta for me on this one as well

Very cool route! Also very dirty. Was lucky that Andrew cleaned this, as the onsight would have been mega hard. I was still very happy to flash this as the moves are quite technical through the scoop to the last clip.

Quite fun climbing, if a bit chossy at the top and bottom. Fun traverse. Not so fun to clean.

Nice warm up.

A couple of steep moves through the bulge, but all the holds are jugs.

Easy climbing, with a crux that you can't muck around with.

Red point #3rdGo Nice route!

Flubbed the transition to slab

Very close to onsight. Came off in sea of lichen over the lip after the crux.

Nice warm up!

Wow. Tough crux moves. Had no skin left after 9 previous tie ins today, so had no chance. Maybe next time.

Happy with this onsight. But all these routes are just a handful of moves off the ground.

Repeat. At least I did it first go in this session.

Very quickly over.

Big holds and quite fun.

Short sharp and pretty straightforward once I ruled out all the bad holds

Could not work this out on the first tie in. Didn’t have the latest guide so was assuming this was harder than it turned out to be and tried to use ridiculous holds/sequence.

Just did this so I have tied in to every route on Eagle Wall

Quite hard to read crux. I think I did it the 21 way Pretty cool route but I am a sucker for this style.