Showing all 91 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 7th Jun 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.13+ 5.13- | ★★ Little Nipple | 14m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Made it all the way to the top but a couple moves I couldn't do probably a v8 boulder followed by another v6 boulder. My guess is hard 5.13 for the grade. Lots of broken holds...
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5.12c | ★★ Sumo Wrestler | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
First try of the day. Very beta dependent climb
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5.10b | ★★ Banana | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Jun 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Van Damned | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.12c 5.13a | ★★★ Bamboo Reaming | 24m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard 5.12. Bouldery. Sequency. Gets easier half way up
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5.12b 5.12a | ★★★ My Pain For Your Pleasure | 24m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First try of the day. Happy about that. Great climb but be ready for some runout unusual in Linan ! I would give it a soft 5.12b.
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Thu 6th Jun 2019 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.12a |
★★ Dragon Air P1
1
5.12a
30m
| 30m, 18 | ||||
Sat 1st Jun 2019 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.12d 5.12c | ★★ Here Or There ?? | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Jan 2019 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.12c | ★★ Sumo Wrestler | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Made good links today. Now need to get everything done from the ground !
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Sun 20th Jan 2019 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mammut's Hump | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Fake Crack | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very fun climb. Figure out the crack quickly !
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Sun 20th Jan 2019 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Jamm It ! | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 19th Jan 2019 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ My Pain For Your Pleasure | 24m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 19th Jan 2019 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Better Eat Your Wheaties | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
Sat 19th Jan 2019 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mammut's Hump | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Zephyr | 15m, 7 | Average | |||
Sun 21st Oct 2018 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.13b 5.12c | ★★ Sumo Wrestler | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 20th Oct 2018 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Big Trouble Little China | 14m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
It's all about the last move.
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Sat 20th Oct 2018 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Lock Jaw | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 15th Jul 2018 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.12c 5.12b | ★★ Love Lock | 14m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First 12c ever. Got it on second go !
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Sat 14th Jul 2018 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.12c 5.12b | ★★ Love Lock | 14m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Linked it on first go up to the last crux. Tricky to figure out. But a great climb and good bolting
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5.11b | ★★ Jonny's Hard 12 (??) | 4 | Average | |||
The bolting isn't the smartest
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5.10d | ★★ Honey Hole | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
Not an easy onsight. Lots of hidden features
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Sun 26th Nov 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Bob's your uncle | 100m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 25th Nov 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Midlands | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Route Makers, Heart Breakers | 22m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice overhanging route with powerful moves.
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5.11c 5.11b | ★★ Crispi Feet | 22m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Feels easier than 11d. Sustained climb with a nice second crux tricky to figure out.
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Sun 5th Nov 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Come-along Crag | ||||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★ Pip Pip Gerry ('new name pending') | 14m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★ Partnercide | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11b 5.11c | ★★ 5.10+ | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ First blood | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Angry Baboon | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ Ring Lock | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Duck Feet | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Highlands | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Dislocated | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Vertical climb with nice crux on small holds, followed by a long slab climb to the top of Lion's Head. Cool exposure.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.12d | ★★ Heavy Flavour | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good, cruxy, overhanging climb
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Mon 2nd Oct 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Monty Python (Monthy Python) | 24m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 10th Sep 2017 - 新昌石狗洞 Shigoudong | ||||||
小屋檐 Small Roof | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ 翘臀 Popping out (Popping out - 翘臀) | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
5.10b | ★★ 迷东东 Lost in East East (Midongdong - 米东东) | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 10th Sep 2017 - 新昌石狗洞 Shigoudong | ||||||
主岩壁 Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10c 5.11a | ★★ 纯爷们 Real Man (6 纯爷们 Real Man) | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Pure tough slab climbing.
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Sat 9th Sep 2017 - 新昌石狗洞 Shigoudong | ||||||
大岩壁 Big Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Hallowmas | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
One star for the cool moves. But poor bolting at the top.
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Sat 9th Sep 2017 - 新昌石狗洞 Shigoudong | ||||||
主岩壁 Main Cliff | ||||||
5.10d | 达摩 Bohdidharma (10 达摩 Bohdidharma) | 27m, 10 | Average | |||
The bolting at the bottom is bad.
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5.11b | ★★ 完美相伴 Perfect Companions (3 完美相伴 Perfect Companions) | 59m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Not dirty when I climbed it. Mostly slab climbing, with a vertical crux pitch on small holds.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Monthy Python | 24m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mammut's Hump | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Sir Cracks A Lot | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Nice lay back climb. But too short !
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Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Fish Lips | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Ice Fall | 14m, 7 | Average | |||
5.10b | ★★ Attitude | 14m, 7 | Average | |||
Sun 20th Aug 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Big Trouble Little China | 14m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Power Of 3, Crack | 28m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 19th Aug 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Round About | 14m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Handjam Contest | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Kriss Kross | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 19th Aug 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Van Damned | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 28th May 2017 - 南高峰 Nan Gao Peak | ||||||
南高峰山顶 Nan Gao Cliff | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ 风雨无阻 Rain or shine | 15m, 5 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Nameless | 15m, 7 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ 肉蒲团 Sex and Zen | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ 岩友一家 Climber family | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.11c | ★ 东方不败 Invincible Eastern | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Very crimpy from what I remember.
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Sun 28th May 2017 - 南高峰 Nan Gao Peak | ||||||
千人洞 Qianren Cave | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Route 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 16th Apr 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Midlands | ||||||
5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Cracka Lackin | 30m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easier than 10d, but quite a mental fight.
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5.10c | ★★ Virgin Albino | 33m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 15th Apr 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Landing Zone | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Suspended Edge | 18m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 15th Apr 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.11- 5.11b | ★ Better Eat Your Wheaties | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
Very hard start, leaning on a bad crack, with no feet. Finger killer ! Rest of the climb is slab and not really hard.
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Mon 3rd Apr 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The Jesus Line | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ Gutted | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Jungle Jym | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Sat 1st Apr 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Midlands | ||||||
5.11d 5.11b | ★★ Crispi Feet | 22m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
5.11c 5.11b | ★★ Slicin | 30m, 17 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Mudsinger (Musdinger) | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 1st Jan 2017 - 仙居 Xianju | ||||||
牛鼻洞 Niubidong 主岩场 Main Wall | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ 加一马 jiayima (16 - 加一马 (jiayima)) | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One move from the red point ! That last crux is tense. Clearly the hardest and most iconic climb of Xianju's main crag.
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Sat 19th Nov 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.11d 5.12b | ★ Marshmallow Glove | 14m, 7 | Average | |||
Broken hold at the starts make it much harder than the grade. A v6-v7 boulder start I would say. Rest of the route is not harder than 10b.
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5.11c 5.11b | ★★ Chinese Ladders | 11m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Short but very bouldery
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Sun 6th Nov 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ White China | 78m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 5th Nov 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Midlands | ||||||
5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Single Fisted | 25m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
At crux, go a bit left, or it will get hard !
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5.9 5.10a | ★ Did Inhale | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 5th Nov 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Dammit! | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.11a 5.11c | ★★ Scrubadub | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 5.8 | ★ Jiggy With It | 16m, 7 | Average | |||
5.9 | ★ Buggin Out | 16m, 7 | Average | |||
Sat 29th Oct 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Black Hole Heart | 23m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Jun 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Little Sheep | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 16th Apr 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.10- 5.10a | ★★ Owl Eyes | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 16th Apr 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Snake Skin Thief
1
| 25m, 9 | ||||
Sun 20th Mar 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Midlands | ||||||
5.10c 5.10b | ★★ Poker Night | 27m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Mar 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.7 5.6 | ★ Easy peazy | 12m, 6 | Average | |||
Sun 20th Mar 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mammut's Hump | ||||||
5.10a | Rush | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Crimpy at the start. Go to the right at the top, or you will struggle to clip the anchor.
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Sat 19th Mar 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Here Comes Santa | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 19th Mar 2016 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.9 5.10a | ★★ Happy Feet | 16m, 7 | ||||
5.8 5.9 | ★★ Death From Above | 21m, 8 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Banana | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Short, slightly overhanging, with a couple of long reaches.
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Sun 29th Nov 2015 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Crazy Corners | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Shaken | 25m, 11 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Inflammable | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 17th Apr 2017 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.11d 5.12a | ★★★ My Pain For Your Pleasure | 24m, 12 | ★★ Very Good |
Showing all 91 ascents.