Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West Cul de Chien Red circuit TD+ (n°4) | ||||||
6A | ★★ Coquetterie | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5C 4C | ★★ Libre Service | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5C 5B | ★★ Jeu de Quilles | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6A | ★★ Vol à Vue | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Exposed
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5B | ★★ Navigation | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West Cul de Chien Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Le Toit du Cul de Chien | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West 91.1 Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Le Flipper (assis droite) | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West 91.1 Red circuit TD (nº 1) | ||||||
6B | ★★★ Le Flipper | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5C 5A | ★ La Sirène | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West 91.1 Orange circuit AD+ (nº 2) | ||||||
5A 4C | ★★ Le Tapinambour | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West 91.1 Yellow circuit PD+ (nº 5) | ||||||
3A 2C | ★★ La côte d'or | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West 91.1 Orange circuit AD+ (nº 2) | ||||||
4A 3A | ★ La Carpette | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Orange circuit (nº 1) | ||||||
3B | ★ Le Diedre Pourri | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Off circuit boulder | ||||||
7C+ | ★★ Le Toit aux Grattons (rallongé) | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Should go down next time.
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7C | ★★★ Le Toit aux Grattons (assis) 7c | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really my style. Second go!
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Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Red circuit (nº 2) | ||||||
7A | ★★ Le Toits aux Grattons de Maincourt | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Magical heel hook makes this doable.
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Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Off circuit boulder | ||||||
7A+ | ★★ La Trav' (retour-aller) | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Blue circuit (nº 4) | ||||||
5A | ★★ La Phalene | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4C | ★ Le Myriophylle | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Yellow circuit (n° 5) | ||||||
3C | ★ Voyage sur le Rempart | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Orange circuit (nº 1) | ||||||
4A | L'Oeil de Droite | Average | ||||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Red circuit (nº 2) | ||||||
7A | ★★ Le Toits aux Grattons de Maincourt | ★ Good | ||||
Couldn’t start
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Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Off circuit boulder | ||||||
7A | ★★ La Trav' | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Red circuit (nº 2) | ||||||
6A 5C | ★ La Longitudinale | ★ Good | ||||
6B | ★ La Chicane | ★ Good | ||||
Campus
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5A | La Banquette | Average | ||||
Didn’t understand this one
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5B | ★★ La Feuille Morte | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Orange circuit (nº 1) | ||||||
4B | ★ Le Surplomb Exterminateur | Average | ||||
4A | ★ La fissure droite du Rempart | ★ Good | ||||
4B | ★★ La Fissure Gauche du Rempart | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4 | ★ Le Marteau - 50 bis | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Yvelines & Essonne | ||||||
Dampierre Maincourt Blue circuit (nº 4) | ||||||
5A | ★ Le Grebe Castagneux | ★ Good | ||||
5C | ★★ La Daphnie | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6A+ 6A | ★ Bouquet de Roses | ★ Good | ||||
Hard
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Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Vallée de l'École Rocher du Duc Beauvais Nainville Black and white circuit ED+ (nº 9) | ||||||
7B | ★★★ Je Broie du Noir | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got very close today !
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7A | ★★★ Le Cliché N&B (prolongé) | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6C | ★★ Le Cliché N&B | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Vallée de l'École Rocher du Duc Beauvais Nainville Red circuit TD+ (nº 7) | ||||||
6A | ★★ Le Confit de Canard | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6A | ★★★ Le Bœuf Carotte | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5C | ★ L'Art Pariétal | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Vallée de l'École Rocher du Duc Beauvais Nainville Blue circuit D (nº 6) | ||||||
4C | Errare Humanum Est | Average | ||||
5A | ★★ La Bidouille | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pure slab. Razor sharp holds.
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Vallée de l'École Rocher du Duc Beauvais Nainville Black and white circuit ED+ (nº 9) | ||||||
7A | ★ Bagdad Café - Sit start | ★ Good | ||||
Crimps and smearing !
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6C+ | ★★★ Je Broie du Noir - Direct | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6B+ 6B | ★ M&M's | ★ Good | ||||
6B | ★★ Bagdad Café | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Vallée de l'École Rocher du Duc Beauvais Nainville Red circuit TD+ (nº 7) | ||||||
6A+ | Roc Autopsie | ★ Good | ||||
Nice traverse, a bit tricky to figure out the moves. Easy to dab !
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6A | ★ L'Has Been | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Vallée de l'École Rocher du Duc Beauvais Nainville Blue circuit D (nº 6) | ||||||
4A | ★ Le P'tit Coin | ★ Good | ||||
3C | ★ Ventre Dur | ★ Good | ||||
3A | ★★ La Chaufferette | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Le Val-Saint-Martin | ||||||
Secteur 1 | ||||||
5b |
★★ 15 / L'empreinte de tes pas
1
5a
2
5b
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Le Val-Saint-Martin | ||||||
Secteur 8 | ||||||
5c | ★ 105 / Entrailles | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Le Val-Saint-Martin | ||||||
Secteur 1 | ||||||
5c |
★★ 12 / Soleil voilé
1
5c
2
5b
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
5b | ★ 10 / Salut Boivin | ★ Good | ||||
5c 5b | 2 / Colas et Kalachnikoff | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Dusty
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Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
老怪 Demon Crag | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ 老怪 The Demon | 17m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Could do all the moves. Upper part needs time for optimizing the beta !
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Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
精灵谷 Jinglinggu 世外桃源 | ||||||
5.10b | ★ 包熟包甜 | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
5.12b 5.12a | ★★ 吃瓜群众 | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 26th Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
春天里 Springtime | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ 巫婆鼻子 | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pumpy if you don’t step on the ledge
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5.11a | ★ 青出于蓝 | 18m, 8 | Average | |||
Not worth it
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5.11d | ★★ 翻越小松糕 | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
From slab to blind reaches into overhangs. Not easy !
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5.10b | ★ take a break | 14m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wet slab. Yummy
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
老怪 Demon Crag | ||||||
5.13b 5.12d | ★★ 复活 | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good temperatures made this doable. Still had to find a new beta to bypass a wet crux hold... But at the end it worked out and I could send on the first redpoint attempt !
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Tue 24th Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
鸽壁 Pigeon Crag 雀巢 | ||||||
5.4 | ★★ 水下机器人 | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11d | ★★ 我很饿 | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite soft. Good climb
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Sat 21st Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
鸽壁 Pigeon Crag 老鸽壁 | ||||||
5.10a | ★ 水晶鞋 | 16m, 5 | Average | |||
Not so pleasant
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5.12b | ★★ 九龙穴 | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux is quite hard and friction dependent. The rest of the climb is great 5.11 moves
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Sat 21st Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
鸽壁 Pigeon Crag 新鸽壁 | ||||||
5.10b 5.10a/b | ★ 野酸枣的刺 | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good climb. Smaller holds than on the 10a.
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5.10a | ★ 机缘巧合 | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent 10a
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Sat 7th Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
小怪 Monster 小怪正面 Main Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ 千层饼4 (千层饼3) | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tried to go no hands. Failed at the top xD
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Sat 7th Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
老怪 Demon Crag | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ 飞跃疯人院 One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest | 13m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took me quite a few tries to figure out the beta. Great climb !
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Sat 7th Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
小怪 Monster 小怪正面 Main Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ 小怪 Monster | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard to read. The crux has a trad feeling to it. Top crux is pretty.
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Sat 7th Aug 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
小怪 Monster 二怪 | ||||||
5.12c 5.12b/c | ★★ 二怪 | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climb. But the bottom part was wet. The top feels friction dependent
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Sun 27th Jun 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
老怪 Demon Crag | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Power Line Right 电线(右) (The power line - Right side) | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V1 | FA ★★ The power line - Direct | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lots of trees and need careful pash positioning. But great moves.
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V3 V2 | ★★★ 北京姑娘 | ★ Good | ||||
Felt like v3 with this heat
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Sat 26th Jun 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
老怪 Demon Crag | ||||||
V3 | ★ Little prick 小P (Little prick) | ★ Good | ||||
2nd try
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5.13b 5.12d | ★★ 复活 | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Could do all the moves today
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5.12a | ★ 从天堂到地狱 From Heaven to Hell | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good slab. The lower section is a bit dangerous in case of fall.
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Sun 13th Jun 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
老怪 Demon Crag | ||||||
5.13b 5.12d | ★★ 复活 | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start straight up with a nasty v4~5 boulder into an ok rest. Then another hard boulder with a link I couldn’t do. And a few v3 moves to the top. Friction dependent, I would slip off the compression open holds of the crux. Need to come back on a cooler day and see if it works better !
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Sun 13th Jun 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
小怪 Monster 小怪正面 Main Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Mini肉塞 | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
If you dig chimneys, then go for it ! Very balancy start then body jamming all the way up. Don’t go left at the top, or you’ll blow it up like I did !
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5.10a | ★★ 志愿者 | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
A bit tricky at the start. Not given for the grade
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Sat 29th May 2021 - 房山 Fangshan District | ||||||
龙安 Long An | ||||||
5.13c 5.13b/c | ★★★ 旅行日记 | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A hold broke since last time I tried this. Making the crux harder and more dynamic. I’d say the crux felt around v7~v8, making the grade at least around 13c now. Would be good to have others to confirm the upgrade !
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Mon 3rd May 2021 - 房山 Fangshan District | ||||||
龙安 Long An | ||||||
5.13b 5.13b/c | ★★★ 旅行日记 | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Exposed, spicy, overhanging, thuggy. Awesome climb. Crux felt like v6~7. The rest is 5.11. Almost sent, should go done next time !
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5.11a | ★ 我恨午餐 | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warm up. No hard single move. Feels similar grade or even easier than the one to the left.
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Sat 17th Apr 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
精灵谷 Jinglinggu 世外桃源 | ||||||
5.12d | ★★ 虫洞 | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fell at the start. Got back on and sent second go. Bouldery easy to read crux, then easy to the top.
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5.12a | ★★★ 红太阳 | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second go. Beautiful crux sequence. Felt quite hard for the grade, compared to other 12a in Baihe.
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5.10c 5.10c/d | ★★ 牛舌饼 | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good warm up. But a bit awkward moves.
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - 房山 Fangshan District | ||||||
龙安 Long An | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Yellow Gold | 23m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 goes. Excellent climb. No single move harder than v3. I highly recommend it for a first 13a.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ 别动我的宝贝 | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not given at the grade. Deserves a small upgrade
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Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
秘密花园 Secret Garden | ||||||
5.10a | ★ 左秋千 Left Swing | 10m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Really don’t bother
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5.12a 5.12c | ★★★ r14/海阔天空 (r14) | 13m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent climb
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5.11d | ★★ 渔舟唱晚 | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Soft. Not very pleasant.
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5.9 | ★★ 防蚊水 Bug Spray | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ r7 | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
Sun 28th Mar 2021 - 房山 Fangshan District | ||||||
龙安 Long An | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Night Watch | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second go. Nice definite crux, probably v3. Then you need to keep your focus on easier moves all the way up.
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5.12d | ★★ 无缝连接 Seamless Connection | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second go. The lower crux felt like v5-ish. Hard left hand lock-off. One more easier crux higher up. The rest of the climb is quite chill.
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5.11a | ★★ 鸭咩爹 | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Went the wrong way at the crux. Excellent climb that gets easier as you get higher.
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5.10b | ★ 龙安#13 | 14m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
Weird and hard on the first few moves. Then easy to the top.
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