Ascents: Ascents as trad by JAndrews having Distinct route

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Crag	Quality	Date
	8	★ Nursery	Trad 10m	Mount Keira		Sun 15th Sep 2019
	8	★★ Diapason 1 7 20m Trad Guiding for aaa 2 6 25m Second 3 8 10m Trad	Trad 55m	Arapiles	★ Good	Wed 6th Sep 2023
	8 10	★ Orpheus	Trad 150m	Mt Tibrogargan	★ Good	Mon 4th May 2020
Nice climb. P2 was the highlight. P3-5 is a little run out in places. Top of P3 is a slanting dirt ledge, slanting up to the left. Follow this to get below BO chimney for the belay. This is as per the description, but the topo diagram will have you going straight up. For P4 I went left to keep out of the scrub in the Prometheus I chimney. It was more run out and harder then it looked. Check all holds for P3&4 before cranking on them. From Cave 4 it is a simple traverse to Cave 3 and the top of Zeitgiest and then join the caves route to head down.
	8	★★ Crack of Dawn	Trad 15m	Orroral area	★★ Very Good	Sun 6th Jan 2019
	8	★ Walk The Line	Trad 20m	Mt Ngungun	★ Good	Sun 15th Mar 2020
	8	Satisfaction	Trad 30m	Frog Buttress		Sat 21st Aug 2021
We climbed it as per the book, but it seems to be different in The Crag. Probably better to follow route described in the The Crag. The step bush walk/climb out to the right is not recommended.
	8	Prometheus II	Trad 43m	Mt Tibrogargan		Sat 27th Jun 2020
At grade 8 this is a sand bag. Should have known considering the FA was 1956! First pitch is cool, at least to the top of the buttress. After the top of the buttress you traverse right for about 10 meters and climb up broken rock into a gully. You will see the crack in the centre of the gully that the book suggests is an 18 for a possible second pitch. I was able to put in some good gear here to make an anchor for a belay at the base of the crack in the gully. I’d recommend you use radios to communicate with your second, there is no way to hear someone otherwise. The other option is to belay at the top of the buttress. Pitch 2 is where there are issues. As per the book, I traversed left and after one large cam placement just out from the belay, found no gear, crumbly rock and thin holds. You can see some possibilities as you go out but there are very committing blanks in between. I scratched around for a while, got about 10-15 metres into it then tried to go up but decided after losing confidence to return to the belay. I was also concerned that I would not be able to protect my second adequately on this traverse even if I did find a way over, so I retreated. But all is not lost, there are several ways out of this position, which does not involve a hairy unprotected climb. To the right of the gully is a DDB and a line of bolts that I think is pitch 8 of the Ross Miller Route (16). Clearly harder than 8 but at least it is well bolted. This takes you to a DDB just below Cave 5. Alternately you could abseil in 6 pitches down the Ross Miller Route – check the book for details. I’d be keen to find out if anyone has climbed Prometheus 2 and found it to be a grade 8.

At grade 8 this is a sand bag. Should have known considering the FA was 1956! First pitch is cool, at least to the top of the buttress. After the top of the buttress you traverse right for about 10 meters and climb up broken rock into a gully. You will see the crack in the centre of the gully that the book suggests is an 18 for a possible second pitch. I was able to put in some good gear here to make an anchor for a belay at the base of the crack in the gully. I’d recommend you use radios to communicate with your second, there is no way to hear someone otherwise. The other option is to belay at the top of the buttress.

Pitch 2 is where there are issues. As per the book, I traversed left and after one large cam placement just out from the belay, found no gear, crumbly rock and thin holds. You can see some possibilities as you go out but there are very committing blanks in between. I scratched around for a while, got about 10-15 metres into it then tried to go up but decided after losing confidence to return to the belay. I was also concerned that I would not be able to protect my second adequately on this traverse even if I did find a way over, so I retreated.

But all is not lost, there are several ways out of this position, which does not involve a hairy unprotected climb. To the right of the gully is a DDB and a line of bolts that I think is pitch 8 of the Ross Miller Route (16). Clearly harder than 8 but at least it is well bolted. This takes you to a DDB just below Cave 5. Alternately you could abseil in 6 pitches down the Ross Miller Route – check the book for details.

I’d be keen to find out if anyone has climbed Prometheus 2 and found it to be a grade 8.

Ascents as trad by JAndrews having Distinct route

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