#1. Bit stiff for a warmup, but Jamie decided he wanted the extra challenge instead of warming up on Smoking El Bum Waddos, a 5.9 G. He cruised it pretty easily. First attempt: put in two pieces and then reset to start over. Second attempt: ran up it clean.
Then I fought the crack for a while, decked a couple times at the start (because being NS, the crux was getting off the ground, as usual!) and eventually made my way up. Gave up trying to jam the crack midway, and since I was on safely protected TR, opted to layback the middle section, only flailing and falling a handful of times.
Karla went up about half way and decided the battle wasn't worth the effort as she didn't want to be pumped for the rest of the day. WISE MOVE, as my horrible performance on Sleeper would later demonstrate.
Jamie then pulled the rope, ran back up the route plugging less gear, and completed it with what looked like very little effort. Delightful to watch & learn from.
Will have to try this again when I'm fresh, rested, and not thinking about dead family members.
#2. Seconded. Scarytraverse, as like last time. But past the scary bottom bits, it's a lovely climb above. Gaston'd the crack to get thru that section, where a layback might have also worked (Will's beta was very different). He plugged a couple cams, but guidebook says you only need one. Definitely needed a rest/take before figuring out the crack sequence.
#4 (partial). Only did the first half of this on TR (from the Two Eggs anchor) to scout it as a trad line and see where the anchor was off to the right. Seems a pretty sketchy route to protect but could just be my relative newbness at trad. Instead of continuing to the right and anchors, left the 10a and finished up on the Two Eggs anchor.
- with
Jamie S, Karla K
Then I fought the crack for a while, decked a couple times at the start (because being NS, the crux was getting off the ground, as usual!) and eventually made my way up. Gave up trying to jam the crack midway, and since I was on safely protected TR, opted to layback the middle section, only flailing and falling a handful of times.
Karla went up about half way and decided the battle wasn't worth the effort as she didn't want to be pumped for the rest of the day. WISE MOVE, as my horrible performance on Sleeper would later demonstrate.
Jamie then pulled the rope, ran back up the route plugging less gear, and completed it with what looked like very little effort. Delightful to watch & learn from.
Will have to try this again when I'm fresh, rested, and not thinking about dead family members.