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Routes as sport in The Pharos and Surrounds

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Pharos Uncle Charlie
33 Punks Addiction

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023.

Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym.

FA: David Jones

Sport 25m, 9
33 Somalia

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012

Sport
Hard Awesome Looking Project

Looks bloody desperate.

SportProject 17m, 4
24 Disbarred

Four bolts on the wall right of Spasm. Don't bridge at the start but do bridge the finish.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Rob Oliver, 2007

Sport 15m, 4
The Pharos Back Wall
24 Raptures of the Steep

Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin and two bolts but has now been rebolted. Steep thuggery to awkward topout. Now has 4RBs and a DRB lower off.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991

Sport 9m, 4
24 A Bum Full Of Fists

Originally trad, and originally started up the wide groove just left of Braindrops. When the route was sent into Argus the route name was rejected and thus never recorded. The bolts, lower-off, and direct start were added by Geoff Little in 2018.

From the ledge 12m up Lamplighter, 4m left of Braindrops. Up shallow right-facing corner past RB (20) to ledge. There's a stick clip on the ledge to clip the next bolt safely (please leave the stick there), then pull through roof seam and continue up wall past three more rings to a lower off (17m to ledge, 25m to ground).

FA: Geoff Little & Tony Dignan, 1979

Sport 17m, 5
28 Slopin' Sleazin'

Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove 10m R of Lamplighter past 4 ringbolts to a DRB anchor. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at Arapiles.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

Sport 15m, 4
The Pharos South Face
27 Mind Arthritis

An outstanding climb taking the major line on the South Face. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt. A small cam can be placed in the top runout.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

Sport 25m, 5
Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
22 Clockwork Angels

Start on low prow of rock 1m right of 'Act In Haste'.

Gambol upward to the low roof (possible low cam if desired), and clip the first bolt. From the second bolt, a blind move to the right, around the arête (for a grade 21 move right again and up 'Is It About A Bicycle?'), then head straight up with a foot on either side to clip third bolt and up to finish.

FFA: Robert Mudie, 5 Mar 2017

Sport 12m, 3

Showing all 9 routes.

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