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Historic Wells

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 9
  • Ascents: 2,349
  • Aka: The Land of The Giants

Seasonality

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Description

A great little area 5 mins from Bardens. Also known as Land of the Giants.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

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Approach

Either access by following the base of the cliffline for another few minutes from Bardens proper, or slightly more directly down a gully with rungs and hand lines. For the latter, the descent trail starts at (-33.5594655, 150.2240752), accessed via Coxs Rd (walking track) from Bardens Lookout, New York or Historic Wells parking areas. Please use existing parking areas.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

Leftmost of the 3 slabs before BtB

FA: M Warren, 2011

Right of TCtFB.

FA: S Puchala, 2011

Rightmost of the slabs. Shares an anchor with Back to Back. Hard moves to gain upper slab if short

FA: Roslin Forrest, 2011

Great beginners route.

Start: Easy corner to lower off.

FA: R.Young & S.Morton, 1985

On the left hand end of the 'Nowra' looking wall.

Start: Do everthing you can to avoid climbing the corner (Back to Back)!

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2000

A nice looking line. Quite fun.

FA: J.Jackson, 2011

Start: 1m right.

FA: E Rutherford, 2009

FA: S Puchala, 2011

Start: Opposite the tree. Features the hugest jug on the wall.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1984

Start under rooflet, marked '25' in chalk.

FA: E Rutherford, 2009

Squeezed in on the prow on the far right side of the wall. Marked '26' in chalk.

Warning Rock: There are cracks in the block holding the 1st bolt. Best to clip stick the second.

Lefthand route on short grey wall before the chimney. Climb at undercut orange rock. Take care with the rock.

FA: Jack Taylor & Damien Taylor, 2012

Righthand route on short grey wall. Take care with the rock.

FA: Jack Taylor & Damien Taylor, 2012

Between a project on the prow, and All the Madmen.

FA: S Meng, 2013

Originally graded 24, but clearly something has snapped off as it's at least 26 now. Bolted arete 1m left of Casper's corner. Starts up the short arete to ledge. Scary clip of next bolt, then up face to dyno move to roof??!! Hard move left above roof then easy crimpy face to cracked bulge up high. Has repelled some serious contenders.

FA: R.Young, 1998

50m R of Tree Beard. Big orange corner, wall, roof and thin wall above. Trad only required in the first corner section - the rest is rings.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

Great litle route with a seemingly hard to read crux.

Start: 5m right of 'Casper'.

FA: j Smoothy, 2011

Blunt arete 5m right of Shebang. Arete, corner, bulge and slab!

FA: M Warren, 2012

Great orange rock, and still climbs very nicely despite a couple of broken holds. Not runout, if you stick clip the 1st bolt, and clip a bolt from the route to the left (60+ cm) to get the 3rd bolt safely clipped.

Start 2m left of the arete.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

15m R Q. Thin. Start on right hand side, at FHs, traverse left, crossing the ringbolted line of CCatMG. Then up, right of the arete with fingery, strenuous climbing up the wall above. A tad chossy in parts but worthwhile. Lower off.

FA: John Smoothy, Glenn Short & Giles Bradbury, 2011

Route directly up the middle of the wall on rings. Fixed hanger route starts on the right and traverses across.

FA: S Puchala, 2011

Easy corner passing bushes to the top.

FA: M Warren, 2011

Old style slabbing with a million ring bolts. Pull gently on the pedestal and leave the goat alone.

Start: Middle of grey slab 3m right of the corner.

FA: Jacindie Jackson, 2011

Up on blocks, through slab and up to bolt. Then traverse right crossing OO to lower-off.

Start: On the Grey wall left of OO. 2 pitches. Details unknown for this climb...?

  1. 10m (17)

  2. 15m (6) Up grey slab to more lower offs.

FA: W Rutherford, 2009

Corner crack, arete, crack to top.

Start: Corner with fixed hanger.

FA: R.young & A.Prehn, 1983

Start: 3m right of 'Odie Odour'

FA: Unknown, 2011

Orange corner, rooflet and flake. Single large bolt at the top.

FA: M.Warren, 2011

Start: 15m right, to the right of roof capped corner.

FA: Unknown, 2011

FA: P. Mort & G. Short, 2012

Start: Obvious 2m right of the project.

FA: J Smoothy, 2011

Probably the reason you came here. Should get heaps of ascents. At very end of the ledge. Up the middle of the undercut orange wall. Rebolted on rings 2011.

FA: M Stacey & L McManus, 1989

Up AK, and then move right above undercut. Up the thin wall just left of arete.

Access is via the lower level, just past A&K. Start in right-facing corner above track 5 m left of Monkey Grip.

FA: M. Franklin & A. Simson, 2013

Marked MG 25m R of A'n'K. Carrot and crack.

FA: Rod Young

40m R of MG at the L end of the blank looking wall.

Start approx. 25m right of Oliphant Wall, at the right-hand end of the vertical wall. A low crux then up to a tricky finish. Stick-clip first bolt

FA: M. Franklin, B. Simson & A. Simson, 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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