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Blue Gum Swamp Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 8

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Nick H Matthew Klein Simon Leo Toby Roediger

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Blue Gum Swamp 9 routes in Area

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.654409, 150.606169

description

Blue Gum Swamp runs along the river at the bottom of Shaws Ridge. The two trails connect and provide the local schools with their cross country trails. Multiple caves and areas exist on the wall between the two trails. Some areas are stand alone and easier to access from Blue Gum Swamp Trail. Others are in the main ridge line and are more easily accessed from Shaws Ridge Trail. As always with the lower mountains, beware the loose rock, and clean all routes thoroughly.

access issues

Be sensible.

inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

approach

Goto Winmalee shopping center, continue to the end of White Cross road and park at Blue Gum Swamp and Shaws Ridge parking lot. Head down main trail and take left towards Blue Gum Swamp. Many sectors along right hand side of trail.

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

history

Shaws ridge trail is believed to have been created sometime in the 1880s. It is likely that the area has been visited by climbers and the like for some time, although there are no documented climbs. The area began to see development by the local Winmalee crews around 2010. Efforts by the Matt and Bryson Klein and the young Winmalee bouldering set in 2012/13 have seen some first ascents getting made.

1.1. Cross Country 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

The Cross Country boulder is located directly on the side of the Blue Gum Swamp fire trail and there is a slabby wall about 8m behind off to the right side of the Swamp Cave.

approach

Obvious area directly on the side of the trail about six hundred meters past the gate on the Blue Gum Swamp trail.

descent notes

Obvious area, super easy access.

history

Saw some cleaning by ZPAB crew in 2010. No serious efforts until Matt Klein and company re-discovered and put in some excellent lines in 2012/13.

1.1.1. Cross Country Boulder 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

description

6 Meter boulder directly on trail.

approach

As for cross country sector.

history

First routes by Matt Klein and Crew.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cross slab

Follow seams on the left side of the boulder

V0 Boulder 4m
2 Cross Country

Straight up the middle. Bottom section very tricky slab until you get your feet right. Continue up using obvious edges to top. Superb.

FA: Matthew Klein, 2013

V2 Boulder 6m
3 Country Flake

Start as for Cross Flake and trend left to finish up Cross Country

FA: ?, 2013

V1 Boulder 6m
4 Cross flake

Flake to the left of Cross country

FA: ?, 2013

V1 Boulder

The following are located on the backside of the Cross Country boulder

6 Cross Fit

On the back of the boulder. Sit start the slopey rail and right to finish up the arete

FA: S.Isaacs, 2013

V2 Boulder
7 Cross Mantle

Start as for Cross Fit. Straight up and mantle.

FA: N.Howell, 2013

V1 Boulder
8 Cross Arete

Climb the arete to the left of Cross Slab. Staying on the left hand side

FA: N.Howell, 2013

V1 Boulder 4m

1.1.2. Cross Country Slabs 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Bouldering

description

The high slabs just up hill fromt he Cross Country boulder

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mono slab

The high slab with perfect mono to start. High top out on the rounded arete

BoulderProject 6m

1.2. Swamp Cave 1 route in Sector

Summary:

description

The steep overhang visible from the Blue Gum Swamp fire trail. Directly behind the Cross Country boulder.

approach

Obvious area directly on the side of the trail about six hundred meters past the gate on the Blue Gum Swamp trail.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sausage Fingers

Directly up hill from the Cross Country boulder. Sit start in the large slot. Climb the crimps straight up to top out.

FA: S.Isaacs & N.Howell, 2013

V2 Boulder 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
V0 Cross slab Boulder 4m 1.1.1. Cross Country Boulder
V1 Country Flake Boulder 6m 1.1.1. Cross Country Boulder
Cross Arete Boulder 4m 1.1.1. Cross Country Boulder
Cross Mantle Boulder 1.1.1. Cross Country Boulder
Cross flake Boulder 1.1.1. Cross Country Boulder
V2 Cross Country Boulder 6m 1.1.1. Cross Country Boulder
Cross Fit Boulder 1.1.1. Cross Country Boulder
Sausage Fingers Boulder 4m 1.2. Swamp Cave
? Mono slab BoulderProject 6m 1.1.2. Cross Country Slabs
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