Routes as sport in The Gorge - South Side

From the top of Home James, keep skirting around the gorge rim (rightward, looking out) and down a little to a ledge (immediately east from a short east-facing finger-crack - Finger Fantasy). A double bolt rap chain is located toward the east edge of this ledge. This the belay at the top of Body Heat and Sweet Nothings.

Abseil in 25m to hanging double bolt belay (bolt plates required). Up past 5 FHs.

The steep blunt arete to the R of Body Heat.

Start as Home James then go straight up slab instead of traversing right.Confusing move on the Headwall. 3 carrots, plus 2 (?) from the start of Home James.

Starts a couple of metres left of 'And don't spare the horses' (apparently the numbers given to these two routes in the text in the '06 guidebook should have been reversed).

Delicate slabbing up first 3 bolts, then move left to wide crack past 2 more bolt. Up left over crack to finish on slab past another bolt to belay at the base of Home James.

Starts from near the right side of the sizeable flat ledge directly below the base of Home James. Up the slab which sweeps up tending rightward, past 3BRs to a steepening (large-medium cam possible but not essential). Up and over this, past another BR, and up leftward to the belay at the base of Home James.

Classic hard slab climbing.

To get to the belay, a fixed 70m rope will make it from a gear belay to the right of Home James, or you can stop at the belay for P2. Aim down and right to a small bushy ledge.

A few metres left of Banana Blase is a line of 4 carrot bolts. could definitely get some additional small pro in. Access as per Banana Blase.

From the extreme right-hand end of the Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blase ledge reach up to clip the first BR, then head out right to reach the arete. Up the left side of this.

2m Left of Thin Wall Special Pineapple delight is an un-named line of bolts in a shallow crack. Access as per TWSPD.

Continue downhill from Mushroom Rock for perhaps another 70m to the end of a rocky promontory (not far from where the rough climbers' track - used to get down to Isotope Wall, Angel's buttress or the North Wall of the gorge - swings hard left, looking out, and into and through a narrow rock cleft). Abseil 35m over the route, angling slightly leftward/east to belay in the steep gully off the east side of the buttress. Engaging climbing up past 2 carrot bolts and around right onto the front of the buttress and a fixed hanger. Then slab up tending rightward past four more carrot bolts, a fixed hanger, then the arete past a final carrot bolt to belay.

A fixed hanger added (2023) between the first two of the three original carrots makes this very enjoyable.