Nodes in Trackside Boulders

Multiple boulders along walking track or a little up into bush.

Large boulder approx 150m ENE of Monolith Boulder.

Sit start out of the wombat hole on sharp edges (left one well left under fallen tree... if you start on the 2 close edges take a grade off). Hard moves up and slightly right via sharp crimps to exit left of nose goblin (you never make it as far right as the slope). The left hand lip of the boulder is also out.

Low sit start 1.5m left of NG jugs at poor left hand slimp and obvious flat cut edge for right (if starting with the incut crimp on right hand give yourself solid V4). Hard moves via sharp crimps to gain the LHV of NG. Jugs on standard start out for feet also.

Sit start as per Boogers. Up and left via crimps or direct via sloper/right hand side pull (easier). Good problem. Start hold is now quite loose (1/02/19)

SDS Straight up from the jug via sidepulls, gaston and left edge of the runnel. Rebrushed after 20 years when first developed.

Start as for Boogers but instead of moving right muscle up through runnel gastoning slopes either side.

Sit start matched on jug. Move right, then up laying off sloping rails and crimps. Start jug is now quite loose (1/02/19)

Sit start, traverse left under overhang on good holds, then up.

Sit start up over bulge using many jugs

Obvious boulder touching the track just past the access track to Snot Blok. The slightly overhung face away from the track offers a couple of pleasant juggy traverses.

Pleasant juggy right to left traverse starting where the boulder touches the track. Been done as a SDS, but better as a standing start. Top out at the left end of the face.

SDS Diagonally up left

Left to right traverse of the face. Again like Sidetracked has been done from a SDS but better started standing. Finish on the slabby trackside face.

SDS left end. Low traverse of the face keeping below the line marked for Sidetracked. Grade is variable depending on which holds are eliminated.

Block just off the path in front of Thin Face.

The obvious traverse from right to left continuing on from the SDS of Black Star Oblivion was also done but is not worth repeating.

SDS on the left side of the short concave face into the scoop.

SDS middle of the concave face to jugs

SDS right side of the concave face with crimps above to hidden incut in the slab above.

SDS as for Precious veering rightish via sidepulls and eliminating the hidden incut on that problem.

SDS Up veering slightly left

SDS as for Black Star Oblivion joining and finishing up Firestorm. Best parts of both problems.

SDS on opposing sidepulls

Warm-up lines on fun low boulder.

SDS on crimps up to a one-move-wonder to the high edge.

Sit start as for Sucker Punch (or alternately on edges left end of face) then traverse right to gain LH crimp and higher RH side pull below mini jug. Up to jug then slopey top out.

Eliminate. SDS on left end of the face. Traverse right on crimps while staying below the top (eliminating the top lip). Instead of RH side pull use low RH crimp and LH gaston to dyno directly to slope edge finish (eliminating intermediate holds in between the dyno and top). Surprisingly tricky.

Can also be done with the top lip at a similar (if not easier grade) but is not the way it was first ascended.

A variant to Airtime. A bigger jump to a better hold. Sit start right of Scar face using the same holds as Airtime (LH gaston, RH low crimp). Instead of dynoing to sloping lip, go big to the jug to the right (not the one below the top). Mantle finish.

Eliminate. Sit down start at Sucker Punch and traverse right to the start hands of Dynoholics Anonymous without using the line of incut jugs near the top. Move up into the start jug of Coke Nose and finish as per that climb.

Low sit start at right end of face on LH crimp layaway and RH crimp. Once your ass is off jack long to a slopey divot on the right up over the top. Might be easier if you have span. Might not.

Denial is everything. A warm up for the real thing. Start as for DA but pop to the intermediate jug (big high square cut) on Sucker Punch and up.

But how far? A warm up to be sure. Start as for DA and up by whatever means fair or foul.

Stand start matched on right most high recessed juggy incut.

Hug your way around the nose using the grooves over the top, topping out when your feet reach the recessed inverted dish.

Probably the best warm-up boulder around (after a brush and lots of traffic).

Stand start at near the decent tree, and traverse the entire boulder. About the same grade regardless of height above the ground.

Beautiful, easy face.

SDS with pockets, head up with some big moves between great holds.

Start as for NF but stay below overlap and continue right to join NR at LH start jug and finish as for this.

Stand start and climb the short face into the runnel.

SDS on two crimpy gastons, slap up to sloper, pinch and pocket, then continue up the arete.

Stand start with opposing gaston jugs in North Runnel. Establish feet and dyno to big jug up on NE arete. Finish easily up, down, wherever. If start with LH on the RH jug makes a nice V1 warm up.

Stand start with good holds, climb the wide arete.

Diabolical and largely worthless lowball eliminate climbing NW arete from very lowest possible start (LH finger slope, RH lowest layaway) Slopers, slimps and layaways trending slightly right to gain the obvious square cut finger jug edges at ~10feet. All pockets eliminated. May get easier as the holds clean up.

Stand start with good edges, climb the face.

Stand start below the so-called crack-like thingy.

Big boulder with multiple lines.

SDS the face on the southern side of the boulder (3m left of Sally the slapper). Low jug, side pull up L to a thin slot and top.

SDS sidepulls to start with shelf feet. Gaston, sidepull top.

Hollow positive hold at the start has been pulled off so problem has been upgraded after feedback.

Low sit start to Sally the slapper. Start on compression crimps, utilising toehooks to gain the underside of the bulge and finish up through the pocket over the lip and out.

Eliminates the arete of STS for hands, feet and hooks and also the big juggy blob at the top of the lower face (mostly so it doesn’t fall off and kill you). Sit start as for sally (or lower if you can do it without Arete). Hard first move to obvious sloper just inside the arete about a metre above the RH start hold then left to juggy horn. Move up past tree without using it (the tree, not the horn 🤦) to gain good holds on mossy upper arete and face to top out. Best not to fall off above tree. Actually climbs pretty well for contrived nonsense.

SDS with obvious jug (RH) and crimp (LH). Slap up and right to good holds around the arete.

Consensus suggests this is more like V3 so upgraded from the original V1.

Addendum (2024): Left hand crimp broke sometime 2022/23 and has become much better. Probably easier than before but still V3.

Probably about V3. Sit start on STS would get it to 4.

Stand start on the double pockets at the end of the boulder near Sally the Slapper. Traverse right and finish up the Twelfth Night. Crux is the move from about King John into the jugs of the Twelfth Night.

SDS Traverse left from Tempest to the arete and up.

If instead of finishing up, you finish down into the starting holds of sally the slapper, and controlledly end in a sit down finish it makes for a fun V3 or so.

SDS. side pulls to jugs

SDS. Move right and up from the starting holds of Tempest

SDS Direct start to Big John avoiding the large starting holds of Tempest. Instead use a gaston edge for the left hand and thin sidepull with thumb catch for the right. The move is about 12 inches but still tougher and more technical than the other 4s down here. V5.

Left hand on the Tempest side pull, right hand on the edge 1.5m to the left. Contort your way out of the bat-hang start, into King John and up.

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

Start with hands matched on obvious pinchy jug above the low layaway (on the nose, not the undercling/layaway 1.5m further left). Campusing out the jugs to exit is about V3/4. Quite fun alternative for when you've conceded defeat on the heinously steep start.

Standing start with hands on the lip. Originally graded V1 but a few crankers have failed to get up it in recent weeks! Could be that it’s hard to find a stylish way, could be that they are closet weaklings that finesse up much harder graded spirt routes or it could be it was a sandbag. Tough for V1 now tough for V2!

Hard sit start using undercling crimps and RH layaway. An eliminate without good layaway should be possible but pretty grunty. Differing opinions of which is easier, this or the measure sit.

Much ado Sit, reverse the Yumegiwa traverse and finish up Measure for Measure. Full value. PS... slopes and jugs around corner to right are out... should you feel inclined.

Stand start with hands on the lip. Keep slapping up on cool slopers. SDS adds difficulty and style.

Great! Technical more than hard. But not easy! RH slopers, LH Gaston edge. Tension climbing to gain slope lip of the stand.

SDS as per The Measure Sit for maximum value for money. Once at lip traverse to finish up Much Ado About Nothing.

Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill.

Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3.

The original way it was done

Not the Bards best work... SDS just to the right of BDSM starting on a sidepull with the right and BDSM starting crimp for the left. Up to the sidepull scoop for the left and straight up to the shelf above with the right.

Around right from the front face is a very short, over hung face capped by an uncleared hanging slab. Deceptive sit start on pinchy lay aways to gain slopes on lip (big jug up right is out) then get your mantle on. A Castle Hill (god’s own) mantle it is not!

One of a few boulders located below the circuit walking track. Its bulging downhill face offers a few short problems.

Well shaded under a thick canopy.

SDS good edge to start. Sidepulls above to jugs.

The bush closes in after dark. Powerful start off opposing razor blade Gaston’s left of S. Hard to gain lip independent of the big holds either side. Up tenuous scoop as for S. V4 or 5.

Nice problem. SDS Middle of the bulging downhill face via the large sidepull to gastons. Into the sloping scoop then top.

SDS just to the right of Sisyphus traversing left across the bulging face to finish up Tantalus

SDS right side of the downhill face to jugs

Squat bulging boulder in the trees above the track. Descent at the rear.

Sit start to PTYP using very low LH side pull about 18inches off the deck. Adds a grade.

Stand-start. Start holds are left slot crimp and right crimp in a double gaston. Move out left, match on the two higher crimps, then out to the jug on the right.

PTYP sit first moves to edges then traverse hard right at same level (not up to large lay away or jugs in the scoop of PTYP) via some tech thin moves to gain blunt arete. Up via slopey edges to gain right end of scoop and up. Someone’s done some brushing here recently... who knows if climbed. Can be climbed from a low stand on the blunt arete at about V4 and will have a very hard direct sit start.

Sit start on obvious low jug layaway immediately in front of wombat hole and roll up to layaways and mossy face above. Perhaps avoid at dusk.

Start as for OFOTWN. Match on slopey rail and traverse right along crimps and slimps just past the gutter. Top out on the blunt arete right of the gutter.

Obvious bulged prow/arete right end of boulder. Sit start on obvious low flake (gentle... it needs to be pinned). Tricksy feet to gain slopes then cool paste on edges and compression straight up the prow. A cooler harder variant will lip traverse right to gain the brilliant but easy hanging slab.

This ones a cracker. As per Ode low sit to gain RH layaway then tricky move or two right along lip of hung slab then up... easier, but not easy.

Surprisingly tricky mantle low ball. Sit start on slopey jug rail and mantle/press/ooze castle hill style via razors and left facing flakes.

A couple of Boulders located just above the Juggernaut boulder.

SDS left hand pinch, right hand very low undercling. Up the right side of the arete.

Powerful SDS from good edge for the right and choice of features for the left.

V5 as a standing start with hands around chest height - right on the undercling dish, left on the lower sidepull with thumb catch. V4 if starting from the higher sidepull.

Big protruding block on the right at about chest height is off route for both hands and feet.

Far left end of Roach boulder, SDS with good low hold for left, pinch undercling with pocket for right - slap up

SDS just right of 8 Ball, directly below shallow V groove, left hand on low sidepull, right on high crimp - up

The half traverse...SDS in middle of wall. RH on vertical sidepull, LH on good crimp jug. Up to slot, match and across left into and up 8 Ball...very cool

Open for business... The full traverse from right to left. SDS on Molly's big undercling, dropping down through start holds of Speedfreak, eliminating crimps on Toot, and finishing up 8 Ball.

SDS Left side of the arete

Start as for Charlie but traverse right on crimps to the good jug, then top out as for Roach.

SDS hollow undercling and face just right of the arete.

The Entry to gain the arete then left via the early crux of speedball to gain Toot and up as for that.

Sit start on the crimps of roach and low left gaston (more like V5 if both hands on Roach’s crimps) and head left via gaston and pinch (without using the rail on roach) to gain Jugs on arete and up.

SDS short overhung face starting on the 2 finger tooth for the right and crimp for the left. Straight to good dish and jug on the lip.

Small boulder with a clean downhill face located up right of the Addiction boulder

SDS Pocket for the left and crimps for the right. Pop up then lip traverse up right

Rising traverse. SDS from crimps finishing across right.