A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran benwiessner Wendy Eden Campbell Gome Rose Kinley Philip Armstrong Joe Goding Luen Warneke David Newell Paul Badenoch
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Table of contents
- 1.
North-West Mt Difficult Range
95 in Crag
- 1.1. Troopers Creek Cliff 5 in Cliff
- 1.2. Mt Bloody Impossible 2 in Cliff
-
1.3.
Mt Difficult Cliff 54 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Wind Cave 5 in Sector
- 1.3.2. Abseil Gully 7 in Sector
- 1.4. Epaminondas Buttress 16 in Cliff
- 1.5. Mt Difficult Summit 3 in Cliff
- 1.6. Sickle Wall 6 in Crag
- 1.7. Mawson Slab 2 in Cliff
- 1.8. Carter's Col 7 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. North-West Mt Difficult Range 95 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.013965, 142.439471
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
description
Home to some classics.
Useful Info: 45min walk in up a steep, well defined track.
access issues
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
approach
Just past Roses Gap rec centre, about 30mins off the highway
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
1.1. Troopers Creek Cliff 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
The large orange cliffs running east from Tilwinda Falls. Much of the rock is broken looking and quite steep. Natural lines are few and far between, and usually consist of rubbish rock.
This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA
approach
From the Troopers Creek campground follow the tourist track to Tilwinda Falls (this is not the same track as the regular Mt Difficult track). When the tourist track suddenly steepens and arrives at cliffs, cross the creek on the left and scramble up to the orange cliff-line. Walk along and up to the left (steeply) keeping as close as possible to the cliff base. Five minutes from the creek crossing you will reach the original Wayne Maher route. 15 minutes walk all up.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bowels 2
A bit loose or as Bangla would say "This is the worst route I have ever seconded." Midway betwen 'Spectre' and the right hand end of the cliff is a small descent gully. This route is 10m right of this. FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Watling & Rob Parker, 1990 | 15 R | 28m | |||
2 |
Spectre
One of the major lines of the cliff. Sustained climbing on excellent rock. Starts 400m left of the creek at good looking clean corner.
FA: Wayne Maher & Peter Cunningham (alt leads), 1990 | 21 | 48m, 2, 1 | |||
3 |
Gibbon's Run
Approximately 40m left of Spectre is a left-ward rising ramp.
FA: Mike Wust & Kevin Lindorff (alternate leads), 1999 | 14 | 65m, 2 | |||
4 |
★★ Borderland
From the creek follow the cliff along past a cave (20 minutes) and the first major descent gully (10 minutes) to a prominent left curving corner and roof line. This can (apparently) be seen from the camp site.
FA: Derek Vissor, Wayne Maher (alt leads), Ann Scholes, Peter Cunningham, Andrew Webb & Glen Donohue, 1989 | 18 | 50m, 2 | |||
5 |
Nail Away
The MAJOR line 8m left of 'Spectre'. Incomplete aid scarefest (of choss) and not recommended. Full aid rack required including hooks, pitons - anything goes.
FA: Neil Monteith (aid solo), 2008 | 14 M6 X | 32m, 2, 1 |
1.2. Mt Bloody Impossible 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This cliff sits on the edge of the CV14 SPA… but the long walk and lack of routes should also keep climbers away.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gangrene | 17 | 110m | |||
2 | Cameron's Climb | 13 | 100m |
1.3. Mt Difficult Cliff 54 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
description
Some excellent trad climbing but there's unfortunately a lot of choss among the good stuff. As the cliff is reached near it's right-hand side, climbs have been organised from right-to-left.
access issues
This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA, although it is on the to be reviewed list.
approach
The Troopers Creek campsite is permanently closed but the climbing access still starts from this site.
You can park at a turnout opposite the old Troopers Creek Campsite. Cars parked at the Troopers Creek site have had their windows smashed, contents stolen, and tyres slashed (Nov 2018). Perhaps this could be avoided if you ensure your car looks like it has nothing worth stealing inside?
The start of the walking track isn't obvious, but it can be found towards the top right area of the cleared area that was used for camping. Once you reach the first wooden steps it's easy to follow, so long as you anticipate a lot of traversing (rather than heading straight up to the cliff): if you find yourself bush bashing then you've gone too direct! The track goes past the 'Wind Cave' boulder then more steeply to reach the cliff just left of 'Nostalgia'
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 |
★ Dead Calm
Follow the main track for about 5-600m past 'Gale Force' until about 30-50 metres past the creek. Takes left-hand side of prominent. 5 FH and1ring (sticking way out), lead right through steep moves until you reach the easier face above (lots of natural pro). DBB/rings lower off Approx 25m to ground. FA: Joe Goding & Graham Holden, 2001 | 21 | 30m | |||||
3 |
Top Access
Hard to see why anyone would bother. Start at rap anchor of 'He who walks through Shallow Water'. Move left about 6-8 metres along large ledge to obvious crack around 2-3m from far LH end. up this with difficulty to very easy ground above. | 18 | 30m | |||||
4 |
★★ Gale Force
Start: Shares the start of 'He who walks through shallow water' until #9 nut, then traverses left past steep thin moves past 3rd FH into scoop. Up and left out of this to easier ground and DBB. Move right on large ledge to Abseil station. Not as sustained as 'He who walks through shallow water' FA: Josef Goding & Simon Pateman, 2001 | 21 | 16m | |||||
5 |
★ He Who Walks Through Shallow Water
Good fun steep wall climbing. Start: Start approximately 200m left of Strutting Through The Stratosphere and about 150m left of the big roof that marks the aid route Hard Day's Night at an attractive looking orange & black wall above a white arrow on the walking track. FA: Josef Goding & Simon Pateman, 2001 | 21 | 15m | |||||
6 |
Plead for Me
Remarkably overhung off-width chimney a few metres left of 'Birthday Suit' FA: Charles Creese & Peter Watling, 1987 | 18 | 15m | |||||
7 | Birthday Suit | 16 | 70m | |||||
8 | Feline Variant Finish | 10 | ||||||
9 |
Feline
The right-facing corner 18 metres left of 'The Hard Days Night'. | 15 | 46m | |||||
10 |
★ Bolt Out of the Blue
10m left of HDN, not the world's best route but a filler at the end of the day. A few bolts, rps and big cam. | 21 | 27m | |||||
11 |
The Hard Days Night
Distinctive crack aided through bulges. FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alen Glenhill, 1970 | 11 M4 | 76m, 2 | |||||
12 | ★ Entrée | 9 | 61m | |||||
13 | Pilgrims Progress | 11 | 60m | |||||
14 |
★ Entrée Direct Start
Initialled flaring crack starting from terrace above the track. Rap off. | 22 | 18m | |||||
15 |
Ravenous Intent
Start immediately right of 'Entree Direct Start', marked with a square 2m up. use tree to gain face via tricky move then up wall above FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham (in winiter), 1983 | 21 | 20m | |||||
16 |
★ Whipped Cream
Good easy fun. At the end of orange overhanging wall, 6m above track and 9m right of Entree DS. Up wall then right into corner. | 10 | 74m | |||||
17 | Whipped Cream Direct Start | 12 | ||||||
18 |
Deception Gully
Worthless gully 6 metres left of 'Vee Line'. | 8 | 64m | |||||
19 |
★★ Vee Line
A definite V corner 30m left of Ke Bab. Great, sustained first pitch followed by experiential squeeze through big roof over chockstones. With any luck, there'll be something to rap off or meander to the top. | 17 | 73m | |||||
20 |
★★ Strutting Through the Stratosphere
Up wall on P1 to gorgeous, featured arete on P2. The second pitch has historically been given grade 22: this was an error and it turns out that it's actually about grade 17.
Because P2 is easier (and more memorable) than P1, if you'd rather do two pitches at a more similar grade and style, a good option is to start up Procrastination for a few metres before doing a rising traverse to the left, at about grade 19. This will land you at the double carrot belay at the end of P1. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1990 | 22 | 75m, 3 | |||||
21 |
★★ Procrastination
Obvious crack 5m left of Ke Bab. Varied and sustained climbing. A 5-inch cam is useful at the technical crux even though it's not an off-width move and multiple 4-inch cams are handy on the wide flake. 40 metre abseil from top of flake. Best to lower the ropes inside the crack and start the abseil down the crack - throwing the ropes over the outside of the flake risks them catching on the opposite buttress and lands you in the middle of the unpleasant vegetation at the foot of the gully | 18 | 82m | |||||
22 |
★ Aerospace
Nice looking wall with three bolts and sling anchor (which will inevitably need replacing). The start of this route has shed many holds, and the first two carrots have been overdriven such that getting a bolt plate onto them is a real crux. | 24 | 87m, 3 | |||||
23 |
Ke Bab
Deep, dark and dank cleft to get lost in 40m left of Kabana | 10 | 73m | |||||
24 | Ke Bab Alternate First Pitch | 6 | 18m | |||||
25 | ★★ Dreaming Arete | 14 | 82m | |||||
26 | ★★ Dreaming Arete Direct | 14 | 67m | |||||
27 | Guacamole | 17 | 70m | |||||
28 |
★ Kabana
Easy slab left of mossy corner (Kabana direct) then back into line. | 11 | 100m | |||||
29 | Kabana Variant | 13 | 45m | |||||
30 |
Kabana Direct Start
Mossy corner 16m left of B. | 16 | 15m | |||||
31 | Hornet | 17 | 45m | |||||
32 |
★ Beeline
Deep flaring crack 15m left of QB | 12 | 91m | |||||
33 |
Sweet Thing
Climbs fragile face between Beeline and Bumble Variant. Climb wall almost anywhere until roof, which is taken at the obvious notch. Continue directly past blank bit to a good ledge. Abseil off horn. FA: James Falla, Debbie Sweet & Jon Bassindale, 1999 | 14 | 45m | |||||
34 |
Some Choss Heap
Loose and poorly protected route up the proud arête right of Queen Bee. Pitches of 25m, 25m 15m. Start up Guillotine then move left onto the face. Back right at around 25 to 30m to belay in corner. Horizontally left onto arête proper, straight up to ledge. Bail here to avoid further complications. Traverse down and across to major ledge, rap from tree on Queen Bee. FA: Joe Goding & Steve Hamilton (alt), 2002 | 15 | 65m, 3 | |||||
35 |
★ The Bumble Variant
Pleasant climbing on sound rock. Starts at faint initials BV, about 8m right of Beeline and 7m left of Queen Bee.
FA: Chris Baxter & Alan Gledhill, 1970 | 10 | 50m | |||||
36 |
★★ Queen Bee
An excellent climb that gets progressively harder. It starts at the overhung flake 6m left of SB.
FA: Michael Stone & Geoff Gledhill (alts), 1970 | 17 | 81m, 4 | |||||
37 |
Squeeze Box
Corner on other side of buttress, about 18 metres left of 'Guillotine'. Initialled. | 13 | 100m | |||||
38 |
Guillotine
Cliff-splitting chimney on left side of grey wall. about 30 metres left of where the track hits the cliff. FA: Michael Stone & Geoff Gledhill, 1970 | 13 | 110m | |||||
39 |
★ Neck Romancer
Be warned that pitch 2 has a very long (25m) runout and a dodgy piton runner has to be placed on lead on the crux pitch. Start at the left of two flake-lines about 15 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.
FA: Nicky Sunderland (1, 4), Kevin Lindorff (2, 3), Mike Wust & David Jurke, 1990 FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990 | 21 | 110m, 4 | |||||
40 |
★★ Nostalgia / Up, Up and Away
First pitch is excellent and many parties abseil from that point. The route 'Up, Up and Away' was essentially a repeat of this climb. Start: 10 metres above ground-level where the track first meets the cliff.
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Andrew Moore, 1990 | 18 | 84m, 3 | |||||
41 |
Mission to Mars Variant (1a)
Esay line 5 metres left of 1st pitch to base of shallow corner. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1995 | 11 | 12m | |||||
42 |
★★ Mission to Mars
Every pitch is good, with the third being particularly intimidating. Takes the slab and flakes 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff, 5 metres left of 'Abseil Gully'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1993 | 22 | 80m, 3 | |||||
43 |
Mission to Mars Variant (1b)
Start as for 'Rollmop' in 'Abseil Gully' and up the slab just right of the wide crack for 5 metres or so then out left onto the wall left of 'Rollmop' and up the line to the horizontal fault of the first belay of 'Mission To Mars'. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1993 | 15 | 30m | |||||
|
1.3.1. Wind Cave 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Trad climbing
description
Large boulder about 5 minutes along the track from Troopers Creek camping area. One climb and some bouldering on lovely rock. Limited but good for playing on in the evening.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pumping Station
Jump for a jug and continue up steep wall. Start: Start approximately 10 metres along the left-hand side of the boulder. FA: Simon Mentz & Stephen Hamilton, 1989 | 22 | 10m | |||
2 |
Easy Arete
Right arete of cave with sit-start | V0 | ||||
3 |
Geelong Keys
Reverse lowest break from right to join 'Godel Traverse' and continue left. Optional extra : go back along 'Godel Traverse'. | V2 | ||||
4 |
Godel Traverse
Up and right to break, right along break, up to next break, up to next break, right to gully. Start: Start at 'Easy Arete' | V1 | ||||
5 |
Fermat's Last Theorem
Sit-start a metre or two right of "Pumping Station". Slopes, right to jug, up to shallow twin pockets, right to arete. | V5 |
1.3.2. Abseil Gully 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
The gully just right of where the track meets the cliff. The short routes in the gully itself are descended by abseil from the tree.
Routes are described left-to right.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hors D'Oeuvres | 9 | 18m | |||
2 | Robbo's Route | 16 | 16m | |||
3 | Rollmop | 9 | 18m | |||
4 | Nico | 15 | 18m | |||
5 | Hey Lou | 10 | 25m | |||
6 | ★★ Kintan Alley | 12 | 65m | |||
7 | Ethic Cleansing | 21 | 15m |
1.4. Epaminondas Buttress 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Sound rock, good climbing and inspiring positions give this buttress one of the best collections of long middle grade classics in the 'Grampians'.
This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA, although it is on the to be reviewed list.
approach
About 200m to the right of the main wall. Meander across from where the track hits the main Mt Difficult wall.
descent notes
To descend from 'Sword in the Stone' and the routes to its right head back from the cliff edge then trend left heading for a gully. Although there are numerous cairns, vegetation has taken over this once well trod path.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Copacabana
On the L side of the cliff is a small but prominent buttress. The small hanging corner and roof at the front of this buttress. Up corner to roof [amazing pockets in LH wall]. Step R to arete and up to next roof. Step R, pull though roof and then boldly up on rounded holds to top. Scramble of L from back of buttress. FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1994 | 18 R | 35m | |||||
2 |
Imagination
The top pitch is the main attraction. The final hand traverse is a beauty. Start: On the R side of the 'Copacabana' buttress about 2m up from a yellow square.
FA: James McIntosh & Mike Wust [alts], 1992 | 17 | 110m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★ Brandywine
This description is a slight variation on the original route, but done this way the second pitch is longer and even better. Start: Brandywine, Withywindle and Inner Votion are all in a small amphitheatre up R of Imagination [see photo above]. Scramble up immediately R of Imagination staying on the L until level with a bushy ledge. At the far RH side of the bushy ledge is a steep chimney [Brandywine]. Some people may wish to rope up for this this approach. From the top of these climbs [and Imagination] it is possible to scramble down to the L, eventually descending underneath the big recent rockfall to reach the descent track in the gully. The steep corner chimney at the RH end of the ledge.
FA: Rod Young & Philip Armstrong [alts], 1976 | 14 | 50m, 2 | |||||
4 |
Inner Votion
The start of the traverse on the second pitch is a bit wild. Originally graded 13, I don't know what we were thinking. Some bits of this have been swapped with 'Brandywine' to improve that climb. Start: At the chimney referred to in the access details [Brandywine]
FA: Philip Armstrong & Rod Young [alts], 1976 | 18 | 52m, 2 | |||||
5 |
Access Chimney
An alternative to scrambling up the gully. About 10m R of the access gully for 'Brandywine' is a chimney. Up this then broken ground above. Easier than it looks. | 10 | 20m | |||||
6 |
Withywindle
The filthy top pitch is best avoided by finishing up 'Brandywine' Start: Around the rib, 4m R of 'Brandywine'.
FA: Rod Young [solo], 1976 | 12 | 62m, 2 | |||||
7 |
Gobs'n'Bollocks
A worthless variant on existing routes with about 15m of new climbing, and that is dirty, vegetated and loose. You don't even want to know where it goes. | 13 | 70m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Sword in the Stone
A grand excursion through intimidating roofs. Start: The start is marked by a small square 15m left of 'Epaminondas'. With grade 17 traversing required on two pitches, the second climber needs to be every bit as confident and competent as the leader.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Mark Shelton, 1976 | 17 | 100m, 3 | |||||
9 |
★★ Epaminondas
Takes in some wonderful airy positions. The first pitch is excellent and the second and third pitches, though not in the same class, aren't bad. Start: Starts in a little bay in the middle of the wall (initialled).
FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest (alt), 1976 | 11 | 100m, 3 | |||||
10 |
Epaminondas Left Hand Variant
An interesting excursion which can be split into 2 pitches of around the same grade. Instead of traversing R at the start of P2 of Epaminondas head straight up the obvious crack through the overhang. Continue up and R to the thin R curving crack which joins Epaminondas at the chimney. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992 | 17 | 40m | |||||
11 |
★★ Pelopidas
Magnificent face climbing up buttress R of 'Epaminondas' that delivers more than appearances would suggest. Pitches one and two are both very good, although the first pitch is undoubtably the highlight. After these 2 pitches it is possible and preferable to move L and finish up 'Epaminondas'. [Pelopidas was the right hand man of the Theban General Epaminondas] Start: Scramble to ledge 5m up and R of 'Epaminondas'. At the left hand end of this ledge is a rounded flake.
FA: Melanie & James McIntosh [alts], 1991 | 18 | 110m, 4 | |||||
12 |
★★ Monkey Man
A classic middle grade adventure. A lot of people get lost on the top pitch of this route. This is odd as at the top of this buttress there are two pronounced corner lines. 'Rum Truffle' finishes up the R hand one and MM the L hand. That's all you really need to know. Both of these corners are R of a large bottomless chimney [MM variant finish]. The only tricky aspect is that MM accesses the LH corner via an easier crack on the arete a few meters R of the foot of the main LH corner rather than climbing directly into the line [see photo below]. Start: Drop down from 'Epaminondas' and head around to the next major buttress. Starts at the back of the scrubby bay between the 'Epaminondas' buttress and this next buttress [the 'Rum Truffle' Buttress].
FA: Steve Craddock, Andrew Moore & Greg Lovejoy [alts], 1989 | 14 | 90m, 3 | |||||
13 |
Monkey Man variant
Climbed numerous times by people lost looking for the top pitch of MM. This chimney is a prominent feature several meters L of the two corners of MM and RT. Written up at least once. Start: At top of Pitch 2 of MM move 3m R instead of 8m to belay below bottomless chimney. Up short steep wall to chimney. Up this. VCC Mt Difficult update has FA as Michael Giacometti, John Maher. 05.03 FA: Unknown, 2000 | 14 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★ The Squaw on the Hippopotamus
Exposed and sustained, a worthwhile outing. Some suspect rock low down. It is possible to do one long 45metre first pitch but you will need a lot of gear and two ropes to avoid bad rope drag. Start: The pronounced diagonal crack on the right wall of the 'Monkey Man' bay.
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Chris Baxter [alts], 2002 | 16 | 80m, 3 | |||||
15 |
★ Rum Truffle
Some quite good climbing, however the unprotected start to the fourth pitch rather detracts from the experience. Start: The front of the buttress R of the MM bay. Around R of TSOTH. Just R of a prominent pair of roofs low down on the front of the buttress.
FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews [var], 1975 | 14 | 97m, 5 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Coup De Grace
One of the plum pitches of the crag and a real corker of a line. Start: About 300m right of the 'Epaminondas Buttress' is a prominent, seductive face crack perched above a cracked slab. Fortunately, though the relentlessly overhanging crack is wide, there are holds aplenty.
FA: Chris Baxter & Rick White (alt), 1979 | 21 | 50m, 2 | |||||
|
1.5. Mt Difficult Summit 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA, although it is on the to be reviewed list.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Vertex | 13 | 55m | |||
2 | ★ Vortex | 17 | 55m | |||
3 | ★ Weird Dreams | 15 | 35m |
1.6. Sickle Wall 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
access issues
South of Mt Difficult - and outside the CV14 SPA
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Republican Debate
50m up the gully from Catch The Wind, below two left-leaning cracks, and just right of an undercut section.
FA: James McIntosh & Mick Jennings, 1998 | 16 | 65m, 4 | |||
2 |
★ Catch The Wind
If you skip the top pitch and scramble off left this turns into a really good grade 14. There is a large corner system on the left side of the main slab. This climb is to the left of this on an arete and starts on a terrace a little way up the descent gully.
FA: James McIntosh & Mike Wust (varied leads), 1994 | 18 | 100m, 4 | |||
3 |
Realm of the Poor
10m right of a large flake leaning against the slabby face.
FA: ross taylor & Rob Taylor, 1994 | 11 | 160m, 5 | |||
4 |
First Blood
The original description was written up six years after the climb was done, so is a tad vague. Head up diagonally left along a narrow ramp at the lip of the retaining wall of a sickle feature. Roughly follow the sickle feature up the walls (which are hard to protect) until it’s possible to move up right on a large vegetated ramp. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1982 | 20 | 120m | |||
5 |
Idylls of the Rich
150m right of the descent gully is a major line splitting a prow.
FA: ross taylor & Rob Taylor, 1994 | 15 | 110m, 3 | |||
6 |
Teddy Bear
Approximately 50m right of First Blood, left of a prominent arete, is a major corner high up on the cliff.
FA: James McIntosh & Melanie McIntosh, 1998 | 15 | 100m, 4 |
1.7. Mawson Slab 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This is the slab that forms the left side of the descent gully for Sickle Wall.
South of Mt Difficult - and outside the CV14 SPA
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Worst Journey In The World
At the left side of the slabs is a corner. Climb up a seam and then reach left to the bottom of the corner. Climb the corner for a few metres then move right to a face crack. Head up to the roof at the top of the slabs then move left on pockets through the roof. The abseil is 35m from a tree. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 1994 | 18 | 30m | |||
2 |
Titus Oates
Far left of The Worst Journey In The World and approximately 200m right of Coup De Grace (Epaminondas Buttress) is a recessed wall. The start is a thin left-facing corner that peters out approximately 15m up.
FA: James McIntosh & Mike Wust (alternate leads), 1994 | 16 | 65m, 2 |
1.8. Carter's Col 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This cliff is just South of Carter's Track (well South of Mt Difficult Cliff)
access issues
Cliff is outside the CV14 SPA
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The B. Desh Memorial Buttress
Near the centre of the crag, at it’s highest point, is a small pale slab approximately 7m above the ground. Climb up to below the hanging corner/overlap. (Crux) Climb up to, and up, the corner and over the bulge at the top of the slab. Continue up, heading slightly right, then up the right-facing corner at the top of the wall until an overhang is reached. Move left and then climb the arete to the top. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1993 | 12 | 40m | |||
2 |
Head Banger
Up wall 4 metres right of The B. Desh Memorial Buttress and immediately right of a substantial conifer. Pull through overhang two metres right of the pale slab at 7 metres, on BDMB, and up to distinctive left facing flake. Up right to climb right wall of BDMB’s final corner. Move right up ramp near the top to avoid a loose block. FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 2000 | 18 | ||||
3 |
Egg Shells
Approximately 100m right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is a large boulder. It has a thin diagonal crack and one end is shaped like an egg. “Iron cross” into the diagonal line then head up the diagonal crack for 6m to a horizontal break. Hand traverse left to a stance and then follow the thin seams up the slab (RPs). FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993 | 21 | 10m | |||
4 |
Haddock's Revenge
5-10mins right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is an outcrop with some overhangs. Start at the main corner at the right end. Climb onto the undercut arete on the left and head up and right into the line. Keep left to avoid vegetation until it’s possible to climb the final corner. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993 | 14 | 18m | |||
5 |
Gariwerd Dreaming
Head right from Haddock’s Revenge to the left end of a large crag. Continue along some broken buttresses until the crag steepens into a wall with two prominent crack-lines that are undercut. The left one splits into two thin cracks at about 20m, and the right one turns into a corner. This is the left crack.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1993 | 16 | 40m | |||
6 |
Race Against Time
Climb the crack to the right of Gariwerd Dreaming. FA: Norm Booth & Robert Marshall, 1993 | 15 | 40m | |||
7 |
★ Pockets Of Sunshine
Start 50m to the right of Gariwerd Dreaming. Climb up 2m to an undercut wall then step onto the natural cairn feature and breach the bulge. Climb the wall on pockets until they become slopes then move right and up to a rest. Head up the overhanging crack-line left of the corner and then up a groove in the wall above. Continue up until the groove peters out and move right to a left-trending crack system that leads to the top. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 1993 | 20 | 50m |