Routes as trad in North-West Serra Range

50m left of descent is a wall with two corners. Shallow corner in arête left of chimney and right of another corner.

From block 10m left of Moonshine and on orange wall below overhangs, traverse left to arête and climb it.

Up middle of wall 13m left of Solarplexed and 36m right of Slip, Slop, Slap. Up right over conglomerate bulge, passing right of bulges. Veer back left and up steeply.

Excellent, technical climb; possibly best on cliff. First of two prominent cracks on first wall 40m left of Soul’s Midnight and 22m right of Liquid Sun-shine. Starts as finger-crack.

Stepped and roofed corner 50m left of LS (Didn’t find a climb with these initials. Ed.). Pass right of first roof and left of second one.

Steep and fierce. Up first (of a pair) V-corner on orange wall 7m left of The Long March, then left under overhang and up wall steeply.

From blade of rock against face 25m left of Pandora’s Box, climb arête on left of wall, then crack.

Start 5m right of The Last Crusade at blade of rock supporting cliff. Up to block that forms short right-facing bottomless corner. Over and up.

Up middle of clean wall 4m right of Blowfly, keeping left of weaknesses at top.

Distinctive off-width mentioned in guidebook.

Crack above broken jug 11m right of Lorraine.

Easy crack above acrobatic start 38m right of where cliff breaks down.

Z-shaped corner-crack 10m right of where cliff breaks down.

Pox. Small corner, then step right to arête on first little buttress ‘where the cliff starts to build up again’.

Corner with roof at half-height several easy corners left of start of upper cliff. Left under roof. Crack.

Start: East (left facing the cliff) of 'Green Gap Pinnacle' is a cliff with a long arete forming it\\'s left edge.

1. 50m (15) The arete is gained from the left and followed

2. 50m (15) 'Arete'

3. 50m (15) Climb on the right side of steep upper section, then regain the arete by a crack and follow it again.

Damien / Kevin to provide rotue description

Start: Complete P1 of 'Caveat Emptor'

Good climbing but hard to find your way as the line is very subtle - a big adventure!

Start: Starts about 10m up the gully where the angle eases and a crack/corner system starts on the right wall (facing the cliff).

1. 45m (17) Climb a series of cracks and corners to ledge. Tend up and rightwards (tricky thin slabbing in some sections) up wall to belay in sloping 10m long corner crack with some fixed nuts and a very old big (what used to be red) sling with some small orange roofes above and right and small ledge above and left.

2. 40m (15) up corner then step left onto small ledge. Up and right a little to arete. Up to large corner with attractive orange corner just left of middle and small ledge right of this. Belay near attractive orange corner near center of large corner.

3. 50m (15) Up attractive corner crack then move left and up wall on good horizontal breaks to large ledge (much vegetation!). Either break the belay here or continue up to top by left (corner) or right wall. Belay on summit.

then head left up attractive crack

Start: Complete P1 of \\

1. -m (-) As per 'Sweet Sixteen'

2. 30m (22) Straight up, then traverse right into left facing corner. Traverse led (hard) on lip of overhang to right facing corner. Up this then step right to ledge

3. 50m (15) Up steep face on good holds, easing (this pitch is prominent from the ground).

4. 10m (-) Up easily

Classic outing.

Start: start below the only real line on the wall, 100m left of the right arete (down climb)

1. -m (-) Climb wall to crack through overhang and up flake-crack. Exit right.

2. 24m (-) Step down and traverse right to crack. Up to blocks.

3. 45m (-) Go right 3m, up 10m then veer up left for 28m. Left slab to small tree.

4. 44m (-) Up left to traverse left. Go up from blocks to overhang. Traverse left to big line and up on to left wall.

5. 36m (-) On to left arete of face. Veer up left past big dead tree, then climb corner on left to overhangs. Traverse right and go up to exit right to second dead tree.

6. 44m (-) Crack to cully. Leave it when cracks lead up right wall.

Start: From the small tree 6m up the right arete.

1. -m (-) go left from the ledge, up 6m, back right and up corner through blocks.

2. 36m (-) Up past bush on right, traverse left on to side of arete, diagonally across steep slab and up to small pinnacle.

3. 42m (-) Walk off pinnacle and scramble up until above trees

4. 42m (-) Left into V-gully and traverse on to side of arete. Up face to sloping ledge.

5. 42m (-) Up

The arete and wall on the right end of the cliff above the col behind green gap pinnacle. Start about 40m down and west of the col.

Up crack then scramble up gully.

Start: Crack 2m right of arete (the left of two) at left end of steep orange wall (about 400m left of \"Sweet Sixteen\")

Start: Crack 6m right of arete (the right of two) at left end of steep orange wall (about 400m left of \"Sweet Sixteen\"

1. 40m (14) Crack 4m right of Black Boys, then off-width. Up.

2. 20m (14) Chimney, then scramble up gully

In middle of main orange wall. Up bulges over apparently detached block and sharp flake-crack to V-mantel, then up.

Up corner left of I Can Smell Something Burning, veering right.

Start 4m left of I Can Smell Something Burning at twin-trunked tree. Up twin cracks, bulges, then traverse right to finish up I Can Smell Something Burning.

Left side of black streak at left end of cliff. Right under overhangs and up weakness.

Flake and shallow corner 4m right of Black Thunder.

25m right of Act Of Faith, a cairned crack leads to a chimney-gully.

Shallow crack, groove, face (one BR) right of Literary Lunch.

Line 2m right of Give Me a Break, which curves up left side of face.

Prominent, steep, right-facing corner right of The Secret.

Right of Sugar Tax is an attractive slabby grey wall. Stuffed Kiwi takes diagonal from left to right on this.

Quite good. Cairned crack 4m right of Fallen Angels.

Very thin and sustained face climbing protected only by small wires. Climb slabby black wall just right of Stuffed Kiwi by vague, left facing corner-seam at half-height (about a third of the way along from left end of this wall). Move a little right to finish.

Middle weakness of Sugar Tax wall, starting 2m right of In A Daze For Days. Pass left of bulge 2½m right of triangular block on Sugar Tax. Up past slot. Finish up weakness in middle of wall.

Bulging slabby seam 1½m right of Mirror Man. Finish up right weakness

Right of The Soul Cages is the descent gully. Predatory Pussy is 4m right of this, the left one of two cracks.

Loose. 30m down and round right of Predatory Pussy is a prominent crack on right wall of a recess (a bit like Boomer at Mount Arapiles). Cairned. Climb slabby overlap to ledge. Up crack.

The first section of cliff (the Portiere) rises from the creek-bed. The Edge starts 10m left of the cliff's right end. Right of two curving cracks. Move left through break.

2m left of The Edge, go straight up and through break on right of overhang.

Right-facing flake 2m left of Middle of the Road. Left at overhang, up bulge.

Shallow, left-facing corner 15m left of Peripheral Vision. One BR.

(There are 2 carrots left of this line. Route info unknown.)

Line 5m left of hanging gully. One BR.

Bold. Wall 3m right of Depression Session.

Shallow, left-facing corner left of Wicked Game.

Crack 4m left of Depression Session.

Crack 5m left of 'Promises in Paradise', up smooth rock and left of high overhang.

Committing start. Wall between Dainty Ape and State Of The Art.

Right one of two lines 3m left of Dainty Ape.

Start as for 'State of the Art' and climb left line. Go left of bulge and finish up notch.

Major left-leaning overhung corner left of Jugs Away. Over apex and up crack.

Line on left side of curved, recessed wall left of Daggy Dance.

Wall just left of Sporting Gesture.

Left-leaning diagonal 10m left of Daggy Dance.

Climb crack just right of cave on first wall up from the Portiere. Left to line in main wall. Left and up corner.

Left-leaning line on next wall up left of the Portiere.

Shallow corner 10m left of Quiet Freedom. Face above overlap.

Crack 8m left of Cerveza And Snaggel and just right of little gully. Crack thins and veers right.

Start up Proboscis Prevails. Left and climb thin line (BR).

Corner-crack in gully opposite Quiet Freedom buttress.

Right-leaning diagonal, then groove 30m left of Black Magic.

Black slabby wall at start of face left of Old World, New World. Two BRs.

Diagonal on slabby wall 10m left of Black Magic.

Excellent, left-leaning orange flake on left side of main wall. Up right at steepening to small ledge. Line above, then wall.

Classic. Middle of Cream Wall. Four BRs.

Another classic. Sustained. Wall left of Love At First Bight (two BRs). Hard step right to BR on Love at First Bight. Veer up left.

Tricky start, then easier, then steep wall on left side of Cream Wall.

(BR left of Miracle Mile. Possibly for this climb?)

Diagonal left of middle of Recess Wall (next cliff left of Cream Wall), offering superb Mount Rosea-style climbing. Slab (BR) to horizontal break, then line through two bulges (two PRs). Corner, then straight up.

Last main crack, 20m right of Beady Yellow Eyes. Up (BR) to crack. Crack. Finish left.

From major crack 10m right of Icy Red (on Feather Wedge Wall), climb wall to overlap. Into crack. Finish right

Good face-climbing. From 1m right of Icy Red (Featherwedge Wall), up (two BRs). Right and up crack until it ends. Face, then bulge (BR). Finish just right of major crack.

Right one of twin lines left of middle of uppermost cliff (except for Discarded Dreams area).

Line left of Icy Red.

Flake right of crack with tree at left end of uppermost cliff in area - Featherwedge Wall. Face to over-hang. Finish up right-leading ramp.

1. 20m Thin, right facing corner at right end of Discarded Dreams cliff to large ledge.

2. 25m Up easily from left end of ledge, then veer right up steep corner.

Left leaning hanging flake at right end of front of Discarded Dreams buttress, just left of broken corner.

At the head of the main gully is a prominent block on the ridge between the creek-beds. Reach this by traversing from near the upper end of the cliffs and round to wall on north side. Discarded Dreams is the line of brown flakes on grey rock left of the orange wall.

The obvious line 12m left of Discarded Dreams. Up to steepening then step right and up.