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Mt Coree area
If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas. Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms. For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/ |
Lost Vegas
Long, gently overhanging sport climbs, with a good range of grades on excellent rock. |
Lost Vegas |
Main walls
The carpark and cliff are in Canberra's water catchment, meaning no camping. Please don't disturb the peregrine falcons on the upper cliff, particularly during nesting season: start of August to end of December. *New as of 11 Jun 15: Fallen tree blocking access off Blue Range Road. Adds 5 minutes walk. |
Lost Vegas Main walls |
24
★ Push it real good
A hard start with a long press down crimp move. You know you want it. |
25
★ Misty Business
Strenuous and technical climbing thats harder than it looks. |
23
★ Wedlock
Start up the easy broken corner and then bust out onto the face with some tricky moves to some great finger locks, easier climbing then to the top. |
21
★ Jimmy Jams
Climb the over hanging pillar with a crack either side. Some strenuous moves needing some good technique. |
21
★★ Loosen Up Children
A good route to practice your hand jams between rests. |
23
★★ Journey Agent
Sustained climbing up the face with a perfect finger lock and a hand crack finish. |
22
★★ Plan B
Will get your heart pumping. |
20
Wabi Sabi
If you happened to bring natural pro here's a route to stick it in, finishes up Plan B |
19
★ In Hilti We Trust
Funky arete with technical climbing. Don't climb this during Peregrine nesting season. |
26
★★★ Block Buster
Killer jug slapping up the blocks after a delicate face climb start. Was 25 until a hold broke making the crux alittle longer and harder. |
23
★★ Restless
Start climbing up Cupola till the chimney then head out left into the overhang on jugs. Another stunning route with superb rock and great exposure. |
19
★★★ Cupola
It's got it all: face, crack, chimney, squeeze. A must do route. Best to clean back down the squeeze or to Top Rope use the higher ring out left. Don't pull the loose blocks off the ledge before the chimney onto your belayer, and wear a helmet to belay. |
23
★★★ Spliff Odyssey
One of the best routes at the crag! A long route with a punch at the end. |
21
★★ Sugar Rhyme
A long pitch on awesome rock with lots of bolts. Possible extension at grade 24 to the single lower off 2m above the chain. Take care of the rope length when lowering! |
21
★★ Madame Shelley
Technical start on unique fin crimps. |
17
★ Lady Long Legs
Good little climb with a thoughtful crux. |
15
★ Princess Viva
Nice easy climbing |
30
★★★ Marital Duties
Up slab to tricky roof then a pumpy headwall. |
26
★★ Backyard Blitz
If you can look past the reinforced and too-good-to-be-true holds there is some excellent steep cranking to be had. Start at the tree stump. |
29
★★★ Her
An incredible route through the steep wall up high. Can be finished at the no hands rest half way at grade 22. |
29
★★ American Psycho
The carpark and cliff are in Canberra's water catchment, meaning no camping. Please don't disturb the peregrine falcons on the upper cliff, particularly during nesting season: start of August to end of December. *New as of 11 Jun 15: Fallen tree blocking access off Blue Range Road. Adds 5 minutes walk. |
22
★★ Pas de Magie
Start as for Magic Mushroom but continue straight up. |
26
★★ Magic Mushroom
Funk your way up the chimney to ledge passing halfway anchor and then bust right on some great moves up high. |
Project Papillon
Open project. Up the seam |
25
★★ Vikings
Excellent sustained climbing on a slightly overhanging face. A bit soft for the grade and good for doing training laps. |
29
★★★ Valhalla
Climb Vikings and continue to a no hands rest at the break. Make your way through the undercut bulge and blast up the centre of the headwall. |
29
★★ Blood Eagle
Start as for Vikings. From Vikings anchor, climb to break and up two bolts. From here take the right line of bolts. Finish as for Flirtation. |
21
Shadow Trick
Tricky moves through the overlap leads to much easier climbing |
28
★★★ Flirtation
Great route, great position. Access via the rungs to chains. Best to belay from ground, able to lower off with 60m rope on stretch - tie a knot. |
28
★★ Flirthalla
Linkup. Climb the first crux of Flirtation, traverse across Blood Eagle into Valhalla and continue up that. |
27
★★★ Indecent Exposure
Tricky move to start then up blocks. Great bouldery moves up the arete on flakes and crimps in an exposed position. |
The following climbs are around the arête at the right hand end of the of the wall on a raised ledge
The following climbs are around the arête at the right hand end of the of the wall on a raised ledge |
23
★★★ Murder Weapon
Up to the slopy ledge then swing out and climb the sustained face on stella rock to the top. |
24
★★ Jingle Jangle
A punchy start that leads to easier climbing. Go for the on-sight! |
19
★ Flutter
Learn to jam the start and stop whining its too hard. Gets much easier after the second bolt. |
20
★ Aces High
Good climbing on some great rock. Don't mind the halfway ledge. |
Lost Vegas |
Little corner and face
Waiting for some new routes. |
Broken buttress
Top left wall, with a small cave on the left side. Some unhappy peregrine falcons if you get too close. |
Lost Vegas Broken buttress |
16
★★ Where There's a Will, There's a Way
The line of weakness left of Edge Lane. Traverse crack and up overhang to top out on face. |
19
★★ Edge Lane
Directly up the thin face to the right of Where there's a Will. Thin slab and onto a pillar, then out of an overhang to top out. Ring bolts 4m right and below Where there's a Will. Ring bolts at bottom belay. |
Hollywood
Steep, hard and short. |
Hollywood |
20
★ Leisuremaster
Steep jugs up the arete. Starts from a rock pile, and traverses right under the lip to the anchors. |
25
★ The 12th Monkey
Start marked. A hard move to start, a fun traverse out right then up the corner to the chains. |
27
27
If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas. Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms. For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/ |
29
★★ Vicious
If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas. Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms. For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/ |
29
★★★ Get Ballistic
Totally awesome. Overhangs 50 degrees. |
27
★★ Head on a Stick
Crimps to a dyno. |
24
Head on a Pretzel
If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas. Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms. For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/ |
27
★★ Spelunkin' Duncan And The Exploding Pretzel Of Doom
Another fun boulder-route hybrid. Underneath and to the left of 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy' is an obvious low jug rail, a metre or so left of this is a big two-handed flat hold and there's not really anything further left. Sit start boulder on this flat hold with your feet on the jug rail, climb feet first into the jugs and do some fun crimpy steep moves from the jug rail up into the start holds of 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy' and then finish up this route without escaping too far right into the ledges where you can rest, just power straight up past the bolts and to the chains above as per 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy'. The boulder on its own finishing on the ledges out to the right is perhaps V6 and very fun and worthwhile on its own despite being a bit lowball at the start. Linking into the route above makes the crux of that route feel substantially harder and a great power endurance route overall. Start tied into a rope with the first draw clipped and one pad under the crux of the boulder and it is a nice and safe little route. Enjoy! |
23
★★ Bombs Away Pretzel Boy
Technical, steep and classy. Crux getting onto the wall. |
25
★ Brokenwood Cricket Pitch
Originally 23 but now 25 with the loss of a flake. |
22
★ Born to Fade
Classic little warm up, harder now a hold has broken. |
22
★ Born to be flat
Link up of born to fade and flat head. Climb up born to fade for 3 bolts then continue up flat head clipping it's last bolt and chains. |
21
★ Flat Head
Start at The Crack and take the left arete. |
22
The Crack
Natural gear - very technical. |
26
★★ Action Satisfaction
The most open handed of the 26's at Hollywood. Between The Crack and Weazels Ripped My Flesh. |
26
★★★ Weazels Ripped My Flesh
Amazing dynamic climbing. It's on from the get go. |
28
★★ Revenge Of The Sit
A bit of a unique boulder-route hybrid that makes for a great endurance route at a usually short and burly crag. Start on the good holds at the base of 'Weasels Ripped My Flesh' and traverse the sloper rail rightwards, at the good holds at the start of 'Right Here Right Now' you do a hard sequence to drop down and right a few moves to then come back up into the start of '200 Motels' and the other routes that start here. Continue up 'Return Of The Real' all the way to its anchors. The best way to do this is to start tied in and ready to lead and have your belayer walk the rope along with you until you clip the first bolt and then climb on as usual. A single crash mat protecting the crux of the boulder is sufficient to make this boulder-route safe and enjoyable. It's different, it's neither a route nor a boulder, but it IS really fun climbing - have a go! The traverse on its own finishing at the jugs at the first bolt is around V7. Starting at the jugs halfway through the traverse is about V6 and finishing up 'Return Of The Real' from here is about 27. A much harder version finishing up '200 Motels' would add 1 or 2 grades to that route. |
28
★ Sinister Footwear
Very bouldery and dynamic. |
27
Nikita
If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas. Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms. For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/ |
28
★★ Alien Blueprint
Slopey crux to excellent finish. |
Around the corner on the more vertical wall
Around the corner on the more vertical wall |
26
★★ Right Here Right Now
Superb arete and roof. Crimpy number. |
25
★★ 200 Right Here
Linkup. Start up 200 Motels and traverse at the break into the top of Right Here Right Now. An extended draw on the third bolt of 200 Motels protects the traverse. |
29
★★★ 200 Motels
Very sustained and pumpy until the last move. Was 31, but a new sequence was found. A great route and surprising long for the short crag. |
27
★★ Ice
One of the best. Hard for the grade and thin. A number of holds have come off since the first ascent. |
24
★★ Return of The Real
Technical and thin. Start up Ice and traverse right to Chilled Eyeball(s). |
Starting on the boulders
Starting on the boulders |
20
★ Chilled Left Eyeball
A warm up on the left. |
17
★ Chilled Right Eyeball
Warm up on the right, to a shared lower-off. |
14
Unstable Ally
Start on the boulder and up short arete to chains |
10
Flake Crack
Up short corner. Shares chains with Unstable Ally |
No idea where this one is jammed in
No idea where this one is jammed in |
30
Call It 29
If you have benefited from climbing access and infrastructure in the ACT, please consider joining the Canberra Climbing Association (CCA). The CCA spends considerable behind-the-scenes time and effort managing access for the climbing community to ACT climbing areas. Membership is inexpensive and provides a great way to keep up-to-date with access issues, codes of conduct and general goings on in the ACT climbing community. Membership also provides discounts for local outdoor retail and climbing gyms. For CCA details visit: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/ |
Mount Coree
For those who want a break from granite, and to do some proper sport climbing to boot, Mount Coree offers a lot of fun. It once apparently boasted a chalet/bakery, which now serves only to confuse. |
Mount Coree |
Pretty Gully, Pretty Backside
faces a variety of directions, primarily east and west |
Mount Coree Pretty Gully, Pretty Backside |
Pretty Back Side |
15
★ Beck
A nice line rising leftwards from the left gully. 2nd bolt is loose (Mar18), bring a spanner. |
15
★ Gunvald
One metre left of Hirdwall ... climbing toward the front of the blunt "backside" |
15
★ Hirdwall
One metre left of School Girl Fantasies. Beautiful clean rock on this one. |
15
★ School Girl Fantasies
A pleasant route, with the crux being a slightly blanker section then up through to fourth class territory before the chains. Bolts a bit rusted but still in good nick. |
13
★ King Cup No 1
A lovely little ramble, with the first bolt being in good position if you wish to start straight underneath it in the gully, or giving a good little runout if you start at the bottom of the cliff. Once you've passed the last bolt it's fourth class territory to the chains. |
15
★ Brillo Pad
Fairly easy lower down, the crux is to find the point in the overlap at which you step over onto the arete. |
18
★★ Super Discount
The crux of this route is just above the first bolt, after which the rest will feel quite easy! The hard moves through the roof are above the indicated grade; or you can use the fairly obvious overlap lower down and climb up the arete to get to the fourth bolt. |
17
8 Items or Less
A rather odd climb - some quite easy moves up to the first bolt, which continue up to the second, before which the climber is within ground fall territory. Joins up with 'Super Discount' after the third bolt. Similar to Super Discount, if you choose to go through the roof, expect this to be quite hard for the grade. However the smarter move would seem to be trending left to get around the arete... |
17
★ Femeture Definitive
An interesting climb, with reasonable moves down low turning into a heinous crux just above the third bolt. One for the tall climbers, or shorter people willing to dyno. |
Pretty Gully Proper |
17
★ Raining Pleasure
The Coree Summit Trail is open to vehicles (as of 10th Dec 2022). Curries and Two Sticks Road open, Pabral Road (see below). -- The ACT Parks and Conservation Service (PCS) and NSW Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) have identified the ongoing deterioration of Pabral Road and the inherent safety risks presented to users during wet conditions given the slippery clay-based nature of this road. This culminated in $50K worth of maintenance work in 2014/15 and in 2016/17 Pabral Rd was closed for approximately 6 months due to the prolonged wet period and associated road degradation and safety issues. As you would be aware, these trails are used by the public, but they are primarily maintained as fire trails during the fire season, and maintained to a standard to also minimise sediment channelling into the Lower Cotter Catchment and subsequently the Cotter Dam. With the above in mind, PCS and NPWS propose an annual seasonal closure of Pabral Rd between 1st June – 31st August via existing gates at the top and bottom of this road. Pabral Road will also be temporarily closed outside this period if deemed necessary due to safety or vehicular access causing unacceptable damage to the road surface. In most cases, the adjacent Curries Road will be open and offers an alternative route to Brindabella NP and Two Sticks Rd. In particularly wet periods, a gate will close access to both tracks. Alternative access during these periods will be by Two Sticks Rd (via Brindabella or Blue Range Rds). Road closures will be signposted on site, and conveyed through Transport Canberra and City Services website - http://www.tccs.act.gov.au/roads-paths/act_public_road_closures or Access Canberra 12 22 81. |
22
★ Memory Relapse
The Coree Summit Trail is open to vehicles (as of 10th Dec 2022). Curries and Two Sticks Road open, Pabral Road (see below). -- The ACT Parks and Conservation Service (PCS) and NSW Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) have identified the ongoing deterioration of Pabral Road and the inherent safety risks presented to users during wet conditions given the slippery clay-based nature of this road. This culminated in $50K worth of maintenance work in 2014/15 and in 2016/17 Pabral Rd was closed for approximately 6 months due to the prolonged wet period and associated road degradation and safety issues. As you would be aware, these trails are used by the public, but they are primarily maintained as fire trails during the fire season, and maintained to a standard to also minimise sediment channelling into the Lower Cotter Catchment and subsequently the Cotter Dam. With the above in mind, PCS and NPWS propose an annual seasonal closure of Pabral Rd between 1st June – 31st August via existing gates at the top and bottom of this road. Pabral Road will also be temporarily closed outside this period if deemed necessary due to safety or vehicular access causing unacceptable damage to the road surface. In most cases, the adjacent Curries Road will be open and offers an alternative route to Brindabella NP and Two Sticks Rd. In particularly wet periods, a gate will close access to both tracks. Alternative access during these periods will be by Two Sticks Rd (via Brindabella or Blue Range Rds). Road closures will be signposted on site, and conveyed through Transport Canberra and City Services website - http://www.tccs.act.gov.au/roads-paths/act_public_road_closures or Access Canberra 12 22 81. |
10
Fake News
|
12
★★ Godisgris
To the right of Fake News around the corner on the same chunk of rock. |
24
★★ Shhh...
The Coree Summit Trail is open to vehicles (as of 10th Dec 2022). Curries and Two Sticks Road open, Pabral Road (see below). -- The ACT Parks and Conservation Service (PCS) and NSW Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) have identified the ongoing deterioration of Pabral Road and the inherent safety risks presented to users during wet conditions given the slippery clay-based nature of this road. This culminated in $50K worth of maintenance work in 2014/15 and in 2016/17 Pabral Rd was closed for approximately 6 months due to the prolonged wet period and associated road degradation and safety issues. As you would be aware, these trails are used by the public, but they are primarily maintained as fire trails during the fire season, and maintained to a standard to also minimise sediment channelling into the Lower Cotter Catchment and subsequently the Cotter Dam. With the above in mind, PCS and NPWS propose an annual seasonal closure of Pabral Rd between 1st June – 31st August via existing gates at the top and bottom of this road. Pabral Road will also be temporarily closed outside this period if deemed necessary due to safety or vehicular access causing unacceptable damage to the road surface. In most cases, the adjacent Curries Road will be open and offers an alternative route to Brindabella NP and Two Sticks Rd. In particularly wet periods, a gate will close access to both tracks. Alternative access during these periods will be by Two Sticks Rd (via Brindabella or Blue Range Rds). Road closures will be signposted on site, and conveyed through Transport Canberra and City Services website - http://www.tccs.act.gov.au/roads-paths/act_public_road_closures or Access Canberra 12 22 81. |
Quintessence
Open project, right of 'Shhh...'. |
18
Meet Her at the Love Parade
Shares chains with 'Shhh...'. |
8
★ Trumpian Psychology
The Coree Summit Trail is open to vehicles (as of 10th Dec 2022). Curries and Two Sticks Road open, Pabral Road (see below). -- The ACT Parks and Conservation Service (PCS) and NSW Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) have identified the ongoing deterioration of Pabral Road and the inherent safety risks presented to users during wet conditions given the slippery clay-based nature of this road. This culminated in $50K worth of maintenance work in 2014/15 and in 2016/17 Pabral Rd was closed for approximately 6 months due to the prolonged wet period and associated road degradation and safety issues. As you would be aware, these trails are used by the public, but they are primarily maintained as fire trails during the fire season, and maintained to a standard to also minimise sediment channelling into the Lower Cotter Catchment and subsequently the Cotter Dam. With the above in mind, PCS and NPWS propose an annual seasonal closure of Pabral Rd between 1st June – 31st August via existing gates at the top and bottom of this road. Pabral Road will also be temporarily closed outside this period if deemed necessary due to safety or vehicular access causing unacceptable damage to the road surface. In most cases, the adjacent Curries Road will be open and offers an alternative route to Brindabella NP and Two Sticks Rd. In particularly wet periods, a gate will close access to both tracks. Alternative access during these periods will be by Two Sticks Rd (via Brindabella or Blue Range Rds). Road closures will be signposted on site, and conveyed through Transport Canberra and City Services website - http://www.tccs.act.gov.au/roads-paths/act_public_road_closures or Access Canberra 12 22 81. |
12
★ Alternative Facts
Rising out of the bushes on the wall below 'Meet Her at the Love Parade'. A great first lead. |
Mount Coree |
Wind Wall
This is the main wall at Coree with the highest concentration of routes. It also has the easiest access - a big 20m from the car. The wall faces north, but stays shady until about 9 AM in summer. |