Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Stonehenge Western Cluster Central Cluster Warm-up Boulder | |||||
VB | CWu4
Sit start on first small block around the corner of farthest left side of block/slab finishing up the left slab. | 3m | |||
VB | CWu5
Start as for CWu4 traverse right and finish up CWu1, avoid the first small loose flake. | 5m | |||
VB | CWu2
Sit start on wedges right side of main bloc, traverse left via the break to the far left of the slab, ascend left side of the slab | 7m | |||
VB | CWu1
Sit start on wedges right side of the main bloc, trend leftwards and up via crack system +/- flake. Take care the large flake is loose but feels secure, the smaller one to the left is not safe, avoid or remove. | 4m | |||
Stonehenge Western Cluster The Gents Boulder | |||||
VB | ★ C24 Arc
Back of boulder which houses C2-4. Traverse the low angle slab and break in either direction. | 8m | |||
VB | ★ C24 Arc Mantle #1
Climb the C24 Arc from either direction, mantle the top block front-on from the apex. Mark your footholds as you will reverse to get back down, reverse whale if you have to. | 5m | |||
VB | ★ C24 Arc Mantle #2
Climb the arc from either direction, mantle the slab when you reach the good flakes/edges on the right hand side of the arc. | 5m | |||
VB | ★ C24 Arc Mantle #3
Climb the arc from either direction, mantle the top bloc from the good holds on the highest point with your feet in the flake system of C24 Arc Mantle #2. | 5m | |||
Stonehenge South East Cluster Salisbury Common | |||||
VB | ★ VB-Slab-6
Start left hand in U shaped smiley and up. | 3m | |||
VB | ★ VB-Slab-5
Start right hand in U shaped smiley in middle of low angle slab and up, definitive VB. | 3m | |||
VB | ★ Vb-Slab-4
About a metre right of the lower part of the rib, use the side pull feature to mantle the slab. Quite tough at the grade, just wanted the complete set of greens here, really nice. | 3m | |||
VB | ★ VB-Slab-3
Mantle right side of scoopy slab and up via the rib. | 3m | |||
VB | ★ VB-Slab-2
Press, mantle and up centre of the scoopy slab, easier than VB-Slab-1. | 3m | |||
VB | ★ VB-Slab-1
Right of S4; Left side of slab plus crimp finishing up the right side of the featured arete, hard for the grade. | 3m | |||
Stonehenge Central boulders Salisbury Hot! Boulders | |||||
VB | ★★★ Quick Lap
Starting on the lowest angle slab, traverse around the entire smaller Salisbury Hot! boulder in either direction then finish up and over it's ridge. | 11m | |||
VB | ★ One Hot Salisbury!
Sit start and up the the "crack" inner right aspect of the smaller Salisbury Hot! boulder, job done. | 1m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster Cliffhanger boulder | |||||
VB | Junior Burger
Climbs the short very blunt arete/rib straight up from the rabbit hole right opposite the main slab area. | 3m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster The Wave Boulder | |||||
VB | ★ NE21 Descent Slab
Low angle slab with nice crimps and friendly round top out far left of the baddie that is NE21! Get it dialed both directions making a decent option for descent, awkward landing, be careful. | 4m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster Twin Boulders | |||||
VB | ★★ Smaller Twin Descent Route Left
Sit start on the step far left of the narrow section of slab and up to top on that aspect of the boulder. | 3m | |||
VB | Smaller Twin Descent Route Right
Sit start on the step far left of the narrow section of slab, move right and up to top. | 3m | |||
VB | Twin Slab 1
Left side of the low angle slab on the far right of the larger twin. Also the easiest descent of the bloc. | 7m | |||
VB | Twin Slab 2
Centre of the low angle slab on the far right of the larger twin. | 7m | |||
VB | Twin Slab 3
Right side of the low angle slab on the far right of the larger twin. | 7m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster Thorn Enterprises | |||||
VB | Thorn's Slab
Far end of Thorn Enterprises bloc which houses NE19&NE20, low angle slab, crux low, then sprint to top and get out of there descending via the very easy slab on the other side. | 18m | |||
Dangars Gorge Flaky Buttress | |||||
8 | Fairy Choss
Start: The corner 30m right of Mystery Achievement.
FA: J.Lattanzio & E.Sharp, 1980 | 60m, 2 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Moonscape area | |||||
VB | ★ Cresent moon
Sit start and easy traverse left | 3m | |||
VB | Crater rim
Easy warmup, up rail and rock over | 2m | |||
VB | Cracktacular
Sit start in the mud or squat if you prefer. Up corner crack various features along the way. | 3m | |||
VB | Choose Your Own Chimney
Stand start on one of Gollum’s many faces & chimney & bridge your way to freedom while doing your best Gollum impersonation. | 3m | |||
VB | ★★ Moon ray
Behind 'Gamma ray', up the right side of the scallop thingo | 3m | |||
VB | Chimney Sweeper
Pick a side & press yourself up and out. | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Scultpure garden | |||||
VB | ★★ Look ma no hands
This easy warm up is the usual descent off the back. A nice no hands slab balance problem. | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders The holy land | |||||
VB | ★ Round rail
Up left on rounded rail | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Water tunnel area | |||||
VB | ★ Bren in Boots the first
Very short layback crack, (avoid jug on the right if you want) | 2m | |||
VB | Ben in Boots the second
Jug start, up and then along the sloper lip til your are bored and then mantle | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Car Park Boulder | |||||
8 | Pink Freud | 10m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Roadblock Area | |||||
8 | Piglet
Start: The edge of the Chimney/Passageway. Layback the chimney and on up to top. FA: Brian Cork, 1994 | 10m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Powers creek junction Saw cut | |||||
VB | ★ Saw cut
FA: Brendan Heywood, 17 Apr 2016 | 1m | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Persian Carpets The Carpet | |||||
8 | Use Your Face as an Ashtray
Start: Some 30m left of ‘Deceit’ on terrace.
FA: Brian Birchall & beginners, 1983 | 50m, 2 | |||
Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Three Sisters East Gully | |||||
8 | Industrial Experience
As you scramble into the head of the gully, there is a short, easy, wide crack on the large boulder on your left.
FA: Simon Gay & Al Stephens, 1984 | 10m | |||
Bakers Creek Waterfall climbing | |||||
8 | Nitrocide.
Start: As for Hydrocide. 40m. Straight up the orner/gully. FA: B.Harden, G.Hindmarsh & D.McLean, 1964 | 40m | |||
Wollomombi Falls | |||||
8 | Dono Dedit
Start: There are slabs opposite the Wollomombi Falls. There is a chimney left around from the slabs. 16m. Start in the chimney, straight up for 13m., then traverse left for 3m. Walk round to the bottom. FA: N.Beynon & J.Street, 1969 | 16m | |||
Cathedral Rock National Park Boon Docks Noah's Ark | |||||
VB | Baby Steps 1
Easy slab about 10m right of Slab-ete. Left. | ||||
VB | Baby Steps 2
Easy slab about 10m right of Slab-ete. Middle. | ||||
VB | Baby Steps 3
Easy slab about 10m right of Slab-ete. Right. | ||||
Ebor Gorge Fifth Breakaway | |||||
8 | Elbow Twister
Around left and uphill from Inspiration Point. The obvious rightward leaning crack. A good one for the kids.
FA: Richard Curtis, Vaughan Curtis & John Oddie, 1995 | 15m | |||
Ebor Gorge Sixth Breakaway | |||||
8 | Arbor
Start: A channel disguised by trees at the left hand end of the breakaway. Up channel. FA: Richard Curtis (solo), 1977 | 15m | |||
Mt Yarrowyck Car Park Boulders Actively Eroding Boulder | |||||
VB | ★ Jugs and cups
A juggy stair case, quite a good kids intro problem | 3m | |||
VB | Jam Slam
A few jams to the top, up and over to finish on the jugs top right | ||||
Mt Yarrowyck Car Park Boulders Fully Cracked | |||||
VB | ★ Fully cracked warmup
Right side of the crack, pretty easy up | ||||
Mt Yarrowyck Upper Lost Lower slabs | |||||
VB | ★★ Jug of VB
Possibly the juggiest holds ever seen on yarrowyck granite. If only this was a route and if only they stayed on. Pull down not out! | 2m | |||
Mt Yarrowyck Upper Lost Blacksnake corner | |||||
VB | ★★ Easy crack
| 3m | |||
VB | Warming on a cool night
| 2m | |||
Mt Yarrowyck The upper climbing areas Falcon Bluff | |||||
8 | Fibreglass Man
Start: Approx. 20m right of Maybe on the easy section of cliff. Slab leading to grooves. Up slabs to small groove, then up this and continue to top. FA: Al Stephens, L.Stephens & C.Collins, 1976 | 30m | |||
Mt Yarrowyck The upper climbing areas The Central Bluff | |||||
8 | Greg's Groove
Start: 10m. right of Eff. A short wall/groove. Some people will do anything to get their name in a guide book. 10m. Up the wall/groove. FA: G.Retallack & Jill Kelman, 1975 | 10m | |||
Mt Yarrowyck The upper climbing areas Icefields | |||||
8 | Back to the womb
A speleological encounter of the squeeze kind Start: Around the corner from "Raspberry Jam" Easy crack/face for about 3m then 5m up chimney, the first move once in chimney is the crux if you're over 5'. FA: Silas Darnell, 1997 | 8m | |||
8 | Raspberry Jam
Start: At the extreme left end of the Icefield, a large block leans up against the main face providing a low-angled corner crack. Everyone does this one. Up the crack. FA: R.Dixon & I.Craven, 1972 | 15m | |||
Kwiamble National Park MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach The Beach area | |||||
VB | ★ Top rails
Fun little top out from the slab | 3m | |||
VB | ★ Wasp groove
A fun highball slab | 6m | |||
Kwiamble National Park MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge The warmup gym | |||||
VB | Ramp
| 3m | |||
VB | Offwidth
| 3m | |||
Kwiamble National Park MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge The EM Slab | |||||
VB | Top A
Jug rails | 3m | |||
VB | Top B
More jug rails | 3m | |||
Kwiamble National Park MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge The golden wall | |||||
VB | ★ The golden key
Up the polished edge of the free standing nugget at the right end | 3m | |||
Bendemeer Bendemeer Common Creek Boulders Viewing flatform | |||||
VB | Blackberry hold
Set: Steve Brown, Apr 2016 FA: Steve Brown, 17 Apr 2016 | 2m | |||
Bendemeer 'Jaru' Split Personality | |||||
VB | E
Easy way on-off | 3m | |||
Bendemeer The Deep Hole Crystal Castle un montón de musgo | |||||
VB | Stick fight
South face of the boulder, sit start avoiding using mantle too much. Set: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015 | 3m | |||
VB | ★ the lobsters claw
On the north side of the boulder easy slab face Set: Sam Lobsey, 15 Nov 2015 FA: Sam Lobsey, 15 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
VB | ★ Free range crustacean
Traverse from the start of the lobsters claw right to the base of the crack and up Set: Deon Heemskerk, 15 Nov 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk & Sam Lobsey, 15 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
VB | Free range crustacean alterniative
Same traverse start but use feet only on left hand side of crack on the way up. Set: Tiarni Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015 FA: Tiarni Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
Bendemeer The Deep Hole Crystal Castle Diamond in the moss | |||||
VB | ★ two step
Super easy little line with plenty of features, sit start if you want. Set: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
VB | Beginners revenge
South side of boulder, sit start. Set: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
Bendemeer The Deep Hole Crystal Castle The Draw Bridge | |||||
VB | Front door
Easy slab face with plenty of features, also the easiest point of existing the boulder. Set: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
Bendemeer The Deep Hole Crystal Castle Crystal Tower | |||||
VB | Easy step | 3m | |||
Bendemeer The Deep Hole Crystal Castle Poetic Tragedy | |||||
VB | ★ Jabberwocky traverse L-R
Sit start on the little boulder in front, move along the to the obvious step like feature. Set: Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
VB | Jabberwocky traverse R-L
Use the obvious step up and move along to a sit finish on the small boulder infront Set: Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015 | 2m | |||
Bendemeer The Deep Hole Deep hole island Mozzie Bait | |||||
VB | Fern feet 1
Easy little crimpy slab problem right next to the river. Set: Deon Heemskerk FA: Deon Heemskerk, 6 Oct 2015 | 2m | |||
VB | Fern feet 2
Avoid the crack to the left and just use features on slab face. FA: Deon Heemskerk Set: Deon Heemskerk | 2m | |||
Warrabah national park Muluerindie Sun baked wall | |||||
VB | ★★ Sun kissed
Giant fun steps, great kids problem FA: Brendan Heywood, 19 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
Lake Copeton CC's Monolith | |||||
VB | ★★★ Central Waterfall Slab
Scramble/solo via pockets and edges at the cruxes. | 15m | |||
Lake Copeton CC's Monolith Money | |||||
VB | Gully
Start as for Ramp but climb the gully direct instead of veering left. | 3m | |||
Lake Copeton CC's Hemisphere Area Hemisphere Boulder | |||||
VB | ★★★ Leafy Gully
Right of two gullies farthest left of Hemisphere Boulder. | 5m | |||
VB | ★★ Flake Slab
Front right face of Hemisphere Boulder direct utilising large flakes and crimps to mantle the slab. | 3m | |||
VB | ★★ Flake System
Start as for Flake Slab then traverse left for a meter or two along the thin ramp topping out via the good square flake/edge. | 4m | |||
Lake Copeton CC's Hemisphere Area Cliff | |||||
VB | Western High Traverse RL
Western slabby aspect of Cliff right to left. | 4m | |||
VB | ★ Western High Traverse LRL
Western slabby aspect of Cliff left to right and back again, crux is down climbing the start. | 8m | |||
Lake Copeton CC's Hemisphere Area Little Boulder | |||||
VB | Hueco
To top at the hueco via the crack and mini-arere. | 2m | |||
VB | Slab
Bulging slab half a meter or so left of Hueco still on the Western aspect. | 2m | |||
Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Westworld Upper Aviery Carrot | |||||
VB | C1.1
Short wall back of boulder starting left of tree. | 3m | |||
Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Westworld Upper Aviery Catwalk Trailside Little Piggies | |||||
VB | LPg1.1
Sit start to LPg 1.1 from the low prow. | 2m | |||
VB | LPg2.1
Sit start to LPg2 from the low prow. | 2m | |||
VB | LPg3.1
Sit start to LPg3 from the low prow. | 2m | |||
VB | LPg4
Slab left of the groove. | 1m | |||
VB | LPg5.1
Sit start for LPg5 from the low prow. | 2m | |||
VB | LPg8
Start LPg1 finish LPg3, ramp to groove. | 2m | |||
VB | LPg10
Start LPg3 move right and up LPg1, groove to ramp. | 2m | |||
VB | LPg11
LPg5 to LPg1, scoop to ramp. | 3m | |||
Lake Copeton Sepoy Sector Gwidir River Conservation Area Westworld Lower Aviery Slab Edge Slab D'vine | |||||
VB | SD4
Short wall left of gully. | 3m | |||
VB | SD7
Sit start to SD6 from left arete. | 3m | |||
VB | ★★ SD11
Sit start to SD10. | 3m |