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Red Arm Creek Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Adam Rabjohns Matt Tranter Paul zucchetto Geoff Cooper

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Red Arm Creek 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.512635, 150.209337

summary

Just like the magical Fontainebleau Forest, this area is home to a maze of scattered out crops and small cliffs and visitors can become lost amoungst the valleys and gently rolling countryside. Unfortunately this is where similarity ends - the rock is typical Southern Highlands sandstone with the inherent dangers of snappiness, moss and drop bears. (But at least the chances of finding a Frenchman pooing at the bottom of your route is much reduced.) The area has the potential for loads of routes both trad and bolted. Keep the cracks natural and get exploring the exciting possibilities that lay scattered across the forest.

description

Lots of cliff to develop. A mixture of trad and bolts.

access issues

As per all State Forest areas, a gentle approach is required. Just be cool folks.

approach

Park 2KM up Bunnigalore Road at the BPC sign. for the main crags. Follow the cains / tape left for the South and North Crags and right for the Road side crag.

ethic

Keep the trad routes natural except for lower off at the top if required and bolt the rest.

1.1. Block 1 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.516453, 150.210722

description

A small out crop of rock at the top end of Red Arm. 300 metres off the road

approach

Park at the top of the small rise in the road. Marked with a cairn. Hike directly West for 300 metres or 5 minutes until you hit the outcrop.

descent notes

Follow the track down to the left of the crag looking out. Routes described Left to Right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crocodile

Start at the far right of the crag in the cool little gully. Up the middle of the little wall. Hard start, cool holds to finish.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2017

18 Sport 14m, 6
2 Project MT

Hard pull and then up through great jugs. Finish with a dynamic leap for the top and a bellyflop over the lip to the anchors set back from the edge.

SportProject 12m, 7
3 Project AR

Starting on top of the block. Start up through the ledges into a side pull and some crimps. Lower offs are just over the top.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, Apr 2018

18 Sport 10m, 4
4 Thats Not A Knife

Stem the crack, then move up and out onto the face. Finish at lower offs over the top. Dont be fooled by the double bolts on the face, there is still one more move!

17 Sport 7m, 3
5 This Is A Knife

Fun little climb finishing up on some nice juggy holds. Lower off's are set back over the top.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, Mar 2018

14 Sport 7m, 3
6 Another Shrimp On The Bbq

A fun little climb with plenty of matching on ledges. Finish with bold move to lower offs.

17 Sport 6m, 3

1.2. South Face 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.515617, 150.206847

description

Caution! Crag under development. Some new bolts in this area have not been glued yet. Check route before climbing.

A set of small outcrops. Ordered Right to left looking out.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Who Is Your Daddy & What Does He Do Project

Set: Adam Rabjohns, Nov 2017

UnknownProject
2 Its Show Time Project

Set: Adam Rabjohns, Nov 2017

UnknownProject 4
3 I Need Your Clothes Your Boots & Your Motorcycle

Set: Adam Rabjohns, Nov 2017

20 SportProject 9m, 5
4 Get Down! UnknownProject
5 I'll Be Back

Great trad climbing up this juggy crack. Finish with a lay back and mantle to a great belay position. Take a few no. 3 cams for setting up belay. Watch some of the smaller edges below lay back may still be a little brittle.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, 22 Oct 2017

17 Trad 10m
6 Unbolted Project 05 Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Unbolted Project 06 Sport
8 Project 7 SportProject
9 No pockets in a Shroud.

Tricky start and long reaches up to sloppy break. Clip the bolt hidden over the lip and pull up on to the large ledge with care. Anchors set in alcove above the party ledge.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, Nov 2017

Set: Matt Tranter, Nov 2017

19 SportProject 12m, 4

1.3. North Face Descent Track 0 routes in Unknown

description

North Face Descent Track Location.

1.4. North Face 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.513273, 150.208263

description

This is where you will find the biggest walls in the Red Arm Creek area.

approach

Follow the pink marker tape to the first small rocky outcrop. From here you can see the rest of the markers heading down to the North Face Descent Track. Tend right and down through outcrop to the descent track.

history

Area found by Adam Rabjohns Sept 2017

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unbolted Project 10

Lower offs only- Top Rope Access via belay at cliff tops.

Top rope
2 Unbolted Project 12

Lower offs only- Top Rope Access via belay at cliff tops.

Unknown
3 Unbolted Project 11

Lower offs only- Top Rope Access via belay at cliff tops.

Top rope
4 Unbolted Project 1 Trad
5 Boulevard of Broken Dreams

one missing bolt mid route as of 10/12/2017 Start up the fine finger crack and proceed with care through the bands of weird rock to an easy finish.

Set: Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 2017

19 Sport 20m, 7
6 Unbolted Project 8

Lower offs only- Top Rope Access via belay at cliff tops.

Top rope
7 Unbolted Project 2 Mixed tradProject 1
8 Unbolted Project 3 UnknownProject
9 Unbolted Project 4 UnknownProject
10 Unbolted Project 5 UnknownProject
11 Unbolted Project 6 Trad
12 Unbolted Project 7 Unknown
13 Unbolted Project 13 Unknown
14 Unbolted Project 14 Unknown
15 Unbolted Project 15 Unknown

1.5. Upper Descent Blocks 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.514110, 150.207813

description

20m to the left looking out from the Noth Face descent track. Great warm up/warm down crag. Definatly worth checking out.

history

Found by Matt Tranter Oct 2017

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unbolted Route 02 Unknown
2 Im The Party Pooper

Clip the first two bolts from the ground to avoid swinging. Heel hook for all you are worth. Avoid anything that is not a massive hold (everything else my well give way!) and thug your way to the top. Enjoyable, surprisingly.

Set: Adam Rabjohns

FFA: Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 15 Dec 2017

17 Sport 5m, 4
3 Easy Does It

Easy up the juggy start to finger pockets at the 3rd bolt. Pull up to bolts just over the top.

Set: Adam Rabjohns, Nov 2017

FFA: Nov 2017

FA: Adam Rabjohns, Nov 2017

15 Sport 8m, 4
4 Snooze you Loose.

Left hand crack. Nice and easy but take care with the exit.

14 Trad 14m
5 Total Class is Mr Crass

Straight up the middle using cool fins. Starts with a high right hand to pull onto the wall. Keep off the crack to your left

FA: Matt Tranter, Nov 2017

17 Sport 12m, 5
6 Unbolted Route 03 Unknown
7 Take Care,Mother Bear.

Right hand crack. Pull with difficulty over the mini over hang on snappy holds. Old style wilderness trad route.

17 Trad 14m
8 Whip On Up

Start stemming on wide crack then out and up right-hand wall, slabby final move to bolts

15 Sport 8m, 3

1.6. Roadside. 0 routes in Sector

description

Crag extending along the road side. 100 metres West into the bush from the road. Numerous out crops and boulders.

approach

Park in the pull in at the BFC sign as per Red Arm parking. Walk 100m directly west (Left) of the road. Crag extends to your right for 500 metres.

history

Lots of potential. Keep the trad bolt free and have fun. Will need lots of cleaning, bring your helmet and sense of adventure.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
14 This Is A Knife Sport 7m, 3 1.1. Block 1
Snooze you Loose. Trad 14m 1.5. Upper Descent Blocks
15 Easy Does It Sport 8m, 4 1.5. Upper Descent Blocks
Whip On Up Sport 8m, 3 1.5. Upper Descent Blocks
17 Another Shrimp On The Bbq Sport 6m, 3 1.1. Block 1
Thats Not A Knife Sport 7m, 3 1.1. Block 1
I'll Be Back Trad 10m 1.2. South Face
Im The Party Pooper Sport 5m, 4 1.5. Upper Descent Blocks
Take Care,Mother Bear. Trad 14m 1.5. Upper Descent Blocks
Total Class is Mr Crass Sport 12m, 5 1.5. Upper Descent Blocks
18 Crocodile Sport 14m, 6 1.1. Block 1
Project AR Sport 10m, 4 1.1. Block 1
19 No pockets in a Shroud. SportProject 12m, 4 1.2. South Face
Boulevard of Broken Dreams Sport 20m, 7 1.4. North Face
20 I Need Your Clothes Your Boots & Your Motorcycle SportProject 9m, 5 1.2. South Face
? Project MT SportProject 12m, 7 1.1. Block 1
Get Down! UnknownProject 1.2. South Face
Its Show Time Project UnknownProject 4 1.2. South Face
Project 7 SportProject 1.2. South Face
Unbolted Project 05 Unknown 1.2. South Face
Unbolted Project 06 Sport 1.2. South Face
Who Is Your Daddy & What Does He Do Project UnknownProject 1.2. South Face
Unbolted Project 1 Trad 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 10 Top rope 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 11 Top rope 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 12 Unknown 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 13 Unknown 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 14 Unknown 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 15 Unknown 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 2 Mixed tradProject 1 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 3 UnknownProject 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 4 UnknownProject 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 5 UnknownProject 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 6 Trad 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 7 Unknown 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Project 8 Top rope 1.4. North Face
Unbolted Route 02 Unknown 1.5. Upper Descent Blocks
Unbolted Route 03 Unknown 1.5. Upper Descent Blocks
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