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The Chopping Block Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Matt Tranter Marshall Simon Vaughan Adam Rabjohns Jon S-D Chris A Campbell Gome Marek

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. The Chopping Block 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.554086, 150.227787

description

Small out crop in Belangalo Forest. Nice featured rock, potential for lots more routes scattered in the gorges around the area.

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

inherited from New South Wales and ACT

1.1. Left hand boulders. 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.554004, 150.227702

description

Left hand end of crag when facing rock.

approach

Descent through slot and turn up hill. Routes start 1 metre off track.

descent notes

Walk back down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project MT

Pull on to the party ledge. Up slappy arête with no holds in sight.

22 SportProject 12m, 3
2 Frail Deeds.

FA: Matt Tranter, 16 Nov 2020

19 Trad 10m

1.2. The Chopping Block 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.554091, 150.227791

description

Outcrop of rock in the Belanglo State Forest. Good long route on OK rock and small snappy boulders with face climbing. Routes are described from the far right side of the crag back to the descent path.

approach

Located just outside of Berrima. Exit the Hume Highway at the Belanglo sign. (Cross the highway if coming from Sydney, if you hit Sutton Forrest McDonalds you have gone to far.) Drive past the Gordon VC rest area and onto the good dirt track. (Belanglo Road.) Contine through Forest for a cople of KMs. Once you have passed Dailys Road rest area on the right take the second fire trail on the left. If you reach the Cherry Tree Road and the horse farm you have gone one road to far.

Drive down the fire trail, straight across the first junction and the second juction (Dogleg and a bit bumpy.) Join Cherry Tree Firebreak and wind down this for 5 minutes until you reach the turning circle at the end.

Park here and follow the path and cairns down hill for 2 minues until you reach the cliff. Approach through boulders to the right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bone Machine

Step off the large boulder (or off the ground if you have fingers of steal). Balance up the areve and finish at shared anchors. Short. First route on the small boulder at the bottom of the descent gully

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

17 Sport 8m, 5
2 John Doe

Snappy bottom , up two small ledges to the Gritstone finish. Much harder if you stay out of the crack First route on The Boulder.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

15 Sport 9m, 4
3 Hitching a Ride

One hard move over the lip and it is all over. Bring those large sea gull bashers. Trad crack at the far left end of the Block, next to the descent path.

FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2011

15 Trad 10m
4 Shallow Grave

1m right of the trad crack.Pull over the lip and trend left. The second block. Updated 2017 - harder after a number of key holds pulled off.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

18 Sport 11m, 5
5 A Murder of Crows

Off balance, mean and thugish. use anything you like, twist and turn, pull through the bands, finish at the right hand anchors. Start 1 metre right of Shallow Grave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

18 Sport 10m, 6
6 Burried in a Crack.

As the name suggests, get deep in that crack. Wobble without much protection using both walls and exit to the bolts at the top of the crag. The second trad crack on this face.

FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2000

15 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Unknown 1 Sport 8m
8 The Hatchet

Hard pull from a three finger slot. Up the features to the large ledge. Bouldery and very balancy finish. The last line of bolts on this side of the block.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

22 Sport 12m, 6
9 The Danse Macabre

Hard pull off the big jugs, trend left to a large rest ledge. Two cruxes follow, join the finger pockets and stretch as tall as possible. Shared start with Dodging Bullets.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

22 Sport 12m, 7
10 Dodging Bullets

Nice heaving on big holds to balancy moves to gain stance then some trickiness to triple bolt anchors. Under cut start left hand side of wall facing the gorge

FA: Simon Vaughan

21 Sport 12m
11 Close to the Bone

Heave up jug start then balancy and surprisingly powerful 4 move traverse, then straight up Start as for Dodging Bullets then move right Steep and then balancy climbing on great rock, firction is superb from Autumn onwards

FA: Simon Vaughan

23 Sport 12m
12 One Fatal Blow

Up corner with interest to an airy finish on the headwall In the corner around to the right of the main wall as you face the cliff The corner is hard and 3D to get up and the headwall is steeper than you think

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

20 Sport 12m, 6
13 Project

Probably a batman start to get it done we will see

SportProject
14 Project Matt T

Share the start with the previous climb. Still needs one more bolt to go directly to the lower offs. Going to be really hard as all the holds run out.

Start: 2 metres further right

Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
15 Burried in a Crack. Trad 10m 1.2. The Chopping Block
Hitching a Ride Trad 10m 1.2. The Chopping Block
John Doe Sport 9m, 4 1.2. The Chopping Block
17 Bone Machine Sport 8m, 5 1.2. The Chopping Block
18 A Murder of Crows Sport 10m, 6 1.2. The Chopping Block
Shallow Grave Sport 11m, 5 1.2. The Chopping Block
19 Frail Deeds. Trad 10m 1.1. Left hand boulders.
20 One Fatal Blow Sport 12m, 6 1.2. The Chopping Block
21 Dodging Bullets Sport 12m 1.2. The Chopping Block
22 Project MT SportProject 12m, 3 1.1. Left hand boulders.
The Danse Macabre Sport 12m, 7 1.2. The Chopping Block
The Hatchet Sport 12m, 6 1.2. The Chopping Block
23 Close to the Bone Sport 12m 1.2. The Chopping Block
? Project SportProject 1.2. The Chopping Block
Project Matt T Sport 1.2. The Chopping Block
Unknown 1 Sport 8m 1.2. The Chopping Block
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