A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. 竹帘洞 Bamboo Cave / Cave Entrance / The Pit / 6.2 22 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. 竹帘洞 Bamboo Cave 22 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.759298, 110.509314
summary
Cave climbing on spectacular limestone features. routes stay dry in the heaviest downpour except when its been raining for many days...then it seeps. also good in everblasting sunshine.
description
Most of the routes are located inside a cool cave. The routes are rather adventurous, with lots of dirt and brittle holds. In time this will clean up.
In 2020, this area finally had its full potential realized. During this past summer the cave area became similar to a "home base" for many of the climbing deprived locals. complete with comfortable belay furniture and some permanent quickdraws, the BambooCave now supports more than 20 routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.mid 5.12's.
Wear a helmet when climbing, for best safety practices. Rain tends to weaken limestone, so inevitably during a downpour, you will want to climb at this cave, and such it may have an increased chance of rock breaking.
Standing at the entrance to the cave: YangYang, Chuck Norris, and 3rd dimension are on the left side. Brown Gunk and the Bird are on the right...
access issues
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.
approach
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
左侧 Left Side | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★ 杨杨加油 / Push Push Yang Yang
First route far left side of the cave entrance behind some bamboo. FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 5.10c | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Bamboo Warrior 武士
FA: Jerry zhong, 2020 | 5.10c | 14m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Chuck Norris
inside and starts on a wet slopey ledge. maybe the shortest but most interesting route in the cave FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 5.10a | 11m, 4 | |||||
| 5 |
Bamboo Shoot 竹笋
FA: Jerry zhong, 2020 | 5.7 | 11m, 4 | |||||
| 6 |
Heads or Tails 顾头顾尾
FA: 陈信 | 5.10c | 11m, 4 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Ready Player One 玩家一号
This route starts from the anchor of Heads or Tails and traverses the entire cave roof. There are a couple of no fall zones and there might be some loose rock so be careful with it Set: Xinge, 2021 FFA: Eben Farnworth, 1 Dec | 5.13b | 25m, 13 | |||||
| 8 |
★ Into the 3rd dimension
the simple chimney opposite Chuck Norris. at the top you can walk through a hole and access the anchor of Sturgeon. FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 5.8 | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ 卧虎藏龙 Hidden Dragon
洞穴中央，12a的建议爬法在最后一把翻顶，提前翻顶难度只有11～ —Jerry Set: Jerry zhong, Jul 2020 | 5.12a | 15m, 8 | |||||
The Pit | ||||||||
| 11 |
★★ Sturgeon
starts in the depths of the cave. FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 5.11a | 17m, 9 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Chalky boobs 波霸
The chimney in the middle of the pit. FA: Andrew | 5.9 | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Go hard frenchy
FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 5.8 | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Chinstrap 下巴扣
variation to Frenchy with some body torquing moves. fun and intense. FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 5.10d | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 15 |
Potato Chip 薯片
FA: 七月, 2020 | 9m, 4 | ||||||
| 16 |
★ I'm too sexy
Loose rock?? be careful near the top...an out of control fall may not be good for your cranium. We purposely took the fall several times with no consequesnces but its intimidating and you will definetly be overgripped! HAHAHA FA: Andrew | 5.11b | 20m | |||||
右侧 Right Side | ||||||||
| 18 | 新线 | 5.8 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Brown Gunk / 红土
While entering the cave, the wall on your right has easy climbing off the ground. Begins to the left of the first quickdraw, before traversing right and crossing over Flying The Bird. Stimulating lead for beginners, and excellent warm up route for more experienced climbers. FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 5.10a | 20m, 6 | |||||
| 20 |
★★ Flying the Bird / 我叉
The route starts at the blunt arete on the left side of the gorgeous outside wall. goes straight up then crosses left over Brown Gunk. FA: Andrew Hedesh & Matt Krakowski, 2012 | 5.11c | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 21 |
★ 谁完成都可以 / FA Is For You!
Set: 七月 | 5.11b | 20m, 10 | |||||
| 22 |
★★ 生龙活虎 Move Like a Dragon
Climb up to the ledge for a nice rest with a good view before a committing mid-section and overhung top-out Set: Jerry, 2020 FA: 黄翠, 2020 | 5.11a | 17m, 8 | |||||
| 23 |
★★ 大腿痛 / Big Leg Pain
Set: Jerry, 2020 FA: 阿磊, 2020 | 5.11c | 17m, 9 | |||||
| 24 |
★★ Kneebar 少年 / Junior Kneebar
Start on either Big Leg Pain or Big Thumb and follow the line of draws squeezed in the middle FA: 陈信, 2020 | 5.11d | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 25 |
★★ 大拇指 / Big Thumb
FA: Jerry, 2020 | 5.11c | 16m, 7 | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.7 | Bamboo Shoot 竹笋 | 11m, 4 | |||
| 5.8 | ★★ | Go hard frenchy | 16m, 8 | ||
| ★ | Into the 3rd dimension | 12m, 4 | |||
| 新线 | |||||
| 5.9 | ★★ | Chalky boobs 波霸 | 20m, 8 | ||
| 5.10a | ★★ | Brown Gunk | 20m, 6 | ||
| ★★ | Chuck Norris | 11m, 4 | |||
| 5.10c | ★★ | Bamboo Warrior 武士 | 14m, 5 | ||
| Heads or Tails 顾头顾尾 | 11m, 4 | ||||
| ★★ | 杨杨加油 | 14m, 6 | |||
| 5.10d | ★★ | Chinstrap 下巴扣 | 16m, 8 | ||
| 5.11a | ★★ | Sturgeon | 17m, 9 | ||
| ★★ | 生龙活虎 Move Like a Dragon | 17m, 8 | |||
| 5.11b | ★ | I'm too sexy | 20m | ||
| ★ | 谁完成都可以 | 20m, 10 | |||
| 5.11c | ★★ | Flying the Bird | 25m, 12 | ||
| ★★ | 大拇指 | 16m, 7 | |||
| ★★ | 大腿痛 | 17m, 9 | |||
| 5.11d | ★★ | Kneebar 少年 | 20m, 9 | ||
| 5.12a | ★★ | 卧虎藏龙 Hidden Dragon | 15m, 8 | ||
| 5.13b | ★ | Ready Player One 玩家一号 | 25m, 13 | ||
| ? | Potato Chip 薯片 | 9m, 4 |